Go240Zags

Is that your 1970 240Z in the picture, doesn't look like a 1970 to me, unless someone replaced the rear quarter with a later model due to the fresh air vent being on the side, rather than in the rear hatch like the 1970 model had. Just curious. Bambi, I think he might have been referring to rechroming the center caps, rather than the wheels, as the wheels are obviously on the car and not out being rechromed.

Here's a 240Z listed on eBay with a bit of false advertising. Listed as a 1970, but doesn't have the right hatch vents, console, etc. Also says has factory a/c. Never know what to ask a seller a question about his info so I don't sound preachy. So I just asked if he was sure about the year, and mentioned the hatch vents. We'll see how/if he responds. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4516758604&category=6187

I've been driving myself crazy over the very same situation. I have put together a nice set of early 70-71 four screw SU's, a 260Z N36 manifold and a very early 240Z balance tube without all the extra connections (the original SUs were traded by some previous owner for a pair of Webber downdrafts, yuck). I want to get an F54 block and a P90 or fix up one of my old E31 heads (they've been shaved too much I think, tho). This would make a sort of original, but higher horsepower engine for my 71 Series 1 240Z (built 12/70) (its current motor isn't matching numbers and is pretty tired so its a natural for modification). OR I have a 1983 280ZX turbo (2+2) sitting in my backyard under cover. It is complete except for the turbocharger unit itself. I've talked with people about trading that whole car (exterior and interior need major work) for a NA L28 with the F54 block and finding a P90 and using my carbs. Barring a trade I guess I could keep the turbo motor, get some flat top pistons, sell the EFI and turbo stuff and use the P90A with the hydraulic? lifters. OR Get a T03-04 turbocharger and swapping the motor into my 240Z for a relatively cheap increase in horsepower in a very light car. I've gone back and forth on this for a couple years now. I hate to just leave the carbs on the shelf as it took me awhile to get the setup together and I don't want to part with it. This whole thing is making me nuts. I suppose it just makes more sense to put off engine questions to concentrate on getting the body back in shape, repair rust in floors, under battery, and in rear wheel arch and upgrade suspension, brakes, etc. Of course it all costs money. Time to take a second job I guess.

I'd agree that the valve cover is powder coated, still a nice look and something I'll consider (that must be preservation, rather than restoration), however I'd bet the carbs are still in their natural, but cleaned, state.

That's one clean looking engine bay. I especially like the valve cover's clean, but not polished, look. That's how I'd like my 2400 OHC cover to look. My car will go for period available modifications, such as the spook. Maybe use some more modern Nissan parts for engine mods to keep it in he family line. However, my car is too far gone to restore to factory original so that's never been my goal anyway. If it was in very good or near mint I might consider a real restoration, but as is I could certainly find a near perfect example for a lot less than it would cost (in $s and time) to bring my old beast back to anywhere near original . I do admire anyone is undertaking the task of preserving fine examples of how the Zs look when they left the factory (or how they looked when they hit the dealer's showroom floor).

I received the same type of "PayPal" notice on my computer at work late last night. Funny thing about it was it came to the newspaper's e-mail address which tipped me off right away that it was fake, as my account is only connected to one of my personal e-mail addresss. The second tip off was the fact the website it directs you to does not start with https:, instead it starts with http: I guess that little "s" on the end is what tells you it is their secured site, at least according to PayPal. However, PayPal, eBay and banks don't usually contact you asking to re-afirm your secure information. It's better to go to their site directly the way you normally do to find out any information you need. They already know your secure info, so why would they ask you to confirm it? Unfortunately these "fishing" e-mails work a percentage of the time and good people get ripped off. Vicky I like the exploding computer solution. Oops, I hope Homeland Security isn't watching.

"905 - Monte Carlo red," I think I like the sound of that. More imaginative than just plain old 905 red.

I found a vertical defroster hatch glass at the wreckers for $50 (I had to remove myself). My own fault for the price, it probably would have been cheaper if I hadn't said he had some nice parts on the 1971. I came back for it after waiting a few months and he was telling me how "rare" it was. I would have taken the whole hatch, but it was not the one with vents. Nice to have a spare. Gary

Hey 26th, Here's an eBay auction for a clear hatch glass I thought you might be interested in if you haven't already seen it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4515371292&category=80740

Save it for parts. You could learn a lot from rebuilding, but it would be costly. Kind of looks like mine, well mine's not quite that far gone. .

It's a long story (and longer thread). Was posted elsewhere on here. You might try a search to see if it is still available. Makes for some interesting reading. But it is (or was) a subject for another thread.

You're the one that brought up the prices you've seen for carbon fiber parts elsewhere. So, if others write in with prices on the same parts that you talked about in your thread, such as hoods made of carbon fiber IT IS NOT "OFF TOPIC." Especially if they are half the price you are talking about (refer to your own thread starting first post). http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/carbonfiberhood.html. About your idea to post various carbon fiber parts to have produced, it is a good one and I thank you for starting the thread. Let's just agree to disagree on the attitude thing. I think carbon fiber hoods, rear spoilers, even fender flares are a good idea. How about reproductions of the early, Series 1 and 2 consoles? Door panels and other interior panels would be interesting. Just a few thoughts. Happy New Year!

Yes, the Happiest of New Yearz to All!

Yes, 26th you are being cruel . I look for these ashtrays everytime I see a Series I or early 71 with the console with the ashtray in front of the shifter at the wreckers. I've only found one car locally with that console, but of course the ashtray was gone. I did, however, get the nice verticle line defroster hatch glass (and the console) from it. I don't mind trying to make my own lid and that's why I was bidding on the lidless ashtrays that have been appearing on eBay lately. But with Christmas coming and the money they are going for I've so far resisted getting into a bidding war for an incomplete part. I just figure I need an extra ashtray as a back-up. Two extra ashtrays and I'd probably sell one of the extra Series I consoles I have (adding the ashtray) and make some real money to buy parts I don't have spares or replacements for. Gary

So that's where those ashtrays that were missing their lids on eBay disappeared to. I bought mine on eBay awhile back and had to fix the hinge part on one side of the lid. Glued on small washers and painted them black. Doesn't have a spring, but looks original enough and is tight enough that lid stays up when I want it to. Makes a good coin tray. Does anybody know where I can find a cover and metal ashtray 'snuffer' (metal piece you crush cigarettes out on) for a '71 tray in front of the shift console without coughing up the appropriate lung for an ebay original part? ) mlc240Z, are the snufters from the later models a lot different than the early Series I snufters. I've never checked if they were interchangable (or adaptable) to each other. Just thinking out loud.

I noticed our local "dry goods" store has new Harada power antennas for about $55. Look very similar to the original Z antennas, but use more plastic in the spool/motor area that doesn't show anyway.

What part of the Great White North are you in, BC perhaps? Gary

Datsun 510's came with R160s from same factory as the R180s and R200s in the Zs. I hear lots of the 510 guys do the swap with the Subaru diff and I believe it can be done with the Z, but don't know the details. Try a search on this site. I think the R160 is not a strong as either the 180 or 200. I too would like to see and hear about the results if you do the swap. Lots of Subies in my area, not usually the high end models tho. Gary

I've always had a liking for Glenfiddich and Gelnlivet's a good choice as well. Never had Glenmorangie or Macallan, but sounds worth a try. Gary

Well, as I recall, the last time I was in Jackpot, Nevada (where the seller is located) the drinks were free at Cactus Jacks and the various other casinos around there. Not much else to do but gamble and drink in Jackpot -- at least when I was there. Maybe he needs to sell the mystery wheels and tires for his next stake at the Blackjack table, or maybe it's the one armed bandits. Gary

Doesn't anybody on eBay speak (or write) English any more? In this case if the seller isn't going to put up pictures, he should avoid trying to let his words do the describing.

I live so far out in the boonies, that night is about the only time I can pick up AM. Might be just an Eastern Washington thing. I vote for satellite radio.

Tanny, Thanks for linking that informative article. Your avatar still cracks me up every time I look at it. Gary

I am using the prefab floorpans from Zedfindings. I am not sure, but I've heard the better grade MSA floorpans are from Zedfindings anyway so dealing directly with Charlie Osborne in Canada may be your better deal, at least it was when I checked it out. As far as costs go, I don't know yet. The son of a nearby auto repair shop's owner just got back from WyoTech where he learned welding. He is chomping at the bit for some real world experience and sounds like he'd almost do my floors for free (might be wishful thinking tho). I've seen his custom work on his own rig, so I think he knows what he's doing. The only problem is he may have a job lined up in Portland, OR. and not be available soon. That's why I am asking about best place to buy rocker panels, so if he agrees to do it they'll be ready to weld in too. I've got the rear hatch repair panel as well, and a wheel arch and lower door section, but he says he'd need a tig welder for that (but he has a friend who might...). Gary

I am getting ready to buy some new rocker panels, as I might as well have the old ones replaced when I have my new floors welded in. Anyone with any experience w/ Tabco rocker panel replacements? They're about $40 each, while the Mill Supply ones are about $56 apiece. MSA and Victoria British seem to be about the same price as Mills. Are the Tabco as good of quality? If so why so much less? Just trying to find the best part I can for a price I can afford. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gary