SteveJ

From ZCarDepot.com: You might as well get the other switch. Also fix the wiring before you burn up the car. Vintage Connections has a 6 pin connector that will work.

To piggy back on @Captain Obvious's post... The white/red wire goes to the ignition switch and is connected to the black/white wire coming out of the ignition switch when the key is in the ON position. The black/white wire travels down the dash harness to the engine harness. As you noticed, there are 3 black/white wires at the dash harness/engine harness interface. 6-wire connector - Also has a green/white wire. 4-wire connector 3-wire connector - I believe that is the switched source for the voltage regulator. My 73 has a different harness, so I can't help you with tracking down the connector directly. What you could do is disconnect both the 6-wire and 4-wire connectors. On the engine harness side, measure resistance between the black/white and green/white wires. The black/white that has low resistance (3 ohm or so) with the green/white wire is the one that connects to the ignition switch. Anyway, the black/white wire travels out to the ballast resistor, and there is the green/white wire on the other side of the resistor. (Do you see why I suggested checking for resistance on the engine harness side?) The green/white wire travels to the tachometer and comes out black/white. The black/white wire goes back through the dash harness, to the engine harness, and on to the positive terminal of the coil. I hope this helps.

When I hover over the icon, "jeffsnook recently joined" pops up.

Ha! I've got you beat by a country mile. Before I reinstalled the seats in the 73, I lifted up a mat under the passenger seat and found a 1972 quarter and a 1960 penny. Both were likely there before I bought the car in 1993.

Speaking of comfort, it's good to reduce wind noise. The window channel rubber/felt was in two conditions: missing and rotten. I pulled the window frames out and worked on prepping them for new channel rubber/felt that I purchased from ebay. In case anybody is curious, here is the listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272740934276. Even though the seller is in Thailand, it only took just over 2 weeks to arrive. I can't complain about that. I dug out the rotten channel rubber from the driver side and used a dremel with a wire brush to remove the remaining adhesive. There was more of the rotten channel rubber in the passenger side frame plus some of the thick felt at the bottom of the back part of the channel. There was also more adhesive residue. For that I started with a narrow gasket scraper, and I finished up with the dremel and wire brush. I took measurements of the frame to prep the window channel length and finished up by cleaning out the inside of the frames with denatured alcohol. Tomorrow I will cut the window channel to length, apply a thin coat of adhesive to the frame and work the window channel into place. Here are some before and after photos of cleaning out the old adhesive from the passenger side frame. Before: After:

Wait! There's an end point?

Thanks for sharing that. It's a good thing to add to the memory banks. That's similar to what I dealt with recently. I tuned a friend's 72, set the floats higher, etc., but the car wouldn't run worth a damn. Another friend messed with the dwell, and the car ran better for a short while. The first friend had me check the car again, and I told him it had to be the ignition. When I finally installed the Pertronix, that car ran like a scalded dog. It was another matter of having fixed everything else, what is left to mess with?

RTFM

Yes, I bypassed the resistor in my 260Z that has a ZX distributor. I have done the same in my 73 with a Pertronix, though I haven't fired it up since I put in the Pertronix.

Connect them together.

Fortunately Jim, this will be more of a comfortable Ratsun than a show car.

It's the weekend, so progress was good. I bypassed the electric fuel pump for now. I took off the old hoses in the back and had the wife blast air through the lines in the engine bay. There were no signs of blockages. As a matter of fact, there was still old, stinky gas in the supply line. Then I went to replace the hoses in the engine bay. I noticed a while back that one of the blocks that holds the fuel lines in place was damaged. When I removed the hose from the supply line to the fuel filter, I found this. I'm not sure why someone would cut off the fuel line like that. Anyway, the new fuel hoses are in place. Next up: Get a new battery. Remove the valve cover and pour some oil over the cam. Remove the spark plugs and put some oil in the cylinders. Turn the engine to circulate the oil. Add some gas to the fuel pump, carbs and gas tank. Attempt to start.

It should have, but diodes can fail, or someone could have installed the diode backwards. If you have an ohmmeter, I can tell you how to test the plug later. Right now it's time to work on my car.

Has the alternator ever been changed out for an internally regulated alternator? The lamp (switched) wire can backfeed into the ignition. The solution is to use a diode in the alternator circuit on the appropriate wire to prevent the backfeeding from the alternator to the ignition circuit. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

Short update today. Yesterday I replaced the bad air cylinder on the Quickjack. It was a fairly easy task. Today I drained the gas tank. First I siphoned about 4.5 gallons out via the filler neck. There was some junk in the gas that came out, but not too bad. The gas wasn't too much darker than what you get from the pump. I then deployed the Quickjacks to finish draining the tank via the drainplug. I got another 4.5 gallons that way. There was less junk than I got from siphoning the tank. The gas smelled bad, but again, it wasn't too dark. Tomorrow, I'll blow some compressed air through the hard lines in the fuel system, remove the electric fuel pump in the back, and replace the fuel hoses. They have been on there for over 25 years now.

The full story helps. Bench test per @Dave WM's instructions. Could a previous owner have changed the bulb?

Failed thermistor

I thought things went well tonight. I got the center console prepped and installed. The biggest challenge was trying to figure out how the fuse box lid should be attached to it. Having never seen it attached properly I had to guess. I know I didn't it differently from stock, but I was happy with the result. It looks less redneck than what a previous owner did. With the quick install of the center console, I turned my attention to the seats. I got them in and secured. I couldn't help but just sit in the driver's seat for a little while. I haven't been able to do that for a few years. After enjoying the view and thinking of what is left to do to actually get the car on the road, I finished off the evening holding up the window channel rubber to the frame and putting the steering column cover back on. It's starting to feel like a car again instead of a collection of parts taking up a bay in the garage.

Was the fuse pulled when you tested? The readings sound like it wasn't. Likely, the green wire is the one that goes to the back of the car where the fuel pump would reside. @cgsheen1 was giving you good direction. You can get the inertia switch here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBK4873, but you will probably need to modify it. I bought one, and like the reviewers on Amazon said, the switch is wired to a normally open contact. It should be on a normally closed contact. It wasn't too difficult for me to move the pin, but I'm used to doing things like that. You might want to look around a little more for a green wire with an inline fuse. It may be covered with electrical tape. That is how it was wired from the factory. I'll see what I can find with poking around in the wiring of my car this weekend. I have a sneaking suspicion I know where the wire for the fuel pump is routed in the wiring harness.

Giggity. 😉

I don't think the trim ring was intended for that type switch. Unfortunately the type switch that used the trim ring went NLA many years ago. I last bought one 8 years ago. It was a Beck Arnley 201-1179, and inside the box the switch was bagged with a Nissan part number label. The switch you have should work. It just won't look the same.

"eh" is Canadian for "You know what I mean?"

Can you post some photos?

Today's episode is "While I'm at it..." Since the seats are still out of the car, I figured it would be a good time to replace the center console with one I've had lying about for 8 years or so. I removed the console and removed the ash tray cover. The cover was pretty dirty, so while I'm at it, it would be good to clean it. I transferred the clean cover to the replacement console, and then I proceeded to remove the outer shift boot. Well, it was pretty old, and some of the threads broke. Then I looked at the rubber shift boot. It was torn. While I'm at it, I might as well find the replacement boot I bought many years ago. (Okay, so the wife found it for me. She knows the spare parts room better than I do.) I also found another outer boot during the search. The shifter was pretty sloppy. The bushings were MIA when I bought the car in 93. While I'm at it, I'll find the brass bushings I bought 4 years ago and install them. It only took searching the same places twice to find those. I followed the tech tip on Blue's ( @240260280) page (link below) and used my vice to press in the bushings. I even had Wendy shoot a video of me pressing in the second bushing. Well, I couldn't crank down hard enough with the vice to get the bushings flat enough to fit inside the fork. So I took the shifter to the 20 ton press. THAT got the bushings flat enough. The shifter slop is gone. During all this, I got the drawstring out of the old outer shifter boot and threaded it into the new boot. Tomorrow I will attach the rubber boot to the transmission tunnel, attach the outer shift boot to the center console, and get the center console back in place. If it all goes quickly enough, I might start getting the seats back into the car.

Yes, the fuses are in the same locations. The outer labels on the stock fuse box cover (Acc, Ign, Bat, Ammeter) give the power source.