SteveJ

It won't take too much slack to clear. Your other option is to route the wires to run counterclockwise from the pickup to the grommet.

You can pull some more slack wire into the distributor to clear. Also use some electrical tape to protect the wires more.

I haven't had too many issues with the 280ZX ignition. The Pertronix is one of the lower cost options, provided you have a good 240Z distributor to start with. I have only had it installed for about a year, so no reliability data on the Pertronix, yet. The reviews seem to be mixed to me on the 123. Some people love the adjustable nature of it, but some people have complained about the quality of the distributor caps. (You won't get a good spark with a bad cap.) As far as simple, it's probably easier to install a Pertronix on a distributor on the car than swap in a 280ZX distributor. With regard to the ignition modules, you can keep a couple in the car with a small screwdriver and replace one easily on the side of the road should you ever have a failure. (I only had a bad one on a rebuilt distributor.) If you go with the ZX, consider getting the bearing plate(s) a user listed here. I had a Crane (the cheaper between the two you can use on the Z) in my 240Z that I installed in 1997. It worked for 13 years and died with very little driving. I'm not sure if it was a bad module or dirty optics. I didn't have the drive to dig into the cause. Anyway, you have to mount the module somewhere. The ZX distributor and Pertronix do not require mounting a module somewhere.

The best fluid is one that meets the specifications in the FSM. You don't say if you have a manual or automatic. For the manual, it's oil that meets GL4 specifications. For the automatic it's Dexron.

I am interested.

Per @Patcon's suggestion, here is a video showing how to check the spark: When you add oil to the cylinders, make sure you don't add too much take out all of the spark plugs turn the engine over by hand if you can. Also, considering the time it sat, I hope you did drain the gas tank of the old fuel.

Not surprised about the rocker. I even mentioned having to bend it in my description of tearing down and reassembling the switch: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/. It's toward the end of the post. Now you have a great understanding of how the switch works. Wait until you need to dig into the headlight switch. 🙂

Not sure what you found or who might have said it. putting wires through grommets that are already in place? Not likely. You'll never get the connectors through. Tubing? Well, maybe with this:

Not really.

By the way, if you haven't done so already, go to https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ and download the factory service manual for the 260Z. Yes, your car has been modified, but the FSM will help you identify how it looked from the factory.

The capped off hard line is the return to the tank. The smaller hard line is the tank vent. In stock configuration, it would go to a carbon cannister. The plastic bottle is the vacuum reservoir for the AC. My guess is that the AC has been removed. You may want to consider re-routing the fuel line. It will pick up a lot of heat hanging out over the engine. Of course, the stock fuel rail could pick up plenty of heat from the exhaust manifold. Here's how I routed the fuel lines after I converted the carburetors into throttle bodies.

That's a good observation, @w3wilkes. @DadAndLadZ, you should probably check your fuel pressure. With not having the stock fuel rail, you lack the fuel pressure regulation afforded by the orifice in the return line.

We knew what you meant. I knew the Falkens were smaller than the Radial TAs I pulled off the wheels, and the visual did surprise me at first. However, when I'm behind the wheel with tires that grip well, I don't worry about it in the least. 🙂

I have 195/60 R14 in the Falkens. That would be close to the same size as the 205/50 R15. My car is on the left. It has stock springs and very old struts. Here is more of a side view. Last photo While the gap may seem big, the traction is very good.

I think someone on this forum made an emergency pull for the hood latch that is still accessed from below but easier than using a pry bar. Here's one thread where @beandip and @Bonzi Lon describe their emergency release: In post #11 on this thread @mjr45 describes how he fashioned an emergency release.

While the Radial TAs are available in that size, they really aren't performance tires.

I run the Falken Azenis RT615K+ in 14" on my 240Z. https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt615k-tire There is also the Azenis RT660. https://www.falkentire.com/tires/passenger-car-tires/azenis-rt660-tire Both are available as 205/50R15, so they are slightly smaller than your current tires. From doing a search on Tire Rack, I would say that going with a slightly smaller tire is your best option.

Try reaching out to the Cleveland Z Club to see if there is anybody with S30 expertise who could help you. http://clevelandzclub.com/contact-us/

If you want to, you can send me the turn signal switch to evaluate and advise.

You should see continuity at the two wires with the turn signal stalk in the down position. If you don't, it is likely that there is too much build-up on the contacts. Other possible issues: Bad solder joints where the wires are mated to the contacts Broken wire for the left turn circuit Contact is not in the board for the left turn signal (low probability) Corrosion at the connector.

I have the number for the current owner of the 46. 🙂

The construction of the 280Z turn signal switch is quite different from the 240Z switch. Inside the switch there is a "bridge" that will connect the contact for the power wire to the contact for the left and right signals. As you can see, there is a spring to press the rounded side down. Here is a picture of the contact pads for the turn signals. This is before I clean up this switch. When the stalk is in the neutral position, the bridge rests on the brown areas between the contact pads. You can take apart the switch and clean it up to make it nice and shiny! If you don't feel comfortable taking apart the switch, send me a PM, and we can discuss my cleaning services. Here's a brief description of what I did with that switch: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/07/11/late-280z-turn-signal-switch/

The interesting thing is the wiring diagram lists it as yellow/blue. The stripe sure looks green to me. Maybe it just really faded.

I went to my car to verify and cleaned up the wire. Confirmed! Good sleuthing!

Not sure if there was a reason or just Chinesium. I would be wary of getting junk in the filter from drilling, though.