SteveJ

I believe the wires by the ignition switch are for the key-in-the-ignition buzzer when you open your door. The pictures did help a lot here. the two white wires are identified in the FSM wiring diagram as Control Unit Checking Unit. In other words, you don't connect them to anything. They are for testing.

Thank you. I have been searching online about how to build a tachometer. I even have an old one to play with. By the way, would you mind if I host your write-up on my blog, too?

I had no problem with the LED bulb I got from Superbrightleds once I turned the bulb around for proper polarity. Of course, I installed new door switches at the same time and cleaned the contact area for the switches to ensure good contact with the body.

It depends upon your definition of acceptable. There is this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread23919.html. If you have a 240Z, there is someone selling a new skin made from a mold of a good dash with a BIN price of around $780. I cannot vouch for quality or fitment, though.

There are times where a picture is worth a thousand words. This is one of those times. Are there stripes on the wires? Have you looked at the wiring diagram or EE or BE sections of FSM to see if you can find them? What connectors do the wires have?

Polarity? Try turning the bulb around.

Good to know. I guess I'll stay with my inexpensive compressor for now.

I've eyed this one in the past: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-air-hydraulic-strut-spring-compressor-65549.html. I like that you stand to the side of the spring to operate it. It appears to come with different size brackets, too. I got hit one time when a spring popped out of a compressor. I was lucky. It hit me in the head where it couldn't do any damage.

With the battery sitting for 6 months, you should use a voltmeter (not your gauge) and measure the voltage at the battery while trying to start the car. It may not have enough energy to turn the starter or engage the solenoid. The wires to which Carl refers connect to the back of the ignition switch. Since you hear a relay clicking, that implies you are probably energizing the accessory relay. That makes me think it might be a loose connector (C-5) between the engine harness and dash harness.

Be methodical in your diagnosis. First, make sure you have voltage on both sides of your fusible links. Check the voltage of the white/red wire coming into your ignition switch. Check the connections between the dash harness and the engine harness. Connector C-5 carries the voltage from the ignition switch to the solenoid.

You don't have enough detail for people to do anything but guess. Did you have the battery disconnected when you did all of this? If not, you could have shorted something out. Have you used a voltmeter to check anything? Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram from the FSM to figure out where you have voltage? What systems are working? Accessories? Lights?

Hmm, interesting find, Pete. I wonder if they actually have them in stock. Do the different SUs have different diameter float bowls? Do you need the needle, too? Which needle? I have to admit that I'm a novice with the SUs. Bruce, I hope to eventually watch the videos I bought from you.

Thank you. The link should be good now.

I just finished a blog post on some electrical basics and troubleshooting. The first topic is the phantom draw on the battery. I plan on breaking down the circuits for the 240Z like the FSM has for the 260Z and 280Z to help people with their diagnostics in the future. Feel free to comment & critique. Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting

Oliver - Z Specialties: Top notch reputation in the Z Car community. I haven't done business with him personally, but I would trust him. Z Car Source: I have purchased a couple of used items from them. I never had any problems from them. Call to make sure they have what you are looking for. Just because it's on their website, they could be out.

They also replaced the thermostat on the 280Z. That's why it looked like an RTV explosion under the hood. They gooped on the RTV, used their makeshift gasket, and drove on. Let's just say that I'm glad I don't know the LeMons "mechanic". I don't think I would want him within 50 miles of my cars.

Supposedly, the cars were checked out by mechanics. I think some people wasted their money by choosing their mechanic poorly and not giving detailed instructions to the mechanic.

I read the story in Hagerty's magazine. Here's the video. IMHO, it's a great example of what happens when you take old cars out on trips without making sure they are properly prepared. Enjoy. Trip of Fools

FYI, it's a 77 or 78 distributor.

Yes, I found one with metal wheels on Amazon.

Thanks, I just ordered a spline tool.

Welcome, Steven. I'm glad your way over here.

You're welcome. I'm also trying some tricks to dress up the stalk. If I find a technique I like, I'll post details. I think I'm close, but I have another couple of switches I just bought to restore/experiment with. It should be soon.

I just documented working on a 240Z turn signal switch. I hope you find it useful. Cleaning up the turn signal switch

This thread is about a year and a half old: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42334.html You might want to read through this thread, too: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/62367-anyone-heard-from-ross-modern-motorsports-lately/ I haven't been a customer, though.