SteveJ

From your description, the problem most likely revolves around the turn signal switch. This should help guide you: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars The main difference is that in the 260Z and 280Z, the turn signal did not interact with the brake light circuit, so ignore the part about the brake lights. If you do not feel comfortable with taking apart the switch, contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain. He will repair it at a reasonable cost.

I lack the entrepreneurial spirit to capitalize on such opportunities. Besides, when I bought the 74 in 2008, it was with the understanding that I would be selling the 73 that still sits next to the 74. The wife has not forgotten, nor will she ever. I am not allowed to bring home any more without getting rid of one first.

For a California car with a case of tinworm, I would agree with the under $1K.

The positive wire for the 76 (and the 75) fuel pump comes from a green/blue wire. That wire originates at the Electronic Fuel Injection Relay pin 74. In the relay, pin 74 gets power from pin 73 (white/red wire) when the coil is energized. The coil in the relay is energized when either pin 76 or pin 4 have 12 VDC. Pin 76 is connected to the START circuit of the car. Pin 4 is connected to the ECU. Pin 4 has 12VDC when the AFM contacts are closed. (See EF-12 and EF-15 in the FSM) If the fuel pump stays on after you turn off the key, unplug the fuel pump relay and look for continuity between pins 73 and 74 on the relay. The attached drawing shows where the pins are on the base. Look for the green wires running to the fuel pump relay base. If you have continuity, that means the contacts are probably welded shut. Also check for voltage from Pin 4 on the relay base to ground. Measuring 12VDC is bad. Please note that I don't know if unplugging the relay would reset the signal from the ECU. The good news is that if you have a bad relay, apparently they are not that expensive.

Try Nissanparts.cc or Courtesyparts.com. If THEY say it's NLA, it's NLA!

It looks even better in person.

Florida is East Coast. BRE Race Car #300 - History in Brief

Without quantitative results with a voltmeter, no. You may wish to inspect your grounding points in the engine bay, though.

It wasn't harsh. It was spot-on. Edit: Oh, and there is only a short window to edit the post.

Okay, let's talk about some things here. 1. You have a short. 2. Your mechanic doesn't sound a good automotive electrician. The part number for the resistor is 25950-E4601. Try ordering it from NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories. That's a website for a Nissan dealer in the Bruce Titus group, and it's located in Washington state. Meanwhile, here is your next homework assignment. Take apart your side marker lights. Look for corrosion in the bulb sockets. If there is enough corrosion, it can bridge the gap between the positive and negative terminals in the socket and essentially cause a short. Also inspect the connector between the combo switch and the dash harness. Look for any signs of overheating such as shown in the attached picture. Also inspect your fuse box for signs of overheating.

There was one set of fusible links (2 fusible links/set) in the 74 260Z and two sets in the 75-78 280Z. The cover is the same part number for all years, so I would think the body is the same. You'll probably need a lot more detail than the one picture, though.

Pete is certain to draw a crowd if the event promotes him properly. Look at his interview in a recent Car & Driver. He was involved in the design of the split-window corvette and Daytona Coupe on top of his exploits with BRE. I met him when he came out for the Mitty in 2010. He was great with autograph seekers. I know. I got him to sign two event posters. One was for my nephew, and the other hangs right behind my monitor at work.

Are you sure you didn't damage any spark plug wires? Are you sure they are seated fully on the plugs? Are you sure you put the right wire on the right plug? Did you use NGK plugs?

It doesn't seem too strange when you account for tooling costs. Enlarging the gas tank forced the spare above the old well. Nissan compensated with the deck. Instead of spending extra money that would not garner any profit, they left old tooling unchanged for the tool pocket.

I took another look and updated it so there is a thumbnail of the diagram at the bottom. Clicking on that thumbnail opens the circuit diagram. Thanks for your feedback.

You can download the drawing or PDF file. Then you should be able to see it in all of its glory.

Okay, it took a few hours, but the first analysis is done. I built up a good library of Visio 2003 objects to make my next subject go a little easier. It was a good learning experience, too. I hope this helps someone. Hazard Lights - Brake Lights - Turn Signal Circuit Analysis

It looks like you still have some head gasket material left on it. Did you use the stripping cleaner after this picture? Have you checked the head to see if the mating surface is true?

I haven't added much to my blog in the last week. I just documented my start on the effort to create enhanced drawings of the 240Z circuits. Taking Shape | Fiddling With Z Cars

That's cuz we're Amuricans, gosh darn it. Yur sposed to do things OUR way! (This probably sounds funnier than it reads.)

Jared, You should bring your 10th anniversary edition out to a Georgia Z Club meeting or to Caffeine & Octane sometime.

I'm beginning to see a credit card to PayPal in your future.

Motorsport! Billet Aluminum Door Dove Tail Set, 70-76 240Z, 260Z, 280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Door Dove Tail, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

As I said to someone facing the same issue, "I'm glad I didn't glue down the cap on my 73."

So, let me make sure I understand...I'll find the wires wrapped in yellow tape, right?