SteveJ

FYI, most people here will refer to that as a condenser. You only need one. Go with the newer one. Also verify whether or not your new alternator is internally regulated.

Post pictures of both alternators so it is clear what you are talking about.

Try ZSpecialties for the wiring harness.

This is where a better meter with a hold function is your friend. You can capture the max. An oscilliscope can do this, too, but it's a little overkill. After looking at the circuit diagram I have online, I would say that I suspect the turn signal switch.

Did you connect one lead of the test light to the G/B and the other to the G/R? If so, you did it wrong. Shell out $20 for a multimeter and check the voltage of each wire to ground. Here's the key, though. The voltage from the turn signals will pulse. Also, check the measurement against what happens when you turn on the hazard lights.

There are many connectors under the dash. Which one did you take apart? Does it match up to any of the connectors in the link I provided?

Try looking at this: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Thank you. I would think that it might be a good idea to disconnect the battery, remove the fusebox and inspect/clean it. You have corrosion that is bad enough to cause at least 9 watts of heating at that fuse. It will only get worse over time.

Where are the leads when you detect a one-volt drop?

Yeah, I saw that about a week ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/49433-unique-hybrid.html

Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Yeah, don't pour too much money into that one. Just fix it up enough to enjoy driving it.

Something doesn't fit right. Is there any chance you have a ZX distributor or some other modification?

Considering you posted elsewhere that someone painted it red over the original color, it wouldn't have much value to someone who values the citrus green. (repaint<original) Rust drives the value down more. If you were looking to make money off of it, you will probably generate more income in parting it out. Otherwise, drive it.

I think we found your problem. 7PSIG>4.3PSIG. You need a pressure regulator downstream to use that fuel pump.

Not currently, at least from what I can/can't find on Google.

Start here: XenonS130 - S130 Reference

What is the pressure of the fuel pump? The stock pump specs are 3.4 to 4.3 PSIG, so the electric fuel pump should provide a similar pressure.

Pictures would help with valuation. Also what do you mean by "pretty ruff"?

Georgia does not require a title for a car from 1985 or earlier.

My guess is that you're typing something wrong. It came up here, too. NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories Of course, if you give that part number to your local dealer, they might be able to beat the price when considering shipping.

The part he's looking for is a check valve that lets in make-up air as you run the engine, but it won't let fuel vapors out when the tank warms. Part number 38 in the first link. It's not marked as NLA, so it may still be available.

Year? Nissan part number? Federal or California emissions?

Okay, that is definitely your accessory relay. Do the other checks and get back to us on the results.

1. Check the voltage while trying to start the car. Does it drop? 2. Check the voltage at the starter solenoid. 3. Check to see if your grounds are in good shape, especially to your solenoid. If it is a relay you are hearing, it is the accessory relay. You may be hearing the solenoid. Figure out where the click is.