SteveJ

Amazon.com: usb socket: Automotive

My first guess is that some rubber component somewhere is deteriorating.

The build date should be on the plate on the driver's side door jamb.

Interesting, I've never heard of that configuration. Go to the 73 FSM and get the gap & dwell settings out of the EE section. Factory gap is 0.45 to 0.55 mm Dwell is 35 to 41 degrees (manual) or 33 to 39 degrees (auto) You'll need a tach/dwell meter to adjust the points properly in addition to feeler gauges. Here is the one I have Actron CP7605 Dwell/Tachometer/Voltmeter Analyzer : Amazon.com : Automotive By the way, could you post a picture of the passenger kick panel area? I'm curious what it looks like. Also, what is the build date of your car?

What car are you trying to set the points on? Your profile says you have a 260Z. That car didn't have points in a stock configuration.

After some high profile cases in the US where people where tracked down for nefarious purposes via DMV information, Joe Average Citizen can't get that info easily. Also, if the car was moved around to different states, it would make tracking it more difficult. If it was a 17 digit VIN, CarFax could probably have provided some information, but this car is far too old for that.

The interesting thing for me is that while my wife gets a little miffed at the parts purchases, she usually approves of the results when she sees the new parts on the cars.

Actually the combo switch on his car does control the connection from between the WR & R wires, so it does switch the power. The dimmer switch completes the ground.

I'll describe the circuit in detail. There is a WR wire going to the headlight switch (12VDC+). When the switch is on, power comes out a R wire and goes to the fuse box. There is splits between the two headlights, coming out R (right) and RY (left). The R & RY wires go to their respective headlights. There are RB (low) and RW (high) wires coming out of the headlights. Those wires go back to the dimmer switch. The switch connects RB to ground in one position for low beams, and it connects RW to ground for high beams. Be careful about running random wires to components. You'll be replacing a lot more wiring, especially if you bypass a fuse and burn up the wiring. Even worse, you could cause an electrical fire and lose the car or possibly the garage/house.

I got the splash pan from the 260Z blasted and coated. The place turned it around in one day for me. I lucked out in that they were coating a bunch of other things flat black, so they added the splash pan into the mix. For the Atlanta area people, this is the place I went to: Professional Cryogenic Metallurgy & Coatings,Atlanta,Georgia,Cryogenic,REM Gears,powder coating,ceramic coating,sandblasting,metal polishing Pete Thomas recommended them to me, and I can see why.

I'll let you know. I just bought a set.

Okay, I did manage to take a picture today.

That reminded me of the thread last year about the guy who claimed he bought out the parts from a Nissan dealership. People were shooting all sorts of parts requests to him. Did those requests ever pan out?

Photos will be coming. I was tired when it was done, and I wanted to get warm.

My wife took my new Konig Rewinds to the tire store today to get tires mounted on them. I put the wheels on the 260Z this evening and swapped the Iron Cross wheels to the 240Z.

Sorry to hear that, Chas. The 9 LED BARELY fit in mine. Is the current lens one that you made?

The coil and transistor unit are frequently culprits when having these kinds of problems. Carry a can of dusting air in your car. When it is hard to start, hold the can upside down and spray the transistor unit. The liquid coming from the can will hit the unit and vaporize quickly, cooling the unit. Try starting the car again. If it starts right up, you found your problem. You can do the same to the coil and ECU. Just try one at a time to ensure you isolate the problem.

Yikes! That's bad mojo. Do you have an ammeter or voltmeter? I believe you might have the ammeter. If so, you could have damaged that. Are you sure you made all of the connections properly when putting the dash back in?

The other set of fuses would be the fusible links (or fuses if someone did a maxi-fuse swap).

First guess is that you don't have something plugged back in properly. Look at the BE section of the 76 FSM. It gives breakouts of the different circuits, including the headlight circuit. It gives you a pretty good idea of how to trace the circuit. Do you have a multimeter, and do you know how to use it? If so, I can give you better diagnostics.

Nice fabrication to integrate the controls.

Mike McGinnis has them listed on his site: Banzai Motorworks.

You haven't supplied enough information to give a meaningful assessment. How long have you owned this car? Has the fuse always blown, or is this a recent occurrence? If it is recent, have you done anything to the car maintenance wise prior to the fuse blowing? Was the turn signal turned to the left or right when the fuse was blowing, or would the fuse blow with the switch in the center (off) position?

I haven't done it, but it's not that difficult. Following the FSM wiring diagram, you can see the wires that go to the ammeter. As you said, those wires must be joined together. Insulate your connection well, since you definitely don't want a dead short there. You will need a voltmeter/fuel gauge. From CarPartsManual.com, it looks like it will come from a 77 or 78. You may have to modify your dash harness and/or meter to get the same plugs on both sides. Run the negative side of the meter to ground. Run the positive side to a constant 12VDC or switched VDC, depending upon whether or not you want the gauge to be functioning when the power is on. A voltmeter has very high resistance, so the power draw is negligible.

Yes. I bought two sets from them this year.