SteveJ

Did you check your voltage regulator?

Year?

When are you guys driving down here to show it off?

1. When you used Paypal, you gave them your name, address and email address. 2. If you were expecting an account to be set up, I don't think that would happen immediately. ZONC isn't a business. It's people volunteering their time to create a car club. 3. They have names, email addresses, and phone numbers on their website for the club officers. Why not try contacting them?

You'll need to prioritize. As you said, that's more than one day's work to diagnose and correct.

No photos from underneath the car. No idea of engine health. Plenty of band-aid fixes under the hood. Most likely it's crack pipe pricing at $14K. Too many unknowns for someone to give you anything better than a swag. However, if you want a Z really bad, this might be a bad Z for you.

Considering none of the drawings are from Nissan, it doesn't matter too much what they look like. Unfortunately, Nissan doesn't produce a vehicle I would consider owning. The 370Z lacks the practicality of the S30, and the slave cylinder failures turned me off. The last Nissan product I considered owning was the 240SX.

No, that is the condenser. It is a capacitor that reduces electrical noise. The fuel pump relay is in the passenger compartment, probably on the passenger side kick panel. Unfortunately I can't say for sure since you have a late 260Z. The wiring that goes to the fuel pump relay is hidden in the harness between the alternator and regulator. If memory serves, it is spliced into the yellow wire.

It most likely is externally regulated. If the alternator was swapped for an internally regulated alternator, the battery would die more often from the fuel pump relay being energized all of the time. The coil for the fuel pump relay is wired between the alternator and regulator on the 260Z.

Have you checked your fusible links? They are in the engine compartment. Things were moved around in the late 260Z, so I can't say for sure where they are located.

The Engine Electrical (EE) section of the factory service manual has procedures to check the voltage output of your alternator/regulator as well as other diagnostics. That is a good starting point.

My coated header sends up a lot of heat right onto the fuel rail. I used an infrared thermometer, and it was getting pretty warm at the rail. I was thinking about fabricating another shield to mount under the rail before trying to fabricate a new fuel rail that goes closer to the carburetors.

I used this to go over the existing insulating wrap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZZHXMQ/ I cut it in half and used both pieces to cover.

This is the part number that Courtesy Nissan lists: http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/b6370e4100

Probably June 30th or July 1st or 2nd. I'm taking time off from work. I know you need me to look at your tachometer and AC. What else?

Also, check the 6 wire connector under the dash, specifically at the green/white and green/blue wires. Those are the ones that the parking light switch connects. The reason why I asked about the bulbs is that it is easy to replace the stock bulbs with 1156 and 1157 bulbs. While those bulbs will work in the sockets, they draw more current than the 67 and 1073 bulbs specified by Nissan. The extra current can cause heating at connectors with that one (and the fuse box) being the most vulnerable. The heating can cause damage without blowing the fuse.

How do you know you didn't blow the fuse? Did you check it with a meter? Do you have the correct bulbs in for the side markers, turn signals and tail lights? Inspect for corrosion at the side markers. That will come into play later.

The problem is that the setup in the photo does not move the fuel rail from the heat source. I fabricated a new heat shield for my car and reduced the temperatures at the carburetors by about 100 degrees. I also added more insulation on the fuel rail. It reduced the heat on the fuel rail, but it didn't eliminate it. I plan on moving it closer to the carburetors so it is better protected by the heat shield.

Will you adopt me?

If all else fails, I will be the guinea pig.

Let me know, too. Do you know if they will fit on a 260Z slider?

I could swear that I ordered some of the caps that go over the nuts. I'll have to check my hardware supply if I can remember it.

Single castle nut from same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS-/221864836376

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS/222114221446

Connect the vacuum pump to the hose where the mechanical pump would go. See if you can pull fuel through it. A hairline crack above the fuel level would may not show much/any fuel leaking out, but it might be enough to let air in. I have seen threads in the past where people found this was the problem with pumping fuel through the fuel lines.