SteveJ

If the fuse is blowing, it's time to look closer at the circuit than to just keep plugging fuses into the fuse box. Look at the wiring harness for splices. Make sure there isn't anything poking up under the fuse box that could short the fuse. Examine bulb sockets for corrosion and loose wires. (I had a loose wire on a socket that I found last December.) Make sure you have the proper wattage/type bulbs if you're using incandescent bulbs.

With the 3 pin, you have to run an extra ground wire. I used these in my 260Z, https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM. You can adjust the flash rate, too.

That looks like some serious heat damage.

This isn't quite direct reading, but it should work for you. https://www.amazon.com/SYNERKY-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-voltmeter-Resistance/dp/B077ZS5RR4

It looks good.

I'm not sure if the 2+2 uses the same fuel tank as the coupe. If it does, you can use a 240Z or 260Z tank. Expect to pay $300+ for a used tank. Z Car Depot and Motorsport Auto may have the interior parts. There are some other sources, but you'll need to be specific on what you're looking for.

What do you need?

You still have 4 months.

It's an early 260Z. I suspect the door jamb plate says it was manufactured before Sept 74. You do realize you have to bring it to ZCON 2018 this October, don't you? Huntsville isn't that far from here.

What about STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PS173? Supposedly, it's designed for a 1978 280Z. If I don't miss my guess, the vertical connector on the T is the one for the negative pin for your fuel pump relay. I have one in my parts stash just in case I ever want to convert to an internally regulated alternator on my 260Z.

Post some photos. Bumpers are an easy tell. The placement of components around the battery can help identify early or late, too. Also, the VIN can give a clue.

Just a suggestion for replacing the stock springs. From another thread on here, I learned that the right Chevette springs can be used, though they need to be cut to height. I tried it out since the springs on my 260Z felt worn out. The ride does not feel harsh to me, and it is stiffer at all of the corners.

According to the FSM, there is a white wire that should power the horn and brake light circuits. It originates from the fusible link at the battery and splits off. One branch goes to the voltage regulator, one goes to the ammeter, and the third goes to the fusebox.. There should be two white/red wires, one coming from the alternator, and the other coming from the ammeter. The other power wires for the fuse box are blue/red and black/white. Since there are 3 white wires in your photo, it's difficult for me to say with 100 percent certainty that it is for the horn and brake lights.

The wire should not be getting hot. Is it getting hot on both sides of the brake switch? Was the brake circuit blowing the fuse (bottom of left side in fuse box) before you used the bypass wire? Power should be coming through the fusible link to the large gauge white wire that goes to the fuse box. It comes off the bottom fuse on the left and through the green/yellow wire to the brake switch. (The hazard light flasher also taps into that wire.) I hope this helps.

The OP might have gotten that from here: http://zhome.com/History/StylingMatsuo/MatsuoZStory1.htm (Look about midway down on the page.), though I have no idea where he got the idea that the hatch had problems with leaks. Perhaps he only has seen Zs with dry rotted window glass seals. Those will leak. The price listed is quite a bit on the high side given the condition of the car that is visible in the photos.

I saw your post on another forum. It's the third fuse down on the left.

If 7tooZ does not have the right switch, I definitely have at least one extra.

If Charles brings her down for ZCON, I might be able to put her in as a judge for the People's Choice show.

If your gauge lights are out, look at the running lights. If those are out, too, it could be the fuse, combo switch, or a connector. If the running lights work, but the gauge lights don't, look at the dimmer switch on the dash. To answer your original question, yes, they are on the same fuse. The particular fuse will depend upon the year of your Z. I suggest you add the year/model of your car in your signature so it's always in your posts.

JDM cars had flash to pass (possibly in Europe, too?). The horn button grounds the horn. The issue may be that you're not looking at a FSM wiring diagram. It is shown clearly on the 72 & 73 wiring diagrams. Look for a wire labeled GB.

Exactly how mine were packaged.

Here is the updated part number: 26261-89965. It looks to be a standard type 194 bulb. I seem to remember using an LED version in my map light many years ago.

The phrase "won't start" does not give any diagnostic value. Does the starter turn the engine? Have you checked for spark? Will the car start with starting fluid? What is the fuel pressure?

Just to add to my previous post, when I arrived, there was only one other Japanese car there, an RX-7 with a V8 swap. I walked around to take photos, and when I got back to my car, there was a Skyline and a 350Z parked by my car.

I took the car out to the local fairgrounds this evening where there was a small car show going on. The gentleman standing next to my car is Randy Todd. He was the third owner of my car. I think I'm owner #6. He purchased it in California in 1985 and brought it out to Georgia in 1991. The car helped him teach his two sons how to drive a stick shift.