SteveJ

The stock ignition grounds at the TIU on the blue wire. If you are using a MS to fire the ignition, that means you two incompatible ignition systems connected to your car. Is the MS connected to the negative terminal of the coil? Post a copy of the wiring diagram for the ignition you are using. Disconnect the TIU. Wrap the ring lugs in the factory harness individually with electrical tape. Reconnect the blue wire at coil and reconnect the distributor. See if you still have your problem.

That is DEFINITELY the one. It has the diodes and everything.

The 73 buzzer is a different animal. I haven't studied the other wiring diagrams enough to know if it was used earlier. According to the factory wiring diagram, the buzzer @Matthew Abate is looking for has 3 wires. Two are positive feeds, diode isolated, and one ground wire. One of the positive wires goes through a set of normally closed contacts at the driver's side door switch. Those contacts are connected to two of the 3 wires on that switch. Only one of the wires on the driver's door switch grounds on the switch.

Snipped from S30-heater.pdf. That file may be on the downloads, but I couldn't find it easily.

So my wife is wrong. I AM good for something! I'm glad you could get to the bottom of your problem.

If @grannyknot was operating the hazard switch in between the successful and failed operations in his video, I might be inclined to think that.

I'm not a big fan of the 2 pin electronic flashers. Maybe it's the cheap Chinesium aspect, but the type I was buying had some intermittent performance issues with LED bulbs that I have not seen with the 3 pin flashers. Anyway, if you're running incandescent bulbs and have intermittent performance of the turn signal, that indicates that you don't have enough current flowing through it. The intermittent performance with the electronic flasher tells me that the issues is probably between the flasher and the turn signal indicator. That would point to the switch or one of the connections to the switch.

So yes, the dash indicator will mimic the activity of the front blinker. Now you need to clarify. Is this behavior the same with the thermal and electronic flashers? If so is electronic flasher a 2 pin or 3 pin flasher? The 3 pin units need a ground wire. So, there are 1 of 2 likely sources. The turn signal switch contacts can be iffy. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ The bulb sockets up front are iffy.

I was referring to the electronic flasher.

Are you using a two wire or 3 wire flasher relay? A link to the part or part number would be very helpful. As for both sides flashing when moving the turn signal stalk, has the switch been rebuilt? That could be the rocker in the switch not being bent at the correct angle.

S30.World has steel tanks. The plastic tanks are sold by someone else.

Right now, I probably have too many electrical parts on hand.

I think this may have been the year Dan Parkinson hit the back of Paul Newman's car.

I looked at the rheostat access. The best path is probably to remove the tachometer.

I don't expect a lot of people wanting to take me up (except @Yarb, who just likes to drop ship things to me), but yes, I would put on two bullets for the price of shipping the part back to someone. As for the cost of shipping to me, if you use Amazon Prime, the part could be drop shipped to me, so someone would only need to pay about $20 for the same thing that Harmon wants $50+shipping.

Actually the poster on Zcar.com wasn't indignant IMHO. He was more perturbed about the slow shipping. OTOH, when I look at Harmon Resto's website I see several things that he is marking up big with no value added. He's putting together cheap parts he is sourcing from Amazon, Temu, or Aliexpress and marking them up significantly.

A member at Zcar.com was a little miffed about receiving his purchase from Harmon Resto. This is what he ordered: https://harmonresto.com/products/usb-charger-cig-delete-kit-w-volt-meter. After a brief search on Amazon, it wasn't hard to find a source for the USB ports: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Outlet-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B098KD2G8F. Harmon doesn't even bother to leave the inline fuse on it, but they make up for it by marking up the price significantly. So if you really want these, reach out to me. Drop ship the Amazon one to me. (Suggestion: Get this one and you'll have 3 ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1WJ3W5X) I'll replace the ring lugs with bullets for you and charge you shipping. I love it when business support the hobby, but I don't like it when they mark up products 300% in the process.

Thank you for the clarifications. This helps in providing guidance. Considering your willingness to put a quality effort into the jumper harnesses, I'm not too concerned with where you intercept the circuit as long as it's after the brake switch. When in doubt, use an inline fuse to protect the branch circuit! It's relatively cheap, and if the extra wire gets chafed and shorts out, you don't take out the other brake lights. A 5A fuse should be fine for the inline fuse. Allow me to clarify. At the rheostat (aka gauge light dimmer), you have a green/white wire going in and a red/blue coming out. The green/white is same wire as for the parking lights, and the red/blue goes to the gauges. (By the way, I strongly suggest changing parking lights to LEDs and derating the fuse to 10A to protect the wiring/fuse box better.) If the window switch lights are dimmable, you may want to make your branch circuit off the red/blue wire. If the lights aren't dimmable, make the branch off the green/white wire. Again, putting an inline fuse on the new branch is cheap insurance that you don't take out your parking lights while driving. You can find the rheostat here: Does that make more sense?

The directions for tuning/adjusting are in the EF section of the FSM.

Unless it was a North American spec car, that was a different carburetor.

William Stokes, aka @hls30.com, passed away yesterday. He had been battling some medical issues for a while. Now he gets to rest. Here he is on the left from a couple of years back when he went to lunch with a couple of my friends.

I'm not sure how you have things wires at your brake pedal switch and whether or not you still have stock wiring in place in the brake/turn signal circuit. You won't find a jumper harness at the gauges unless you make one and install it. It would be easier to provide guidance if you would quote what you are asking about.

Why worry about it? Nissan said they aren't going to build it for sale.

It's the right part number. https://www.amazon.com/MOMO-3503-Steering-Wheel-Nissan/dp/B000F0KG9A