SteveJ

What ignition does the car have? Points? Pertronix? ZX? MSD? Crane? Have you verified there is no wobble in the distributor shaft?

It could be a Xenon air dam. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/datsun-260z-280z-xenon-urethane-front-air-dam-3125/

That's a BA7 bulb. https://www.google.com/search?q=ba7+bulb&oq=b&aqs=chrome.1.69i60j69i59j69i60j69i61j69i60l2j69i65l2.2339j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Send me a PM with your phone number, and I'll pass it along to someone I know in North Georgia.

Yes, what are you looking to have done and in what timeframe?

And Mike McGinnis has it: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php

I believe Les Cannaday used to sell engine paint. I'm not sure if he still does.

First put the year of your car in your post. It looks like you have a 77 or 78, but I can't be sure.

The short answer is, "No." The longer answer: How much have your researched the electrical wiring in the 280Z? The harness has 3 main sub-harnesses: engine, dash, and body. Here are some of the changes over the years that come to mind. This list is not all encompassing. (This sounds like a good group project.) It would take a lot of effort to do this for a VERY small market. The 75 wiring harness used the 260Z harness as a starting point, removing some of the wiring needed for the carburetors and adding the wiring for the licensed version of the Bosch L-tronic fuel injection. There is also an extra fusible link for the EFI that is not in the 260Z harness, and they deleted the PITA seatbelt interlock relay, though it's still shown in the wiring diagram. The 76 added more fusible links and dropped the ammeter in favor of a voltmeter. The 77 changed the connectors for the interconnections between the sub-harnesses from Yazaki to AMP. (Did I get that right @Captain Obvious?) A relay block was added over by the battery. The 78 changed from having an external voltage regulator to one integrated into the alternator. The ignition deleted the ballast resistor. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays changed. While a lot of modern cars will have a wiring harness that accommodates all sorts of options, Nissan did not do that with the early Z. There are 12 part numbers in the parts catalog for just the engine harness. If you look through the parts manual you will see variations like Federal (49-state) manual Federal auto California manual California auto This isn't meant to discourage you. It's just to let you know that you're going to need to be creative with your project. Good luck.

Good thinking. What year brake master are you looking for?

Watch what you say about Earl Scheib. Heck even one of their paint jobs would make my 240Z look better.

Even Hondas want to be Z people.

Looking at the BBB website, quite a few people have registered complaints over the last 3 years. Apparently they provide good customer service after they have been called out in public.

If you submitted a credit card number with that order, I would monitor it carefully. I have NEVER had to submit extra documentation to a vendor and to hell if I ever would. Pay a few bucks more and buy from a reputable vendor like Motorsport Auto or ZCarDepot.

I believe so, since their units do AC, heat, and defrost.

Fusible link diagnostics: It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF Test the voltage at the battery with the car off. Record the result. Test the voltage at the battery with the car running. Record the result. Note: If it is above 15V at idle - there is your problem. Test the current through the fusible link with the key in ON but car not running. Record the result. Note: If the meter shows a negative value, remove the clamp, face the meter in the opposite direction, and put it back over the fusible link. Leaving the ammeter around the fusible link, test the current through the fusible link with the car running. Record the result. Note: The polarity of the current should change. From this we should get a better idea of whether or not @siteunseen is putting you on the right path. If I have time, I'll make a short video to demonstrate. Setting idle speed: You can buy a multimeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or a fancy timing light like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8 (Yes, I have both.) You can even find a handheld tachometer, but I haven't used one myself.

Close, it was to keep the points from burning up.

If you find you need to move away from the stock AC, Vintage Air and Nostalgic AC both have evaporators with heater cores.

Trust me. Corrosion can happen even with a "California" car. The horns on my 240Z wouldn't work until I took a dremel and wire brush to the horns and the wiring. That's a little more extreme because the horns are out front and get spray, but I have found corrosion at many connectors.

My S30.World tank is mounted in the 240Z. Now I just have to wait for half decent weather so I can take it for a drive.

Actually, I started writing a response and saw your reply. To make sure I wasn't on the wrong path, I dug through the FSM to verify my memory was correct. In conclusion, your post made me research more to give a better answer than I originally intended. In the 72 FSM, the description of the throttle opener starts on EC-10.

I have to disagree with @siteunseen. The vacuum hose would connect to a part that has been removed. There should be a control valve mounted to where I have the arrow. The control valve and dashpot are described in the EC section of the factory service manual. Here is a picture from page EC-2: The control valve and dashpot prevent the throttle from closing as rapidly when you take your foot off the gas pedal. That reduced the volume of unburned hydrocarbons out the exhaust.

Have you cleaned all of the connecters between the fuel gauge and fuel sending unit? Corrosion will show up as extra resistance. Extra resistance means lower readings.

I suggest reaching out to the Indy Z Car Club. Maybe someone in that club would know of a shop or person who could help. https://www.indyzcarclub.org/