SteveJ

Yes, it is basic. It's just a matter of knowing which wires go to what. If you know how to read wiring diagrams, you're probably in good shape. The 240Z's wiring diagram is pretty simple. 87a is the normally closed contact. Just make sure the wire on the relay socket that goes to the 87a pin is not able to touch ground. Put some electrical tape on it, heat shrink the end, or put on a butt splice. Just don't leave it exposed. You need two relays because you need a normally open contact (87) for the lowbeams and a normally open contact (87) for the high beams. if you look at the circuit diagram that is on the Zhome website, it might help clarify things for you. Basically, when you turn on the headlights with the combo switch, it completes a circuit through the dimmer switch on the other side of the steering column. The low beam wire from that switch will energize the coil on the low beam relay, and the high beam wire from the switch will energize the coil on the high beam relay. There is nothing stopping you from adding relays for the parking lights. Dave even has an upgrade package for that. Steve

You can also find various parts at Amazon.com, too. I can also personally vouch for Vintage Connections. I bought a bunch of connectors from him a while back, and I love using them. Mike, before you start cutting wires, send me a PM so we might have a chance to talk about what you want to do. It could save you some headaches later on.

You have to be picky with Harbor Freight. NEVER buy cast aluminum tools from there. On the other hand, I have many tools from Harbor Freight that are 12 or 13 years old.

As I mentioned in another thread, Rockauto even has replacement headlight combo switches that work for 260Zs. Those switches should work for some late 73 240Zs and 75 280Zs.

That site is what I used nine years ago as a starting point for integrating relays into a 240Z. My description is hosted by Carl Beck over at www.zhome.com.

Mike, Search this site, and you'll find links to where my relay modification resides. Given the choice, I would do an install like Dave's (Zs-ondabrain). His is plug and play. Yes, it costs more, but you have less risk of messing up something.

Well, I would say that somehow you got the wires crossed between the low beam and high beam circuits on the passenger side. Take another look at the wires coming off the relays and going out to the passenger side.

Well, we tracked down the problem with the car. The ammeter had given up the ghost. I put in a shunt for a temporary fix. The car won't be on the road anytime soon, so the ammeter can be replaced in the future.

Tumblers aren't that bad in price. I can do all my small parts in this. I didn't think it was that bad. If you have all of your parts stripped off, though, I think going through Zeddsavers is smarter.

Thanks, Dave. I'm going to take a closer look tomorrow to see which wires were the ones overheating. I wonder if the combo switch I bought will work in a 73 then. Can someone look at the parts CD for a cross reference to see if the 73 & 74 use the same switch?

Believe it or not, there is a source for new (or a very well refurbished) headlight switch. Rockauto has it for $199. Yes, that's more than what Dave charges, but I decided to take a chance on what Rockauto was selling. It was a perfect fit, too. The switch is listed as STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #HLS1026. I'm glad I went this route. I happened to notice during the removal of the old switch that there were signs of wires overheating at the connector. Dave, if you read this, does your parking light relay work with a 260Z? Steve

I second what Jim says. I have a bunch of connectors from them sitting in my garage.

Have you tried Roger at ZBarn? You could probably get a complete dash harness for a reasonable price.

Jeff, If you REALLY want help, you'll need to say more than "The engind does not want to start." The more details you can give, the better the advice you will receive. As for the clutch, replace the Master & Slave cylinders. Use fresh fluid and bleed. Bleeding a clutch is not like bleeding brakes. Search online for the proper procedure. Download the factory service manual. You can find one on the XenonS30 link in my signature. READ IT! Also, search on here for advice on prepping an engine that has been sitting for a while. As for the fenders and seats...Inexpensive fenders usually mean rusty fenders. You don't state what you think is inexpensive, so no one can truly give you a good ballpark. You have a 38 year old car that needs work. Do your research, develop a gameplan, and get a budget together. Randomly attacking an old car with parts usually gets you an empty wallet and a poorly running car.

Thanks, I'll pick some up. Steve

I'm going to use brake cleaner on the greasy ones and then put the hardware in a rock tumbler I just bought.

I'm planning on taking pictures. Can you support video on here, too, or are we limited to YouTube embedded files? Also, I need some info on where I can find a good video compression program. My MP4 files are pretty huge from my camera.

Phil, Is there something else wrong besides the lack of voltage? We'll probably get that fixed on Sunday. Steve

I'll just have to fly into Buffalo on my next trip up here so I can buy a supply of Diet Dew to take across the border. The trick will be to convince customs that 3 cases is a personal supply for a couple of weeks.

Grounding issues are common. So are worn/dirty contacts on the switch. Don't forget to check the integrity of your fuse. Pull it and check it with a meter. Fuses can look good and still be bad.

Ron, I lucked out. I thought I had updated this thread, too. I found the larger plugs for sale by Year One. Ironically, they are about 30-40 minutes from me. I bought the plugs, but I haven't installed them, yet. I appreciate you remembering to look. By the way, why hasn't Canada realized that having Diet Mountain Dew is a key to great life? Heck, it seems like almost every other US product is available up here. Steve

Peter, there have been many posts in the past about problems with parking lights/running lights. Please search for those terms to get some ideas of what to test. The parking lights and the flashers are different circuits. You don't state the year of your 260Z, and I'm not sure if Nissan wired Austrailian market cars differently from US cars or if 260Zs later than 74 are wired like US 260Zs or 280Zs.

Well, even though the wiring in my 73 has held up 9 years since I first did it, I don't recommend doing the cutting and splicing trick for the headlight relays. On the other hand, you're already cutting into your wires... This is how I did it back then. It hasn't given me any problems over the last 9 years. Steve

Mike will take a check, Andrew. I've donated that way before.

It's only two more weeks. I'm going to be working fast and furious all of the week before to get my cars ready. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you there. Just be on the lookout for an okay looking 260Z & an ugly 73 240Z parked near each other near the Suzuki Bridge.