SteveJ

My brother helped me with replacing the rear hatch weatherstripping and door jamb switches in the 260Z. Oh, by the way, if you EVER decide to get an LED bulb for the dome light polarity is VERY important. I had my brother test the light while I worked on cleaning out the old weatherstripping. He said that it had voltage, but the light still didn't work. I had him pull the dome light from the 73 and test it in the 260Z. It lit up. He thought it was a bad switch in the dome light. I didn't think so because it was a new dome light. It was at that point in time that the cluebird of happiness came to roost upon my shoulder. I tested the bulb with a couple of lantern batteries. Sure enough, the polarity was critical. (Festoon bulbs aren't inherently obvious about polarity, especially to two men who can't see much of anything up close.) After marking the negative side with a paint pen, I gave the bulb back to my brother, and we had the dome light working again.

Some 72s did have the vertical defroster grid. Your supposition is most likely correct.

Quite possibly they are related. You'll need a copy of the FSM (see link in my signature) and a multimeter to diagnose. Pages BE-12 & BE-13 show the circuits. Also, double check all of the connectors to see if they are loose or if you have a damaged wire. Has this happened recently or has it been this way since you've had the car? If it was recent, did you do any work on the car shortly prior to the problem?

To elaborate on the "extra" pin, that relay has what is known as form C contacts. If you do any research on electrical circuits, you will see the 87a pin referred to as a normally closed contact (closed when there is no power on the coil). The 87 pin is the normally open contact (closed only when there is the power to the coil). The 30 pin is the wiper. The 86 pin is the positive for your coil. The 85 pin is negative for your coil. (Some relays have diodes, and that is why it's important to connect 86 to positive.) If you use a pre-wired base, be sure to remove the wire for the 87a pin from the base. That will prevent you from shorting out anything.

It's a closed trailer, but it's also $24K.

The worst case scenario is that you'll get a follow-up message from them a couple of days later saying it's not available.

I wasn't able to find one with a quick search, but you might look at motorcycle parts as a potential source. Edit: Upon further review, changing my search to headlight rubber uncovered this item on eBay. It's a Datsun part, too. Try searching for the part number and see if Courtesy or NissanPartsCC might have it.

Search for stuck drum here. There are plenty of threads on the subject.

It's not bad if you get a full face cover, and it's a lot cheaper than a new dash.

You could try graphite powder.

Pete, Rebuild it or not, if you're going to do it in your garage, don't forget that I have a crane.

Another way to do this is to jack up the suspension on the wheel you are working on while the car is on jack stands. IIRC, that is how I did it about 14 years ago.

Come on. I think we need at least 2 more threads on this.

Why not find some early SU carburetors? Contact Bruce Palmer via PM or go to Z Therapy. The side draft carburetors offer about the best performance for the Z.

If it's just a slight leak, why not get it fixed. You could always contact Les Cannaday to see where he sourced his radiators from 16 years ago when he did the work for Nissan. He is a member here under the user name CDM. You could send him a PM.

Yes, they will pop apart.

The short answer is "No." I gave you direction on where to find a service manual and a wiring diagram. I also directed your attention to a likely location for your problem. However, instead of trying what I suggested and coming back with more questions based upon what you found out, you just asked for spoonfeeding. This forum is for Z car enthusiasts, and we help one another. However, we do expect the person asking for help to make an honest effort and be a working partner in the solution. You say you just want to sell your Z car. What is my incentive to assist you? You haven't offered me any compensation for my time and effort. You say it's a chore for you to fix the problem. It's just as much of a chore to decifer half of what you write.

Vintage Connections is an excellent source for a lot of our connectors. However, I don't think he carries molex connectors.

Phil is Canadian. It's in his nature to apologize whether or not there is a reason. I even saw a news story about that on CBC when I was doing some work near Toronto.

That reading sounds right. It would be 2,960 Ohms.

The senders are available via eBay & MSA. However, they are essentially a potentiometer. Unless you took out the sender, there is little chance of breaking it, though they can wear from the float going up and down. What exactly did you mess with? Search around here. I know I've posted on how the fuel gauge circuit works. It's pretty simple.

First, I suggest getting a new fusebox. MSA sells a drop-in replacement. It isn't cheap, though. The intermittent wiper relay is in the passenger footwell. Download a copy of the FSM (link below) and look in section BE. Don't rule out the combo switch and all of the corrosion in the connectors as being possible culprits, too. Your best bet is to study the wiring diagram and start attacking the circuit with a multimeter.

Considering the OP said the lights & voltmeter came on when he tried to start the car, I feel pretty confident that there are electrical issues at play as a primary or secondary issue. I'm curious about how he answers my questions back to him.

You haven't supplied enough data to speculate. Was anything like this happening before you made any repairs, such as any other electrical problems? What all did you replace with the fuel system? Did you connect the battery properly after replacing the starter? How long have you had the car? Did you or a previous owner attempt any electrical repairs? General problem descriptions tend to get general responses. Detailed descriptoins will yield better results. If the wiring hasn't been hacked, you may want to look for wire damage in the steering column, especially if anybody ever tried to hotwire the car.

The fusible links are under the hood. Download a copy of the FSM from the link below. Also get a copy of the wiring diagram from Blue's tech tips. I have a strong suspicion that there is a lot more going on than a bad fusible link.