SteveJ

I would have to take a look at the EE section of the FSM to have a guess about the diode functions. I'll let you know if I have a chance to go through it.

It depends. If he picks up a Maxima alternator that has diodes on their last leg, he hasn't gained much. If his alternator has good windings and bad diodes, replacing the diodes would give him a serviceable alternator, and the process would give him a better understanding of the electronics technology used in the car that could help him repair other issues later.

It's the brake warning lamp check relay. You'll find it on page BE-92. It's connector number 11. The circuit is drawn on BE-35 and described starting on BE-41. One thing to note is that the coil for the relay is powered from the L terminal of the alternator, so the coil is energized whenever you have voltage at the L terminal. The warning lamp is lit whenever you pull up on the parking brake or let the fluid level get low in the reservoir. Anyway, you might want to check the voltage from the blue wire to ground with the car running just to make sure the alternator isn't putting out so much voltage that it's frying the relay.

Answer: something is causing too high of resistance in the circuit for the left blinkers. The high resistance is preventing the flasher from heating up enough to open the circuit to blink. Corrosion in the light sockets or in a connector could cause this. Too low of wattage bulbs, such as LEDs could do it, too. For your other question, have you looked at the FSM in the BE section for the relay under the seat? Can you tell us what color wires are on the wiring harness side of where the relay plugs into?

Double check on Amazon. I noticed threads on here, zcar.com and Hybridz that referenced some of the products I found there. The prices were fairly low, too.

I checked my spare 260Z/280Z (74-76) door panels against the 73 door panels. The window cranks are in the same position and the dimensions look about the same. Why do you think you need electric motors for your windows? Added: If you REALLY want an electric window kit, you can find them on Amazon and many other sites.

Be careful. There are at least 3 types of 280Z door panels. One fits the 260Z and 75 & 76 280Z. The other is for the 77 & 78 280Z. I do not know if there was any differentiation in the 2+2 door panels for the various years, though a little research of the parts manual could clear that up. Anyway, if I can remember, I'll compare the door panels when I get home. Steve

Do you have any other odd electrical symptoms such as other gauges dropping or lights dimming when you hit the gas pedal? Does your tachometer respond correctly? As for removing the gauge, you can do that by removing the glovebox and heater panel. You can then remove the screws and pull the gauges out through the opening left by the glovebox.

Fortunately, I have a spare dash harness lying about. After examining it, I found the inline fuse for the fuel pump. It goes in black/white and comes out green. It is near three other connectors. Two of those connectors are labeled as 16 and 17 on page BE-3 of the Body Electrical section of the FSM. If my guess is correct, you'll find them toward the passenger side of the center console.

Try this link for 280ZX info: http://xenons130.com/reference.html. Without the wire colors, it's difficult to guess what the wires could be for.

If the ignition key is not operating properly, you might not be getting power to the coil for the ignition relay. That would keep the turn signals from working. Again, check the voltage where I suggested with a voltmeter, but check both sides of the fuse. If there is no voltage on either side, either the relay coil is not energized, or the contacts in the relay aren't completing the circuit. If it is just the ignition switch, you can replace the switch part in back. It's about $18 + S&H from Rockauto.

Things that could be going on: The hazard switch is not completing the turn signal circuit when the switch is off. The fuse is blown. (Fuses are cheap. Buy some new ones and put them in. Your car deserves it. ) The flasher unit is bad. (The hazard lights are on a separate flasher, so they could still work.) There is a problem with the ignition relay. (You'd probably find other circuits with issues, too.) There is a bad fusible link. (You'd probably find other circuits with issues, too.) A connector has come loose. The turn signal switch has gone bad. (Look for the signs. It hangs out with the wrong crowd. Beer cans mysteriously show up in your Z. Your wallet is missing after you sit in the Z. ) For diagnostics, check the voltage at the downstream side of the fuse with the key in the ON position. (See the attached PDF for the fuse location.) If you don't have voltage, replace the fuse and try again. If you still don't have voltage, you'll need to check the connectors upstream, ignition relay, and fusible link. If you have voltage there, check the voltage at the flasher. The green wire is your positive, and it should be hot when the key is in the ON position. If you have voltage there, check the voltage at the connector in the steering column. It's the white wire. When you hook up your voltmeter or test light, you should see the voltage fluctuate as the flasher operates. If you have no voltage on the white wire, replace the flasher. That should be enough to get you started. 76 280Z Turn Signals.pdf

To clear a windshield washer nozzle, unwind a stiff spring and use that wire to probe into the nozzle from the exit side. The small wire gauge of the spring should be able to go into the nozzle, and the stiffness will allow you to push it in. After you have made some attempts to clear the obstruction, do as Dennis suggests.

To be perfectly honest, it's not so much a phantom issue but a lack of knowledge in how to diagnose. If a battery keeps running down, two of the most likely culprits are a bad battery or a bad charging system. A faulty voltage regulator or alternator can discharge the battery. Note: My preferred way to do an initial test of a bad regulator or alternator is to hook up an ammeter to the battery (Search online to learn how to use one.) and disconnect first the alternator and then the regulator. If the current draw drops, you found your culprit. After that, I would look at any electrical "add ons" in the car: alarm system, stereo, etc. Next comes the "faulty switch". This can be the glove box door not closing fully, leaving the light on, corrosion in a switch causing contact even when "off", etc. This takes more patience since you have to pull fuses or loads (lights, buzzers, stereos, etc.) and watch for a current drop to find the circuit. Oh, by the way, expect a draw when the car doors are open. The dome light will be on. Now, if you are replacing the alternator & regulator with an internally regulated 60A alternator, you may already be curing your battery drain.

Yes, it is.

I can't tell you. I have to review wiring drawings frequently for my job. You get used to finding mistakes like that. What bugs me is when I issue drawings to a customer and find more drawing mistakes. D'Oh!

No When starting the car, the same wire from the ignition switch that powers the solenoid energizes the coil for the fuel pump. When the engine catches, the alternator will be turning fast enough for it to generate enough voltage to coil. The actual source from the fuel pump doesn't change. Only the switch that completes the circuit changes. There is a chance you already have the fuel pump wiring fully in place for a 73. I'll try to dig around and locate the wires you should be looking for.

This relay, RY-199, from Standard Motor Products looks like it might work for the ignition relay. I've added an image of a Z ignition relay for reference.

Yes, I've seen that one, too. Since I didn't have a 280Z to tear into, I didn't mention it, though. I was trying to help someone on facebook with replacing the ignition relay. Some day I'll have to post how to use a DPDT relay to use as a substitute. On the other hand, I think SMP has a replacement ignition relay...I'll see if I can find the part number.

Look for loose or missing bolts on the driveshaft.

I was at The Classic Motorsports Magazine Mitty at Road Atlanta in 2010 when Pete Brock was there. I had two posters all ready for him to sign. One was for me, and the other was for my nephew. My copy hangs at my desk at work. I didn't get to see John Morton up close, though. At the 2011 ZCCA convention, I had a nice drawing of a BSR 240Z that Bob Sharp graciously autographed for me, and I promptly put it back in the frame.

If you're still using the 280Z ignition module, you could change to a GM HEI ignition module.

Rockauto does carry replacement ignition modules.

The US 260Z used flattops. It was not fuel injected from the factory.

There's nothing like getting empirical data to figure out what's going on. I took current, voltage & resistance measurements to figure out what I didn't have right. Blue/red should go to green/black. That is the 12VDC for the motor. The blue & blue/yellow from the Z should be connected as I suggested. Try the blue/white from the Z to the blue/white on the motor for the parking function. If that doesn't work, try the yellow on the Z to the blue/white on the motor. (The last is a guess. I traced the yellow wire to the heater subharness. I wasn't expecting it to go there.)