SteveJ

Pete is certain to draw a crowd if the event promotes him properly. Look at his interview in a recent Car & Driver. He was involved in the design of the split-window corvette and Daytona Coupe on top of his exploits with BRE. I met him when he came out for the Mitty in 2010. He was great with autograph seekers. I know. I got him to sign two event posters. One was for my nephew, and the other hangs right behind my monitor at work.

Are you sure you didn't damage any spark plug wires? Are you sure they are seated fully on the plugs? Are you sure you put the right wire on the right plug? Did you use NGK plugs?

It doesn't seem too strange when you account for tooling costs. Enlarging the gas tank forced the spare above the old well. Nissan compensated with the deck. Instead of spending extra money that would not garner any profit, they left old tooling unchanged for the tool pocket.

I took another look and updated it so there is a thumbnail of the diagram at the bottom. Clicking on that thumbnail opens the circuit diagram. Thanks for your feedback.

You can download the drawing or PDF file. Then you should be able to see it in all of its glory.

Okay, it took a few hours, but the first analysis is done. I built up a good library of Visio 2003 objects to make my next subject go a little easier. It was a good learning experience, too. I hope this helps someone. Hazard Lights - Brake Lights - Turn Signal Circuit Analysis

It looks like you still have some head gasket material left on it. Did you use the stripping cleaner after this picture? Have you checked the head to see if the mating surface is true?

I haven't added much to my blog in the last week. I just documented my start on the effort to create enhanced drawings of the 240Z circuits. Taking Shape | Fiddling With Z Cars

That's cuz we're Amuricans, gosh darn it. Yur sposed to do things OUR way! (This probably sounds funnier than it reads.)

Jared, You should bring your 10th anniversary edition out to a Georgia Z Club meeting or to Caffeine & Octane sometime.

I'm beginning to see a credit card to PayPal in your future.

Motorsport! Billet Aluminum Door Dove Tail Set, 70-76 240Z, 260Z, 280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport! Door Dove Tail, 70-76 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

As I said to someone facing the same issue, "I'm glad I didn't glue down the cap on my 73."

So, let me make sure I understand...I'll find the wires wrapped in yellow tape, right?

Great, now I am compelled to find the footwell light wiring in my car.

Yes, it is the same.

Okay, after looking at the wiring diagrams, I can say with fair certainty that your switch isn't the issue, even if it's from a 73 240. By the way, here is the legend that Nissan used in the manuals. B - Black G - Green L - Blue R - Red W - White Y - Yellow The first color is the main color of the wire and the second is the stripe (if any). Let's use that convention since it will match up to the drawings. Refer to pages BE-14 and BE-16 from the factory service manual. I'll trace out the circuit for you. Follow along on those pages. The positive wire from the battery goes to the W wire at the starter. The W wire goes through the fusible link to the shunt. Out of the shunt, it is WR. The WR goes throught connector C-6 into the body harness and on to the fuse box. It goes through a 20A fuse and out to the GL wire. The GL wire goes back through connector C-2 and over to the connector at the combination switch at the steering column and into the switch. The wire comes out of the switch GW. It should split once with one branch going to the parking lights and the other going to the dash lights. The branch going to the parking lights should branch again between front and back. The GW wire goes out to the bulbs and back to ground through a B wire. For the dash lights, the GW wire branches to each bulb in the light string and comes out RL. The RL wires join together at the rheostat and from there, goes out a GW wire to ground in a B wire through C-4. Unless someone crossed wires in the dash harness, I can't see how the dimmer switch could affect your parking lights.

Good news. The ring and locking plate are the same as for the 240Z as your car. The locking plate part number is 17343-14801. The O ring part number is 17342-18000. If you can wait, try contacting Courtesy Parts or nissanparts.cc for them. They are a lot cheaper than other sources if the parts are still available in the Nissan supply system.

The listing says new, but they are about as new as I am.

Wow, they dried up finally? I'm glad I got mine when I did. By any chance, have you tried Nissan? Part number 26740-89904. Try Courtesy Parts or Nissanparts.cc

Phil, was that from the project that was posted at zcar.com?

The 74 headlight switch has one nine-pin connector (parking lights and wiper). It also has single connectors for a black wire (ground), white/red wire (power coming in for the headlights and parking lights/dash lights), and red wire (headlight power to the fuses). There is also a black wire (ground) with a connector that allows two wires to be plugged into it independently. If you really think your headlight switch is hosed, you can actually still buy a new one. Rockauto has them for $157. I have one in my 260Z. Compare it to yours: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HLS1026. First verify that you have a good, functional switch. Inspect the nine-pin connector closely. That's the one for the parking lights, and I have seen signs of overheating there. What are the wire colors going into the unplugged connector? Be sure to download the 74 FSM from the link below. The BE section does a very good job of breaking down the circuits for you to troubleshoot. In particular focus on pages BE-10 (headlights), BE-14 (parking lights), and BE-16 (dash lights). After comparing what the manual says to what you see, post your findings and questions, and we can probably give you a path from there.

Here's a picture from the parts catalog along with the 240Z/260Z fuel tank for reference. I have replaced the sender on a 260Z without dropping the tank, and the sender on the 76 is in a similar location.

No they are easy to replace. Remove the right rear tire and access panel. You should have a direct shot at it from there.

They are fun cars, but I've heard that replacing the apex seals is a royal pain.