SteveJ

The corrosion I'm referring to would be inside the engine, so it wouldn't matter where it was from. It would be more like how it was treated. Not using the proper coolant mixture could lead to corrosion inside the coolant passages. Overheating could cause warping of the head/block to the point where the head gasket wouldn't seal. Improper torquing of the head could result in an improper seal as well.

Teflon tape & brakes? I don't think that's a good idea. You could introduce debris into wheel cylinders and calipers. Edit: Interesting link - http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/is-teflon-tape-okay-for-use-in-a-brake-system/36652/page1/

When the car has not been driven, raise the front wheels off the ground and try to spin the front tires. Do they spin freely, or does it seem like the pads are dragging? Have you tried pushing the calipers back? If only one side is dragging, I would suspect a caliper. If both sides drag, I would be more suspicious of the master. Try looking through the brakes section of the FSM and see what it says about adjusting the rod on the MC. I know I had it out of adjustment on the 240 when I replaced the MC & booster years ago. I was much more careful about the measurements the last time I did it. Also, did you ever trace the leak in the MC? Could it have been from a bad booster? Really you haven't ruled out anything, yet.

Actually, neither the carburetors nor the fuel injection on these cars proves to be that much of a challenge. The documentation for both systems are readily available. Heck, I helped someone get his 280Z fuel injection running just with a few messages over Facebook and a couple of phone calls. This was without me ever even touching a 280Z fuel injection system. If I can figure either the carburetors or fuel injection out, it can't be that difficult.

I think it may be a fiberglass bumper. Removing the original bumpers is a popular weight loss technique for the 280Zs. Edit: As I looked through the eBay pictures, I noticed that he snagged the picture I took of his engine bay.

I am familiar with car number 2. It was parked close to me at the April Caffeine and Octane. It's the one next to the blue chair. The seller is parting with the car due to health issues. I have a vague idea of where his reserve may be. How much do you want to spend? It is a 280ZT engine swap. I'm not sure what 240Z parts you think it has. I don't recall seeing any. Edit: Changed month to April for Caffeine and Octane

Is there any chance there is corrosion in the block or head that has allowed the oil & coolant to mix?

Well, it was the first Sunday of the month. Yes, the weather was lousy, but some of us were determined to get out there. Caffeine and Octane ? May 2013: Riders on the Storm | Steve's CARtography

Not an R200? I would wonder if an R180 would stand up to Chump Car abuse, especially with a 350. By the way, we met at The Mitty. Edit - You might be able to get one from Eddie Radatz. I'll bet he has some laying around.

So that's the fuel pump relay.

What happens if you retard your timing a few degrees?

I could be wrong about the relay. You may need to download the 73 FSM to get info on the automatic transmission. The 72 manual doesn't have it, not even the hardcopy I have. The transmissions must have been covered in a separate manual for that year. Anyway, the AT section describes the operation. There should be a switch on the throttle pedal that closes a switch. That switch completes the circuit that should activate the kickdown solenoid on the transmission. It doesn't talk about a relay. If you know how to use a multimeter, I suggest looking for the switch on the throttle pedal. It should have green wires. See if one has continuity with the green wire going to the relay. Also check continuity to ground on both of the black wires. I suspect one of them does not have continuity. Also, can you remove the relay from the car and post the part number?

Okay, I believe that is the kickdown solenoid for the automatic transmission. Does your car still have the automatic? By the way, I'm glad you found the posts useful. If you need a switch rebuilt, contact Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain.

Are you referring to this? Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars or Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars I see the guy who did these pretty often. Refurbishing the switch isn't rocket surgery. You just tend to break off the tabs off the switch cover. The FSM does not have a connector listed like you describe, though it could have been an omission. Can you post some pictures? Also, you may want to edit your signature to indicate you have a North American model. That will help in identifying some of the correct nuances of your car.

Look at the 72 FSM instead. On EE-2 it shows the connectors for non-North American cars. The only green wires I could identify in the FSM for non-North American cars were power for the fuel pump, power for the turn signals, and power for an electric fan in the engine bay. I guess this begs the question. Do you have a right-hand drive Z? If so, hopefully someone like Alan, who is more familiar with non-North American cars than I am, will speak up.

I stand corrected. That's what I get from looking at only the wiring diagram which makes it look like the starter relay was a normally open contact. EF-7 does show it's normally closed.

However, if you connect the wires at the emergency switch as I described in post 19, you NEVER have to worry about the seatbelt interlock relay failing. Not entirely accurate. The fuel pump relay is energized while starting.

Thanks for the link, Steve. I just met someone at the Georgia Z Club meeting who may need to replace the ignition box in his 260Z. I was going to look at adapting the HEI to drop in.

Ah, but it is a computer. It's an analog computer. Analog computer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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I talked to Eddie Radatz. He says he has one. You can find his contact info at Z Parts Warehouse

Seems high to me, but I haven't been pricing them.

They were not OEM on the 74, but lots of people swapped them in because of vapor lock issues. That said, there are a few of us who have no problems with the flat tops. Get a 72 FSM and start looking through the EF section to see how to tear it down. For reference, it looks like you have 3-screw roundtops. You may want to wander over to the Ztherapy site and get their Just SUs video.

Per the link I posted, yes. Also, here: Black Dragon Automotive - Parts & Accessories for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7

No, I was just curious. I'm only allowed two project cars, so I'm not trying to get any more. It isn't Lee's car, is it?