SteveJ

Not necessarily. Sometimes there is corrosion in the light sockets themselves. If the corrosion bridges the gap between the positive and negative, it will act similar to a short. Also look for splices in the wiring where you or a previous owner added something. To get a better handle where the issue resides, use the FSM. Go to the BE section. You want pages BE-15 and BE-17. 1. Remove the fuse. It is the 20A fuse in the top right slot. You will need a way to test for a short. Method 1: Use an ohmmeter to measure from the right fuse clip to ground. Method 2: Use a test light in place of the fuse. When the light is on, you have a short. 2. Turn on the lights to the running light position. 3. Use Method 1 or 2 to see if there is a short. 4. If so, disconnect connector C3. 5. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light. (Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later.) 6. If there is still a short, disconnect connector C5. 7. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C5 and the front marker lights/turn signals. 8. If there is still a short, it is between the switch and the dash lights. 9. If there is no short in step 8, reconnect C3 and retest to make sure you don't have two branches with short circuits. Let us know what the results are with steps 3, 5, 7, and 9. Then I can give you more diagnostics.

Look at the first generation Nissan Slyvia, then look at the concept cars.

But do they turn in the same direction?

Well, at least use your daily driver to come visit us at C&O tomorrow.

Mike, the user edesonwright is a spammer, too. I'm not sure whether or not it's a bot.

You are on the right track. Are the wires for the buzzer in the steering column connected together or are they connected to the ignition switch?

Okay, those are all different circuits, powered off of different fuses from the turn signals and hazard lights. That description doesn't really tell us what you found. Use the attached copy of BE-10 to follow along with what I wrote below. 1. With the hazard switch unplugged, you had 12 VDC to ground on the green wire? (If not, check the fuse for the turn signals and the fusible link.) 2. With the hazard switch plugged in and the turn signal flasher unit unplugged, you had 12 VDC to ground on the green/yellow wire? (If not, use #3 to confirm.) 3. With the hazard switch unplugged and off, did you have continuity on the hazard switch plug where the green and green/yellow wires would go? (If not, you still have a bad hazard switch. You may be able to take it apart and clean it.) 4. With the hazard switch and flasher unit plugged in, did you have 12 VDC at the white wire in the steering column? (If not, you have a bad flasher unit.) For the hazard lights, use the attached copy of BE-11 to follow along with what I wrote below. 1. With the hazard flasher unit unplugged, do you have 12VDC to ground at the red/white wire? (If not, check the fuse for the hazards and the fusible link.) 2. With the flasher unit plugged in and the hazard switch unplugged, do you have 12VDC to ground at the green/blue wire? (If not, you have a bad flasher unit.) 3. With the hazard switch plugged in and switch ON and connector C-7 unplugged, at the C-7 connector do you have continuity between the green/blue and green/black wires or between the green/blue and green/red wires? (If not, you have a bad hazard switch.) Do those tests as I described, report the results to us, and we can probably give you a better idea of what to do. Please note that there are two flasher units in your car. Make sure you note the wire colors so you select the correct flasher unit for each series of tests. 1977 Turn Signal Circuit.pdf 1977 Hazard Circuit.pdf

Too late. He took a payoff from the other party to avoid filing the insurance.

Blackdragon also has chromed bumpers $700 for a full set.

This is what I see when I go to the links you posted. So it is difficult to tell what you purchased.

I would wait until oil companies or auto companies recommend it.

My guess then is that the 9 LED bulb I bought was a little shorter.

I reported it, but nothing was done.

You're right. He had voltage at the end of the fusible link.

I still have to wonder how I got a 9 LED bulb to fit in mine. There must have been some different supplier of lenses.

If you want to learn about electrical, I can help.

The brake lights do not go through the fusible link. The headlights do.

Yes, it would. I live in NE Forsyth near 306 & 53. Send me a PM if you need help.

Actually you need to link the image because Google will have different results for different people.

Again, does the fuse blow as soon as you put it in, or does it blow when you put the turn signal on left turn, right turn, or either? This is an important question to help you narrow down where the short may be. The Chiltons manual is almost no use to you, especially for an electrical problem. As I said before

It is rather difficult to read your question. If you have an issue with the fuse blowing when you try to use your turn signals, you have a short to ground. First look at the sockets for the light bulbs in the circuit. Excessive corrosion can cause this problem. How long has the car had this problem? If it developed the problem since you had the car, consider any wiring modifications you have made. Also look for any wires that have been pinched, rubbed, etc. If the fuse blows as soon as you put it in, the problem exists between the fuse box and the turn signal switch. You can also find a wiring diagram with the FSM at XenonS130 - S130 Reference. If you are using a smartphone to post to this forum, please consider switching to a computer. The lack of punctuation and capitalization makes it very difficult to understand the problem with your car.

Okay people. I know I'm not the only one working on his/her Z. Anyway, I finally installed the Group Harrington bumper on the 240Z. If you want to read about it, here is the link: Installing the Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars Now what have the rest of you been up to?

I used the 73's mounts IIRC when I did mine.

Not too much, but then again, I moved to a less populated area about 7 years ago.

I didn't notice any problems when mounting the Harrington rear bumper to my 240Z. As for other people selling them, go to Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX and Mazda RX7 Auto Parts & Accessories. They are US $350 for front and $350 for rear.