SteveJ

Yes, Sir. My wife is already planning the trip...me in a Z and her in her air-conditioned station wagon. (At least if there's a swap meet at the convention, the wagon will hold plenty of parts. )

Back 17 years ago, I bought a dash cap for my 73. When I was placing my order, I was warned that 1 of 2 parts would fit. The first one they sent didn't fit. The second fit just fine. Sorry, but I don't have any notes on the details.

Show a picture of the wire and connector in the engine bay.

1. E=Earth=Ground. Typical DC wiring conventions use wire with solid black insulation for circuits connected to ground. Remove the bolt above the E. Slide the ring connected to the black wire over the bolt and put the bolt back. 2. BAT=B. The White/Red wire goes to the battery. 3. Plug it into the T socket on the alternator.

Also, home improvement stores sell closed cell foam for pipe insulation. You have to know what you're looking for because there is usually open cell foam next to it.

And that is the gist of what I put in post #8.

This leads to what I posted earlier. If the concern is to shut off when the engine is not running, the best solution may be to come off the fuel pump relay. IIRC, it will drop out if the oil pressure drops too low. Another possible solution is to use a time off relay connected to the ignition circuit. That way if the car dies while running, you don't immediately lose the lights, but as soon as you turn the car off, the timer would start. That would happen regardless of whether or not the key is removed.

Pictures of the extra parts would be helpful.

It was another Caffeine & Octane Sunday. I love a good excuse for taking the Z out. See the rest...Caffeine and Octane ? August 2014 (154 Photos) | Steve's CARtography

Yes, Julio. I think some 70 Z owners prize them.

Julio, I tried to tell Rob before that the luggage straps could be utilized for extra passengers, but he won't listen to reason.

Actually, you prefer not to have it off the key switch. I don't seem to have a problem about leaving the key in and switched on. Energize a relay off of the fuel pump relay. That's a low current draw and won't affect your fuel pump. Then power the lights through the relay.

Also, if you want exact replacements (and can wait for them), they are available at Courtesy Nissan: Body - Electrical :: 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Parts (S30) 1970-1978 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com. You can also find them at Motorsport Auto Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home

They very well could. Read up before you go: Weather Pack Environmentally Sealed Connectors | Weatherpack Terminals and Seals | White Products Cleveland Ohio.

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is a FUSIBLE link. The wire is different. If you do not use fusible link wire, you could burn up your wiring harness.

No. If you want something that turns off with the engine, You'd probably be better off tapping into a circuit that is energized by the accessory relay.

Wouldn't you know it, they all dried up around here. I hope your move to Raleigh went smoothly.

Before I did my rear struts, I kept applying brake fluid via an oil squirt can around the gland nuts. When I went to take off the gland nuts, they came off fairly easily.

Just in case anybody looks at this thread... When I was getting ready to do the rear springs & struts, I put some brake fluid in a squirt oil can and for two or three days, I would periodically apply brake fluid to the gland nut. While this wouldn't have helped the OP, it did work nicely for me in that the gland nuts came off fairly easily.

This is what I did, based upon advice from an experienced friend. It is similar to what you described. Remove the wheel. Disconnect the brake line. Disconnect the half shaft from the wheel. Disconnect the sway bar if present. Remove the three nuts at the insulator. The assembly dropped down nicely. When reassembling, use a small jack to lift the assembly up. Then attach in reverse of disassembly. I had to do this a couple of times when replacing the springs and struts. Since I had to cut the springs to the desired height (Chevette springs), I got good at it. The third time took me only 2 hours to disassemble, cut, and reassemble both sides.

One of my favorite recent threads on Zcar.com, along with the thread started by the guy trying to figure out how he could be getting coolant in his oil.

I can vouch for what the good Captain says. I happen to have a tie rod end at my desk. (I have parts stashed in many rooms in the house. The air dam on the dining room table is the best.) The baggie should have a castle nut, cotter pin and regular nut along with the zerk fitting.

I actually still have it on and have a new one waiting to be put in.

I put in new SM needles in both the 240Z & 260Z. I also cleaned up the valve cover on the 260Z to remove the soot from the exhaust leak. I finished the day by writing up what I did on the intake and exhaust on the 260Z and posting it to my blog. Intake and Exhaust | Fiddling With Z Cars

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