SteveJ

Precisely. The fuel pressure wasn't leaking down, so I didn't see a need to replace the FPR.

The asking price is really going up. I met someone who sold one for $1000+ a few years ago. I wonder who might be in the market for a $3000+ valve cover.

There should be a plate on the right side of the engine bay. (A PO put the hole in this one.)

Already exists here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/33910-pay-it-forward/

It was tight the last time I put it back on. I suppose it was reaching its fatigue point. The strength of connection will have a direct correlation on the ability of current to flow. A loose connection provides more resistance. I was unhappy with the condition on the cables on my 260Z. That's why I changed them out.

Contact Ron at Zclocks. He knows about the rally clocks. Sometimes you have to do a little digging.

Also, you can probably source a replacement wiring harness from Oliver at http://www.datsunstore.com/. He used to post a lot over at http://www.zcar.com as ZmanofWashington. Again, I've never read any complaints about him.

You can get your clock refurbished by http://www.zclocks.com. I have not used his services, but I have NEVER read any complaints about him or his work.

When I was stationed at Travis AFB back in the 90s, someone was using one as a daily driver. It had a little body damage, but it still was a head-turner.

That's why I only venture toward the perimeter on weekends (or going to/from the airport). Otherwise, I stay well away from the insanity.

That car was owned by Mark Blasko. He sold it a few months back. I mentioned him in earlier in the thread.

Available on Amazon Prime: https://www.amazon.com/Winning-Racing-Life-Paul-Newman/dp/B00XBUEU48/ref=sr_1_2/ref=sr_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&keywords=Winning&qid=1447862097&sr=8-2 I think I'll watch it again this weekend. It was great being able to watch it at the convention. We had the theater packed.

Weber downdraft carburetors...they were commonly swapped in on 73s and 74s, especially in California because the Webers were CARB legal.

Let me re-phrase: You'd have to change the dash and center console, and I don't know what modifications that would entail.

No. I looked into that about 10 years ago.

Dot.

Mike - With adding the scissor lift in my garage earlier this year, I am close to having one at my house.

It might have been the clutch slipping.

Gosh, I almost thought it was a spam post. Phillip, you need to post here more often.

I have many parts link on my blog. The address is in my signature.

Just be prepared to drill into the headlight buckets with that kit. Here's what you'll have to do. 1. Drill 2 holes into one bucket. I would suggest the right bucket. 2. Drill 1 hole into the other bucket. 3. Disconnect the wires from the 9003 sockets (male & female) that are in the kit. (Mark them first.) 4. Thread the wires into the buckets and replace the ends. 5. Plug the male into the socket in the right bucket. Plug the headlights into the new sockets. 6. Mount the relays. 7. Connect the power. You may need an extension by what the site says. 8. Hope that you never blow the one fuse in the kit. That will take out both lights, high and low beam. I'd suggest carrying extra fuses if you buy this kit.

1. They have changed the interface, but it still works fine for me. 2. Your question marks might be changing if you have your keyboard set to Canadian instead of American.

There are 3 types of S30 center consoles that I am aware of. 1. 70-71 2. 72-73 3. 74-78 Within the 3rd type, I'm lumping in the 260Z consoles without a lid since they are completely interchangeable. Having said that, I do not see any similarities between types 2 & 3. The 2+2 has a different part number for the center console than the coupe, though it changes to the same part number for the last of the 78s.

I have a dash sitting around with the rheostat in it. The knob needs to be replaced. I'll check to see if it's good.

The battery was already down once. I'm not sure how old it is. It may be nearing the end of it's useful life.