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SteveJ
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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I've been chasing a fuel starvation myself at WOT. It showed up before my engine swap, but I was able to make the carburetors richer to compensate. Now that I have a 2.8 with higher compression, I have the SUs as rich as I can reasonably make them. My fuel pressure is low, though. You may want to check fuel pressure to verify whether or not that could be contributing to your problem. -
Hang in there. Many of us probably have seen worse.
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Are you finding much bondo?
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Without knowing what else is on the circuit, what controls the circuit, what gauges the wires are, and what is the power draw of the fan, I wouldn't recommend it. Do you have the stock fan mounted on the engine? How about posting a picture of where the electric fan is mounted?
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@Captain Obvious might have some insight.
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It looks similar to this one to me.
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I found its cousin in the Atlanta area: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/cto/6056995502.html $1500 for a roller missing doors, glass, and most of the sheetmetal. Also what is there is somewhat rusty.
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I'm going to say that it will fetch at least $19,000
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No, I'm a sparky. That's why I'm interested in the TIU tester.
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Actually, I'm still diagnosing electrical systems. The ignition module tester would get a workout from me.
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Be sure to post what you find out about the alternator and wiring. It may help someone else out in the future.
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I bet that left a mark.
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So did you get your questions answered?
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I think you're in popular company on this board with those views. My 73 240Z is numbers matching and modified with early bumpers and carburetors and 5 speed to name a couple of changes. It won't fetch the big bucks, though. My 260Z is modified quite a bit including 240Z bumpers, early carburetors, and an L28. I was going to keep it numbers matching, but I got the rebuilt engine for far cheaper than I could have rebuilt the original. I believe that too many in the modified camp think they will get dollar for dollar (or more) back. I just don't see it happening, at least for now.
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By definition, a short is bypassing the load on a circuit, so you never had a short. A cross-connection is a connection between circuits that should not exist. Bleed over is you backfeed a circuit due to a poor/lost source or ground. (An example of that is the dim headlight caused by a blown fuse.) What you have is a cross-connection. It can be caused by using the wrong bulb. It can also by the contacts in the bulb coming together due to a failed insulator. A less likely scenario is corrosion or metallic debris in the light socket. The bulb is easy to diagnose. Remove the bulb. If it has one contact on its base while the socket has two contacts, there's your problem. Unfortunately you give no background on your problem. Is the car new to you? Did this just happen? Did it happen after you changed a bulb? You also don't say what year car you have. I made the assumption that you have a 240Z since the symptoms you described fit the circuitry of a 240Z.
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I thought this was helpful when I was assisting a friend with a GM Alternator on an LS-6 swap into a 240Z: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
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Turn your head to the right. Then you can see it says Delco-Remy. It's definitely a GM alternator. I believe it has connectors for Sense and Lamp, but it won't be a T connector. I would have to see the alternator to tell you where those connectors are exactly. I've only touched two GM alternators in the last 30 years, and I don't have a lot of knowledge on the placement of the connectors.
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Don't forget about @Zed Head and @Captain Obvious. They are on top of a lot of the electrical threads. Heck, I appreciate all of the information provided by others, too. You don't see many questions from me because I have been reading here and find my solutions frequently before I have the problem. I just try to store away as much information from this site as possible.
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