SteveJ

What year Z?

I did notice that one site said the part was discontinued. I hope that isn't the case.

Just to follow up on the initial post... I returned to the scene of the crime today. I cut off the connector because it had some damaged wire and put a new 9003 connector on. Both headlights worked. Here's how the connector looked. You can see missing insulation from the positive and burn marks on the insulation on the high beam wire. My friend had some small BA15 bulbs so I replaced the side marker bulbs. The front left and rear right had corrosion, so I used a wire brush on a dremel to remove the corrosion. The front lights also were attached without the weatherstrip block, so I got those in place to protect the lights better. Afterward I convinced the owner that LED bulbs, especially the headlight bulbs, would be a good idea. I hope he follows up with doing that. Yes, he does have my list.

I added that to my list. It's interesting that the part number comes up as the number for the kit with relays, too.

That's the great thing. H4 housings are H4 housings. The ones from the X1/9 should work just fine. I don't have any photos, but for the people who have that set up, I have never had a complaint. I have those bulbs in both of my Zs. As a matter of fact, I did that for a friend's 280Z, and he then brought his other over for me to convert that one, too.

What part number did you order? I'd like to pass the savings along to others.

I would advise against those, @HusseinHolland. That pigtail on the back of the light will make it where it won't fit in an S30 headlight housing. You would have to cut a hole in the housing to run the pigtail out. Then you would have to worry about water getting into the housings, and you would also have more issues integrating it. To me, it's more pain than it's worth. I can't guarantee they are polarity independent. The Fiat Spider has 2 positives and one negative. The Z has 1 positive and two negatives. If the Holley headlights aren't polarity independent, you'll have even more work figuring out how you can integrate relays into the wiring harness. Holley headlight: Inside an S30 headlight housing: (Image from https://www.zeddsaver.com//collections/exterior/products/restored-headlight-bucket-set) That is why I use Hella 7" housings or Koito housings. Paired with the Auxito H4 LED bulbs. It works. As an added bonus, the Auxito bulbs are not polarity dependent. I know you like to experiment, but please trust me on this one. Here are links to my recommended parts: Hella H4 housings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W or Koito H4 housings: https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70 Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH By the way, Koito is an electrical parts supplier to the Japanese auto industry. You may still have some Koito bulbs in your car. Toshiba was another common supplier back in the day. All together, it would be about $125 to go my route. With the Holley lights, you're starting out over $380, and then you still have the integration issues.

That sounds like a good avenue to pursue.

@Reptoid Overlords is probably thinking there is a constriction somewhere, either in or out, that is limiting the engine speed. That is what I was angling for, too, but starting with fuel. The fouled plugs indicate rich conditions unless the rings are so bad on each piston that you're getting oil into all of them. Too much fuel would overwhelm the spark, but I would expect the engine to die at that point. What I was asking you to do in my previous post was to see if you could correlate fuel pressure to engine performance. Since you don't have the fuel pressure gauge installed, all of this can only be speculation. Data is more important. I was suggesting 500 RPM increments only because it would be easier to differentiate monitoring points. Ideally, you would make a video with a tachometer (from a timing light or multimeter) and fuel pressure gauge in the same shot, then we could correlate the engine sound, engine speed and fuel pressure. (A video done correctly can be very helpful for remote diagnostics. I knew I had an exhaust leak in my 240Z, and I sent a video slowly moving across the engine while the car idling to a friend. He said the leak was around #2, and he was right.) So could there be a restriction in the intake? That is worth examining. Is the flap moving cleanly and easily, or is it getting hung? Is there something in the airbox or between the airbox and AFM (think critter houses) that could be blocking air flow? Could the exhaust be blocked? Again, I would expect the engine to choke and die, but I could be wrong. I have seen several videos online of mechanics shaking a squirrel's stash out of a muffler. Lastly, as I said before, make sure all of the wires on the coil, distributor cap, and plugs are fully seated on the components, especially the coil to cap wire. A weak spark could account for poor performance. Since this thread is already 13 pages, would you please state again the age of the coil, cap, rotor, and wires? Are you on the stock ignition, or do you have a ZX distributor or other ignition?

First, establish the baseline on your fuel pressure. Measure it at idle, and then step through the engine speed at around 500 RPM increments, noting the fuel pressure. See if it starts to tail off. If it does not, then it could be spark. If the plugs are black, why? Is the fuel pressure too high? Is oil getting past the oil control rings? Is the exhaust visible? Is there a lot of soot on the inside of the tail pipe? Is your spark that weak? Do you smell gas in your oil? Pull your dipstick and sniff. Be sure to double check that the plug wires are firmly attached to the coil, distributor cap, and plugs, per my previous post. What fuel pump did you install? What is the flow rate?

If you're worried about the contact, you could remove the heat shrink and stock terminals, and crimp the new terminals like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/314175912098 on with heat shrink. I have to admit that I haven't been following the rest of this thread much. There are too many rabbit holes. For hot restart, look at what can be affected by heat: Fuel rail. Test by parking with the hood open. If the problem goes away, then you could be boiling your fuel. I would install a fuel pressure gauge to verify. If the fuel pressure goes down (FPR leaking down), the chances of boiling the fuel goes up. TIU. Test by having a can of dusting air. If the problem happens, hold the can upside down and spray the TIU. If the problem resolves, replace the TIU. This also applies to the matchbox if you have done the 280ZX distributor swap. ECU. I think I saw someone suggested percussive maintenance. If the problem goes away after you rap on the ECU a couple of times, replace the ECU. I am not sure what you mean about not being able to rev about 20%. If the car won't take load, that's usually a fuel problem. (I looked back on the thread, if the car can't maintain speed, it's likely a fuel problem.) It can be a spark problem if you have a weak spark on 1 or more cylinders. A friend couldn't figure out why his 240Z wouldn't go above 3000 RPM under load. He didn't have an obvious misfire problem, either. He's a very good Z wrench, but he was too close to the problem so he couldn't see the forest for the trees. I started working from the coil down to the plugs. Once I got to the distributor, I pulled off each plug wire, one by one. On #2, the plug wire was not fully seated into the cap, though the insulating boot was firmly over the cap. I got the wire seated against the metal, and the problem went away. Without load, the weak spark wasn't manifesting itself. However, under load, the weak spark from the extra gap caused poor combustion in #2, and the car was running on 5 cylinders. I have a short form video on Youtube at myZcarlife about that.

OEM - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-fusible-link~24161-28500.html

A friend was working on a customer's 78, and there was an issue with the headlights. I took a quick look at it a couple of weeks ago when my friend was hosting a party (It was a great way to decrease the amount I had to socialize.), and it seemed like corrosion in the fusible link may have been the cause. The fusible links were pretty nasty. My friend put in a Maxi Fuse holder, but the problem remained. I went out to take another look today. I saw voltage on both sides of the right fuse when I pulled the ground on the circuit. However, the was no voltage on the downstream side when I had the ground plugged in. I cleaned the fuse holders with a wire wheel, but no change. Neither headlight would light, either. I swapped the fuse for the right headlight with another that was in the fuse box, but that fuse wasn't in great shape. I got another 10A fuse from my friend, and a little while later, I detected that it had blown. Getting nowhere fast in my diagnostics, I talked with @Captain Obvious, but I couldn't provide enough information for a true ah-ha moment. He did make a good suggestion to start using a test light instead of a meter because we both knew I had to get around an impedance issue if it existed. I decided to focus on the left headlight next. I disconnected the headlight and rigged up a jumper between the engine harness connector and the headlight connector. I rigged up another jumper that I could connect to ground. I still couldn't get the left headlight to light up with the new ground. I checked things with the test light. I could get the positive side of the wiring to light up the test light, but the ground leg would not cause the test light to light up. (Hold on to this.) At that point, my friend and I broke for lunch, and I discussed the next steps with him. We agreed that pulling off the headlights would be the course of action because I narrowed down the problem to that part of the circuit. He got the front end on jackstands, and I got the left headlight out. This is what I found. Yikes! Someone thought duct tape would make good insulation. You can see how hot and melty it got. That is the positive wire with all of the missing insulation. Unfortunately I didn't have my headlight connectors with me to replace the bad terminal. At least I found the impedance issue with the left headlight. I'm surprised it didn't pop the fuse. I went over to the other side and pulled the right headlight. I found someone had overfilled it because all of the excess water came out. Okay, so the outer sheath had cracked and without inner liners, water got trapped inside the sheath. I cleaned it up and wrapped it with electrical tape. I decided to put in a 15A fuse since my friend had those on hand and test just the right headlight with the left disconnected. Sure enough, it lit up nicely. I'm not sure what caused the 10A fuses to pop, but I'm going to install a 10A fuse when I go back next week. With the right side operating, I connected the left headlight bulb (H4 housings with halogen bulbs) to the socket and turned on the headlights. The right still came on fine, and the left was dim. I'm thinking the left side was probably getting its power from the right side fuse backfeeding it. Next week I'll return to my friend's place to fix the wiring on the left headlight bucket, and he can have the owner pick up the car. Lessons learned: Follow my own advice and ALWAYS remove the fuse to test it. I was fooling myself early on when I didn't test the fuse for continuity. I know that the headlights can back feed. With a car that you're not familiar with, you don't know what someone might have crossed wiring-wise. (Finding a wire nut in the engine bay is also a BAD SIGN.) Have plenty of the right size fuses on hand when doing the testing. A fuse kit will become a regular part of my road kit for house calls. I keep them in my Z cars, but it wouldn't hurt to have a third for my tool kit. Drill down to the component level to verify diagnostics when you don't have a smoking gun. I spent more time at the entire circuit level than I should have.

There was an error in my list. I can't remember when I found out. This one should work better: Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ1GRJY

It matches what Rockauto lists.

That's exactly why I was looking at the compressor and mounting bracket from Nostalgic AC. It mounts on the other side of the block.

Keep in mind that I didn't say I was able to do it successfully. When I encountered that, the owner's son worked at a Kia dealership, and he had one of the mechanics in the service department tear out the non-functioning AC system. It might be that the system will need to be drained of refrigerant if it's still functional, get the hoses off the compressor, and replace everything after you fix the fuel pump.

You'll have to work the compressor loose and pray there is enough flex in the AC lines.

You'll have to hold his beer.

You gotta love the double-fisted engine starting fluid technique.

If it's a Nissan regulator it is adjustable. If it's aftermarket, who knows?

Just keep in mind, @the_tool_man, if you go with the Frontier alternator, choose from the offerings under New.

I would advise against it. If the voltage spikes more, you could take out your ECU.

Your car has a voltage regulator. I can see the plug. Frankly I don't trust reman alternators anymore. I have been advising people with bad alternators or regulators to do the Nissan Frontier swap. RockAuto lists "new" alternators for the 2000 Frontier 4 cylinder. You have to buy the plug for the sense and switched circuits. That is readily available on Amazon. I also went the extra step to buy the 6 pin Yazaki YPC male plug to make the jumper to remove the voltage regulator. I haven't had someone come back to me about the RA alternators I suggest failing.