SteveJ

At least I know I'm not going to be the only one from ClassicZCars at ZCON.

Here you go, @Captain Obvious. I uploaded @Yarb's video to YouTube. https://youtu.be/uQcu71wOkpw

Probably, try to disconnect the sensor under the passenger seat.

Seen on Facebook... This could likely apply to SUs. How about triple Webers or triple Mikunis?

As long as it's not cancelled, I will be there.

So I did some ZCON prep today. When I replaced the fuel sending unit few years back, I put new terminals on the wires at the sending unit. It worked fine until recently when I lost the signal. I needed to rotate the tires, so with the car on the lift, I figured I would check out the sending unit. The terminals were loose. I used the type terminals found on the connectors used throughout the car, but they are a fraction of an inch too large for the sending unit terminals. I tried a female spade lug, and it fit snug on the sending unit, so I replaced the terminals again. My fuel gauge has a good signal, and my tires are rotated. Next up, I want to do another headlight experiment, and the car should be ready for the road trip.

Did you ever bleed the MC?

The fuel warning light works via resistance dropping at the thermistor in the gas tank as the thermistor heats up. There is not another wire on the negative leg that could complete the circuit during engine start.

You merely joined the long list of us that have made that mistake or one like it. I think I made that one in 2008.

From the 72 FSM, but I don't think it's different from the 71: I hope to assume that the actual reading you had on the secondary was 8.95K Ohms. Based upon that assumption, if you have everything wired correctly, you should have no problems. What is prompting your question?

@26th-Z This is all I could find that seemed relevant: By the way, @Mike, I really like the search features of the software running this site.

I suggest posting photos and taking measurements. There are several members of this site that have an oil pan they could compare your findings to.

Automotive bulbs are rated for 14 VDC. (sometimes 14.4) https://www.bulbtown.com/9428049_GM_General_Motors_Replacement_Bulb_p/9428049.htm https://www.bulbtown.com/274020_GM_General_Motors_Replacement_Bulb_p/274020.htm https://www.bulbtown.com/1813_Miniature_Bulb_Ba9S_Base_p/1813.htm https://www.bulbtown.com/274004_GM_General_Motors_Replacement_Bulb_p/274004.htm https://www.bulbtown.com/363_Miniature_Bulb_Ba9s_Base_p/b363.htm There are probably others within that list. I didn't go down each page.

It wouldn't surprise me if it's an "off-the-shelf" piece that was used in creating the reproduction sending unit. And by "off-the-shelf" I mean that it is designed for a more recent car/electrical system, maybe even for LED lights. That would explain why the light comes on so soon for the incandescent bulbs. Unless ZCarDepot has someone as thorough as the good Captain when specifying the behavior for the reproduction, a thermistor with the wrong curve could have been used.

The Fry's closest to me (about 3 miles from my office) was almost an empty warehouse the last time I visited. Are they back to stocking products?

A pot runs a few dollars (plus shipping since Radio Shack is no more). Low wattage BA9 bulbs were pretty cheap at the link I posted. You would need no more than a 100 Ohm rating on the pot, and then you have to modify the wiring to incorporate it.

@Captain Obvious, do you mean like this? So it seems like the thermistor isn't spec'd correctly from the experiments run by @dmorales-bello. As @Dave WM said, a lower wattage bulb would be higher resistance in the line. In theory you could use a potentiometer to adjust the resistance, but it would be cheaper just to try a lower wattage bulb to see if that's a viable workaround.

If you want to experiment further, here is a site with different wattage bulbs: https://www.bulbtown.com/9mm_Diameter_Bayonet_Base_s/1421.htm

Wattage is proportional to current. It is also proportional to voltage.

I was wondering about the bulb wattage, too, based upon one of the links I posted. So @dmorales-bello, are you game to try a different bulb?

See, now you made me go look. The FSM doesn't have much in the FE section, and the BE section refers to the FE section. I asked my frenemy Google about this and found a couple of interesting threads in other forums. https://www.element14.com/community/thread/56806/l/which-thermister?displayFullThread=true https://advrider.com/f/threads/honda-thermistor-fuel-light-to-led.954021/ As was mentioned earlier, the wattage of the bulb and characteristics of the thermistor come in to play. (Thanks for the re-hash, Steve. Do you have anything to add to the conversation?) I tried a search to see if one could buy a fuel light thermistor. Sure enough, there are some listings on ebay for some Chinesium thermistors. I'm not sure I would want to experiment with incorporating one into an existing fuel sending unit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-Fuel-Level-Sensor-Fuel-Pump-Alarm-Sensor-NTC-Thermistor-/283606453547?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Thanks for the update. I love the easy solutions.

It's the turn signal switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

1. Join ZONC if you're not already a member. 2. Circulate around the club that you want to sell. Many of us encounter people who are interested in buying a Z. I'm sure the ZONC members experience that, too. 3. Consider Bring a Trailer...I'm not a big fan of that site, but there are some here who like it.

As long as it wasn't a solo session...