SteveJ

I also utilized a lot of the stock wiring to integrate my signals from the ECU and its relays for power to the ECU, power to the fuel pump, etc. For the check engine light, I repurposed the choke light.

I believe so. The line was removed, and the port in the t-stat housing was plugged prior to my purchase of the car. I did the Patton Machine fuel injection last year and found that port handy for coolant temperature sensor.

For my FI project, I used a 1/2 BSP to 3/8 NPT adapter on the thermostat housing.

Try Easydrive France instead. http://www.easydrivefrance.com/easydrivefrance_009.htm

I received a package from them just yesterday that was ordered earlier in the week, so I would say they are still in business. Send me a PM with your email address, and I'll send it to someone I know who works there.

Oh, I also found I had 2 sets of Nissan hoses...in addition to the set I just purchased...And I'm still trying to figure out why I took a camshaft someone offered me...at least I think it was given to me...I don't recall buying a camshaft...or that Helix fuel line (According to Amazon that was 3 years ago.)

So I went digging through my carburetor parts in my parts storage today. (Something I should have done months ago.) I found some black Helix Racing Products 3/16 ID x 5/16 OD fuel line. At 3/16 ID, it's a tight fit on the float bowls, but it should work. https://www.helixracingproducts.com/316x-3-fuel-line-black https://www.amazon.com/Helix-Racing-Fuel-Line-Black/dp/B000WK5J0Y It did not kink at a bend radius of less than an inch. It's stiffer than the Nissan hoses, so I will put it on a spare set of carburetors to see if it binds the nozzles. It is tolerant to 10% ethanol and is less than $10 for 3 feet.

From the 73 FSM - Dot 3

Meet or exceed the SAE spec. (from the FSM)

@Mark Maras, Pam at ZTherapy confirmed. part number ZT20 is for the float bowl hoses.

Hmm, I could get a cheap toaster oven from Wally-World.

Thanks. I'll make the inquiry. As far as the other types of hose I'm buying, I am planning on doing some trials on a spare set of carburetors I have to see if the different types have the necessary flexibility as the nozzle moves with the choke.

I measured the outlet of the jet to be about 5.5mm. I ordered a couple of types of 5.5 mm fuel hose from ebay to see if either might be viable. This includes the possibility of creating a jig to heat and mold the hose into shape.

Does ZTherapy hide this product on their site? I don't see it in their master price list or new products.

I ordered a set of those from Z Car Depot. As for what @texasz said, when I get my 73 back on the road, it will have almost exclusively ethanol free gas. I am luck to live near a recreational lake, and many gas stations around me have ethanol free in 87 and 90.

So if you are ever thinking about buying the hose that Z Car Depot (@zcardepot.com) lists as being an alternative to the float bowl hose, don't! (https://zcardepot.com/products/carburetor-su-float-bowl-fuel-line-hose-240z?_pos=2&_sid=6edb73ed7&_ss=r) I used some of that hose on someone's car, and I couldn't figure out why the car wouldn't take load. I went to check the float levels, and this is what I saw when I pulled off the air cleaner. Those hoses aren't going to flow much under load. And I did cut them to the same length as OEM hoses.

I did that on a fuel pump. I transferred the diaphragm from a Delphi pump into a stock housing. I can't give a full report because I have to change out a rotten fuel line at the tank.

I have been working on a 280Z recently whose owner had someone install a rising rate (normally aspirated version) adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The person who installed the FPR did not connect it to a vacuum source. The owner connected the FPR to a vacuum port but reported no improvement in performance. He brought the car to me, and I researched the FPR. It actually called for a stock FPR to be in the circuit with the adjustable FPR. After looking over the car and tweaking some things, I took it for a drive. There was a stumble at throttle tip-in, but eventually it came to life. The wideband AFR meter matched my butt dyno. I could see the car getting really lean on the AFR meter at tip-in. I actually talked with the engineer who designed the adjustable FPR (Corky Bell), and he confirmed that my research was correct. The owner needed a stock FPR added in. So even with the stock ECU, the AFR meter can give you some good data with regard to something like an adjustable FPR. Frankly, I'd like to see a fuel pressure gauge and AFR meter side-by-side.

Differences: https://www.haltech.com/oxygen-sensors-and-wideband-controllers-explained/ If you're doing the O2 sensor for tuning, it's wideband all of the way. If you have a simple EFI system with an O2 sensor input and don't intend to do data analysis, narrow band will work. Mount it after all of the exhaust tubes come together and ALWAYS before the cat. You want to see what's happening inside the engine. How? Drill a hole into the exhaust and weld the proper curvature bung to the exhaust. About any decent muffler shop can do this.

You can download the FSM from Xenonzcar.com. Here is the electrical section: http://xenonzcar.com/z31/FSM/1988/EL.php

I didn't see anything in the options that would preclude you from seeing the album, and @grannyknotwas able to access it. You might try again, and send me a PM if you continue to have issues.

I took the 260Z out to a small car meet called Worship. The people in attendance were hard-core car people, and my car garnered many complements and plenty of interest in the throttle body fuel injection. There was also a modified 70 240Z there, owned by a friend who used to frequent this site. It always feels so great to take the car out for a drive. Here's a link to the rest of the photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k76JqGTjErk1JcFTA

Chances are that you could use some BSP threaded pipe for the crankcase. I'm not sure what size, though.

I didn't noticed that the site I referenced didn't have the two parts of the part number combined.

Crankcase connector pipe, part number 11830-E3000, http://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=86&cartype=11&fig=C1401&page=3