markh55

Thanks. I’ll take it off and inspect it.

More a series of small pops. I had not noticed it before installing the exhaust. Could that be the culprit? Or is it more a matter of tuning as a result of the less restrictive exhaust? Removing the belt from the air pump definitely helped. Thanks for your help!

Thanks. Ive tried leaning out the mixture which doesn’t appear to help much

Yes it did include a dye.

Hi all, new member here. Looking forward to interacting with you all. I have a 1970 CA spec 240z which has a dealer installed Frigiking AC system which was working when I got the car a few years ago but has since failed to function. The system had lost its Freon due to a leak I suppose. In my infinite wisdom, I decided to convert the system to R134a. I installed a new dryer, valve and hoses. Pulled vacuum and no leaks. Then did a full flush before installing the correct PAG oil (approx. 12oz) and Freon. All worked great. A few days later I noticed a PAG oil leak under the compressor but couldn’t tell where it was coming from (not from the hoses). I evacuated the system (no leaks there!) and removed the compressor. The compressor appears to be a rebuilt York. I say rebuilt because it is painted black and has no identification plate on it. I have read it should be a York 713-2 unit. (Photo attached) My question is, should I rebuild this unit, buy a “new” York unit or spend a lot of extra money and buy a Sanden unit, adapter bracket etc? I prefer to keep the car original but know the York units are horribly inefficient and somewhat unreliable. If the suggestion is to rebuild the existing unit, where can I buy the gaskets and seals? Is this something a guy can do at home or are special tools required? Thanks in advance. Mark

Hi all, new member here. Looking forward to interacting with you all. I have a Series 1 240z that is mostly original CA car that was mechanically restored by Rod Schmitt a few years ago. Recently I’ve been having problems with back firing upon deceleration. The only thing I can think of that I have done which may have contributed to this was to install a new MSA exhaust (2.5 inch). Anyway, I contacted Rod who suggested I remove the belt from the air pump to see if that helps. It did a little but she’s still popping off some. I have since rebuilt the original carbs and removed the air pump altogether and verified it is still working, which it does appear to be. Valve clearance and timing set at factory specs. Could anyone please help suggest what could be causing this problem? Could it be a faulty anti-backfire valve? If so, how can I check it? Thanks in advance. Mark