senna21

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

Thanks jpc3006-1. I'm assuming that'll be the side with the Black wire? Voltage measurement there is 10V and on the other side is right around 6V. That's with the ignition to the "ON" position, as the car's not currently able to run. Voltage at the battery is 12V. On a more positive note, the clock actually works. Who would have thunk it? It's just ticking away...

Also found this at the front of the car next to the passenger side lamp housing. 😐 New engine bay harness has already been ordered from Restoration Classics along with vent hoses. I've also gotten their zinc hardware kit and complete weatherstripping but ordered it through Summit racing. Same price but shipping was free with Summit.

Now on to the second part of help I'm in need of. I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection for the resistor, coil, and distributor. The distributor is a Petronix. Looking at the top of the coil the +Positive is on the left and -Negative is on the right.

Hmm... Ok. I can't seem to find the Black/White and Green wire. There doesn't appear to be anything tied in under the electrical tape, or at least that I can tell. I've attached some pics if any of you can spot that connector or where it might be point it out. cgsheen1, noted about the fuse and impact sensor, those will certainly be added to the growing list. 3059B833-18DE-4968-9712-208BCEC811BC.heic 9820C1D0-2E57-48D3-9CF3-963FCA9666BE.heicE07385F0-A81B-424C-8081-247F872673BE.heic

I'm a new owner, recent purchase of this car: Bring-A-Trailer Auction 71 240Z I've gotten the rust fixed and am trying to get it to a reliable, driving car. Lots of things were wrong that weren't mentioned in the action. Like a leaky fuel tank and bad brake booster. New booster and master cylinder has gone in this holiday and also installed a Nismo fuel pump at the rear to get rid of the electric pump that was mounted to the block and wired to the ballast for power. I wired up the Nismo and no joy. I pulled the connections and put a volt meter to the black and green wires at the harness and I'm getting nothing. I've got extensive experience with working on cars, worked as a race mechanic during the 90's on Formula cars, and some GTs. Have owned two other 240Z (a 73 and 70) and have owned a 91 Toyota MR2 since 99 and done almost everything on. BUT, I know very little about wiring. So this is going to be a big learning experience, please help me out. Where should I start? I've looked a the fuse box and there doesn't seem to be any thing there for the rear pump. When I pulled the electrical tape to free the two wires for the pump a lot of dust came out of the female connector and I gave it a good squirt of electrical cleaner and let it dry overnight. But as I'm not getting power I don't thing that's the issue. I have a temp mounting bracket for the pump. Please see the pick and thank you in advance.

Any update. I suspect a gas tank from S30 World might be in my future along with Vapor Lines from Resurrected Classics.

New owner of a 72, first post here, and am having the same problem. I'm surprised everyone's focusing on ignition and not vapor lock? I'd owned two other 240Z's in the past and ran a Mallory Unilite in both and they were spot on. I'd be surprised if that's the cause here but I've been wrong before. Knowing what the issue here might help me as well so very curious about the solution.