Toiletduck34

I am in the process of restoring a 280z where i will be adding the Rocket Bunny kit. This kit adds 4 inches to the width of the car so i will be adding larger tires. I've been doing research and found a few articles about current builds with this kit and they are running 17x9.5, -15 off set (FRONT), 17/10, -25 offset (BACK). or similar with 16 inch wheels all with the stanard bolt pattern 4:114.3/4:4.5 I am trying to find options and basically cant unelss they are completly custom which i probably dont want to afford. I technically found a way to do it with 5:120 bolt pattern and a more typical offset around +25 but i would be running 50mm spacers which isnt the best idea. I do like the deep lip offset look of the tires which i would lose by doing this. any suggestions?

Man this guy wasnt a good welder. Instead of cleaning up the welds he just added 1/2 inch of bondo to smooth over it. Luckily 70% of the welds didn't even penetrate so they were easy to cut off

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

This Cowel only had screws that were accessable from under the hood then had tabs that were held inplace with some rubber inserts... besides the welded edges to the fender. lol

Success! I should be able to salvage the fender and cowel.

I'm glad its not common. the previous owner did some weird stuff to this car in the 80s to make it look a certain way. im not so happy im the one who chose to remove all this bondo and booger welds. Ohwell. i guess this is what i signed up for when i wanted a project car. hopefully there isnt as much rust on this car as others.

Is it common for these cars to also Weld the Cowel panel to the fender? I just grinded down the bondo he put connecting the fender and cowel and its welded as well. I dont think he though anyone would ever need to replace the wiper motor. haha. might need to buy a new cowel :S

to be honest i havent even looked at the exhaust. Im assuming it does have cats. I did have a 10K potensiometer laying around and tested this hack from siteunseen and it did work when setting the ohms to ~1000. Car reved to 4500-5000 before shifting without any hesitations. im not planning on driving aggressive at all. but just trying to get the car running well.

searching for a potentiometer is not so easy now adays. i miss radio shack.

Thank you for that info, ill see what i can get done. i would like to see if this would be a main cause and a fix verse a bandage. In the long run im doing to be redoing most of this with more modern technology so it might be a moot point.

I've been getting a 1977 280z up and running after ~20 years sitting. I've replaced all fuel lines, pump, tested for vacuum leaks, etc. I feel like ive tried to tune this thing with the AFM, TPS, and idle screw. If finally have it idling around 800-900 rpms and good power up to ~3000 - 3200 rpms then it feels like it loses engery and sounds like an airy fart. sorry but i dont know how to explain the feeling/sound. it doesnt sound like its about to die b/c its at higher RPM but it feels like it loses all get it up and go. it tried to increase RPM but does very slowly. this is very apparent on 1st and 2nd gear. When i shift into 3rd and 4th i am going fast enough im dont want to floor it. What should i be adjusting? ***side note*** when not in gear I can rev the engine 4-5000+ RPMs and it revs beautifully without hesistations. only when under load.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

Thank you for that information. Yes last night i opened it up and found one of the spring contacts was missing entirely and the other one was severely bent. I attempted to create my own but was unsuccessful. Im going to take it apart again today to see if i can repair.

I've done more research and grounded one of my headlights and that works. I've now moved on to the rear running lights which are not turning on with the headlights. I am getting no 12V send to just the running lights. the breaks, reverse, and turn signals all work fine. looks like im not getting any 12v to the green/yellow. I tried following to C10 but no luck at this point. Im trying to open each connection to clean them but they are extremely stuck.

I am going through my project car and trying to track down why the headlights arent working. The headlights and running lights are not working. Testing the connections i am seeing the the ground has power. While tracing the wiring back and testing the combination switch behind the steering and the hi/low switch crumbled to bits and broke. I am going through the 1977 wiring diagram and trying to understand what goes where but i cant find the short and its useless. can i get a good wiring harness or partial harness?