morgan12

Idle and acceleration seem to be the problem. It cruises fine.

Hmm. I guess i will rerun the noid light test and then the fsm injector circuit test . What igniton tests do you recommend.

What i mean by " rough" the car starts easily, ( with an unplugged cold start injector ) , the car ildes fairly consistently, it does not stumble when settling back to idle it just sounds like a lumpy cam in an old Chevy or how the engine sounds when you retard the timing too much at the distributor . As for the afm I have not opened it up but by the look of the copious amounts of silicone holdingthe cover on i beleive someone has.

Hey everyone! I'm happy to say my datsun runs well enough to drive, however I beleive it has two problems . So I have a new regulator, new plugs, new injectors and checked the plugs and looked perfect, milky white insulator and electrodes looked polished ( too lean?) Literally the electrodes and ground of plug look like shiny bare metal . This is interesting because I began this journey with plugs that looked like dry dusty soot . (( Hella rich) so, also have new temp sensor ) i beleive someone has changed the afm settings in the past I welcome any opinions . So my question is should I consider the preload or the postion of the door. It is clear someone has been in afm . Thanks also it seems plug three is splash fowling but that's another problem I guess

Yes thankyou! I want sute how that was supposed to work also Thank-you for the recommendation for the efi Bible I have read it and looking forward to doing some of the trouble shooting, the throttle position sensor test looked especially useful ! Thanks to everyone and i am sorry if i missed replying to anybody your all a huge help! I will continue to post my progress in so maybe someone else can benefit from all the info!

I think that will be the name on this datsuns folder it seems to fit .

Exciting news! Cylinders 2 and 5 seem to have faulty injectors! As per the fsm prescribed method for testing them!

There is also no continuity at the fuel pump contact points.( 10 and 20 ) the test performed by checking for continuity at these pins with the air flow meter door depressed .

Well. I have blown out my fuel lines and replaced the fpr. The car started would idle terribly and the engine would not accelerate i let it run some and then checked the plugs AND THEY WEREN'T FOWLED! Next thing I did was a smoke test on the vacume sytem there seems to be a significant amount of leakage past the throttle plate as I introduced the smoke into the intake behind the throttlebody, yet it poured out as if the throttle was open. Any advice about ? Is it a faulty bccd aar? It doesn't seem right to me . So next I went back to the continuity tests in the fsm , but when I got to air flow meter pins the pins in the harness are empty. (Where as the schematic lists them as being used by the air flow meter .) There are pins at the indicated location for the airflow meter temp sensor. But there is no continuity .(6 and 27) I suppose I will go on with the continuity tests but if anyone has a 77 specific fsm continuity test sequence for the airflow meter it would be greatly appreciated. Well. So it goes thanks again everyone!

Yes that made finding the groove difficult what led me to all this is the constant fowling of plugs, I have done all the continuity tests up to coolant temp switch and sensor ( which i have replaced) and the airflow meter ( which passed its on car continuity test by the fsm procedure. It would start and seemed so far out of time i could not get a reading with my timing light . Aswell the distributor needed to be maxed out at advance to get close to an 800 rpm idle . Any attempt at driving it results in instant heavy plug fowling, dry thick black soot , (massive extra fuel there ? ) the ecu has been replaced as seems to be for a 79 manual ( i am a 77 manual so who knows how that is doing well or not) any opinions are welcome and all the advice so far is greatly appreciated. I have a small towing company in sanford n.c so I would be happy to help any local members in that area if I can. Its a cool car and I hope to get to a reliable state so someone else can enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed these z 's. Thanks again everyone !

Ok I tried to get a better photo and took the advice to set my marker at the crank on zero .this on compression stroke as indicated by the distributor being at no1 cylinder postion . It looks like the window is lined up with cam plate near no. Cam postion , does this mean the Cam has been adjusted to the second postion for chain stretch .?

Hi! Any help and opinions are welcome here are two photos one shows my crank timing that seems to be about 12 degrees below tdc, the other is the position of the cam when the cam pulley aligns with the notch in the cam plate. Its my opinion the belt is very stretched . What's yours ! Any help would be welcome, if you want other angles let me know!