72 Datsun 240z

So what do you recommend? Keeping the 1.5 ohms pertronix and 1.5 ballast resistor i the circuit?

The tach is back in commission connected to the petronix ignitor 1.5 ohms with ballast resistor. Its a shame you cannot make the 1972 240z tachometer work with the MSD blaster 2 coil. Car was running fine at idle and no hesitation or misfiring even when coming out of long traffic jams. Been fighting this problem for more than 11 years and thought this could be a solution. I guess the MSD blaster coil has more power and keeps the spark plugs clean. Any recommendation?

Just thinking if he wired it incorrectly could it damage the tachometer?

I would like to clarify that I dont know the specifications of this msd blast 2 coil. I do know it did solve the rough idle and the misfire issue when coming out of a long traffic jam. Its connected to the pertronix 1761 module installed in the stock hitachi distributor. Just wondering if this msd coil compatible with this petronix module in anyway?

My mechanic finally solved the 11 year old problem by resdjusting the carbs with the temperature of the car during traffic jams, 3/4 of the Temp gauge and an MSD blaster coil. Now he is asking me for a diagram or schematic to get the petronix 1.5 coil and 1.5 ballast resistor running and the 1972 240z tachometer working alltogether. Can seem to find it in the web or haynes manual. Do you have any reference for this? Guess the stock tachometer wont work with the MSD blaster 2 coil.

Let me explain this better. My mechanic is trying to fix rough idle issues when my car is at idle during long traffic jams. He removed the Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil and the 1.5 ohm resistor connected to a Pertronix ignitor 1711 module, and installed an MSD Blaster 2 coil. The tachometer in my 1972 240Z is no longer working? Any ideas of how should i wire this so it brings my tach back to life.

Recently swapped my 1.5 ohm Petronix Coil and 3.0 0hm resistor with a MSD Blast coil with no coil. Car runs much more better and does not hesitate on traffic jams. Problem is tachometer is not working. How can i fix this?

My mechanic replaced a pertronix 1.5 0hms coil and 1.5 resistor coil with an MSD Blaster 2, 3 ohms coil. He got a better spark at idle and car runs much better. The thing is the stock 72 240z tachometer doesnt work any longer. Can someone give us directions on how to connect this correctly so it works as it did?

Ahould i retard the timimg from 20 to 17 degrees and then adjust the fuel mixture in both su carbs? This are my engine specs.

My mechanic really sucks. Look at the way he set my timing. He argues that everything needs to be subject to trial and error. I know i have a schneider 274f cam installed but 20 degrees?

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

I didnt posted any guide. Lets do a leak down test first.

I guess after reading this, i believe it's time for me to find a compressor and do a leak down test properly as last resort before opening the engine.

This came with its champion radiator.

Looking for a 1.1 bar replacement radiator cap. Anyone?

Its a pitty as the car is driveable but has this problem during traffic jams.

Why would i sell the car. Its a matter of getting it fixed or not?

Well no good mechanics in Panama. Car temperature reaches barely past half of the thermostat and 3/4 with thermostat. My problem is still under heavy traffic when engine starts to misfire. So i guess we will need to tackle this problem systematically.

My 72 240z has no emmission crap. All of these parts were removed by the first mechanic. We dont need that crap in Panama. Last mechanic doesnt show up. Just giving excuses to finish his work. Nevertheless, he did capped the PCV valve and tuned the carburetors in such a way. He argued that plugs 3 and 4th were getting fouled because oil was getting through the damaged pcv valve to the engine. This kind of logic makes no sense. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not dumb. I'm planning on installing the new PCV valve this Saturday and checking how many turns he gave to each nozzle. To me the car lacks some punch. Any advise on how to tackle this issue and forget about this mechanic would be positive. Im also doing a leak down test on all the 6 cyl and draining the radiator to see if there is any blockage.

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

Maybe i should try to do the radiotor test removing the thermostat to see if the water flows or not!

Long story short, the mechanic i was using in Panama was a total mess. He charged me usd400 for adjusting the carbs, blocking the pcv valve and a bunch of crap such as removing the thermostat and else. The thing is today i installed a mishimoto 167 degrees thermostat, filled up the radiator with water and crancked the engine. I started hearing a strange whistle coming from the water pump and noticed that the water did not flow even accelerating the car. Isnt this strange? Water pump dead or blocked radiator? VID-20250622-WA0013.mp4

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

But whats wrong with rockauto? Arent these ones good shock absorbers? Other suppliers are more expensive.