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I did not think so, but am looking forward to seeing both of your cars sometime in the near furture. Probably later this summer when I get this one back on the road. If that is possible. Even if you got hasseled about the keys some, I am glad you have them as from the pictures of your car they went to the right place. If they would of fit my car I may have been right there with you on that one too.

Sure am glad I was painting that week. Does 237 even have rear window defogger?

Put her in the sunlight the first time this afternoon after paint. She still needs some clean up work. Then reassembly. I am getting real ready for the reassembly to happen. May need some extra strength coffee to make Canby.

Thanks for the kind words Arne, Without the encouragement of these Northwest guys I would not be where I am today. Yes almost all of the work has been done with these hands. There is some coaching and some demonstrations that did happen early on in the metal bumping and shrinking areas partly because I do not own a torch. I have made a couple of trips down to see these guys and their cars. I have come back inspired every time. You need to see their cars in person. I only hope this one will measure up to their standards. Truly a great group of guys to be a hobbyist with. Thanks to all who have helped in this process across the states.

Orange is 918 and looks like this:

After just replacing my right rail I would say there is no damage to yours that needs any more attention then you are giving it. This is one of those places where you have to think is it broke, ie not preforming what it is designed to do, if it is then fix it if not move on.

It should be on the same stud as the positive battery cable located on the top forward end of the starter.

Rust is my friend NOT KEPT ME BUSY ALL LAST YEAR. True fully what "fun in my Z "and "Beandip"told you are true? I have an example of the rusty car done over and will get that posted this summer and fall right now my focus is getting this car on the road.

You may have missed the wires but, at least it is an easy fix. The fusible link is also at the alternator on my 70. But, E is right the only one that would effect your not starting is the one at the starter. If the one at the alternator was bad you would not charge the battery.

I started into this last year not knowing how deep I would get. I will post the differences only saying that the labor was done in my garage with some coaching from the guys in the Northwest area. Also, note I am a electrician. Some one will ask which one is the new ones. I can only say all of them. I will post my experiences on the different areas in tech articles later as I have promised the guys in the northwest. 1970 240z I have owned 30 plus years.

I would take him up on the regulator. It will probably solve your charging problem. Then look into upgrading the system at a later date.

So, if you let the car run does the ammeter return closer to zero? Having the charge up around 40 right after you start the car is pretty much normal as long as it returns to close to zero after a few minutes. What are you running as far as radio and other electronic and electric equipment? All these things play into the equation. Yes, freezing the battery never does them any good. The age of the battery also plays into this equation.

I have to agree with E. I bought a replacement for my 70 for 40.00 It came out of Tennessee.

Not all the Z's are in Portland but, they do have their share. We have several in Washington .

Hope you never have to repaint your car. Silcon and paint do not mix.

Owning a pair of your early shifter boots, seeing the quality I am in for a pair.

What are you trying to accomplish? Keep water out or blend the seam?

Here is a picture of Bryan's shifter boot with the grommet installed. Easy installation, nice fit .

I have one off of my 70 if he needs a pattern. He is already thinking about making those and the e brake boot so, all would match.

Received mine today great job thanks

I used POR Patch to seam seal the panels I repaired. The right quarter panel arch replacement and right inner fender well and frame box. POR Patch is POR 15 thickened to about the consistency of tooth paste. It does the same thing as Will did only is one step instead of several. I later over coated the whole area with POR 15. The repaired seams are blended and turned out really nice.

Arne; I could not find a new manual only radiator. Settled for auto because it is new and less cost then getting mine redone. But, will keep this core for a while incase someone needs it.

Ordered the grommet from Black dragon and it is nothing that was used on a early four speed Z. Looks to be a roadster shifter rubber seal. Looks like I will ship it down to Escalon maybe he can use it on one of his fleet.

I would like to see a price as I am interested in a pair.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-240z-Drivers-Side-Headlight-Bucket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42611QQihZ006QQitemZ160088067711QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here is a metal scoop for sale on EBAY right now. Yes, I bought both fenders last fall. Jim