jmortensen

I remember some time ago these things were worth some money. I have the premiere edition, #3, and 5 other random issues. They were handled carefully and are in very good condition, but not mint. Is there still any interest? I'd like to put them on ebay but don't know where to start it.

The stock TC rod is just about exactly the right diameter to run a 5/8" tap down it. If you don't want to run them due to corrosion, should be really easy to duplicate with a RH and LH 5/8" die, probably 18 tpi.

Less air pressure at 4500' means that you can raise the compression ratio safely. In some areas you'll find that octane ratings at the pump is lower at higher elevations, because higher octane isn't needed there. I remember buying 85 octane gas at a station in the mountains on a trip once. The high octane was 89 or 90. Forced induction cars can also run more boost at altitude too. Take it down to sea level and you might find that you have issues. If it is going to live and die in Reno, or if you don't mind adding some octane booster (not the stuff in the bottles at the gas station) no problem. IMO there isn't a huge power difference between a 9:1 motor and a 10:1 motor at sea level. If you're building it to the limit of the rulebook, then you need to maximize and run on the ragged edge. For most people building a street motor, it makes little difference and the dangers of running the higher compression or the solution of backing off the timing to prevent pinging aren't worth it. Better to run the compression a little lower and be able to optimize the timing. John, I disagree that flywheel weight has nothing to do with hp. It has nothing to do with MAKING hp, but it can have a lot to do with keeping it. How a lightweight flywheel works

Look on HybridZ. Guys are using subaru racks, a couple of us have Woodward racks, Ford, probably some others. A couple of electric ones too.

So you want to drop 350 lbs worth of body panel weight? I don't think that is going to happen. The Z panels are pretty thin to start. You could get a carbon fiber hood and hatch, try to round up some fiberglass doors and front fenders, but I'd guess that this would get you maybe 200 lbs (with the FG doors gutted). Get a 240Z is pretty good advice. My 70 with Autopower roll bar, 5 speed, L28, R200, extra sound deadening, very heavy wheels, and heavy seats weighed in at 2350 lbs.

I've seen it with an R180 too. Guy I used to autox with snapped one.

Moron Lamp FTW.

I ran an E31/L28 combo with ~11:1 compression and wasn't happy with it because it needed 95 or 96 octane to keep from pinging. I think some of that is CA's crap fuel, but I had unshrouded the valves, had ground off the extra spark plug threads, etc. in an attempt to stop the ping. My options were to go bigger on the cam (already had .490/280 cam in there), modify the chambers more, or do a custom piston. After considering those options, I ended up with a V8 that should make 400bhp on 87 octane. If it were my build to do and I had the option of the E31 or the P90, I'd do the old shave and shim trick on the P90 and just like Steve said, get it to ~9.5:1 compression. That P90 has a great chamber compared to the E31, and 9.5 is a nice CR as you can avoid the detonation and still run all the timing you want with pump gas. If you do go with the E31, go BIG on the cam if you want it to run on pump gas. As I mentioned to you on FB, Sunbelt has those cool single spring cams and Rebello has some pretty big cams too.

Moves the piston too far away from the head, killing whatever quench you may have had.

Whatever you do, the attachment mechanism is going to get between you and your work. Having the standard rotisserie brackets connect to the end of the car leaves the floorpans, frame rails and body panels exposed. Having two big rings around the body might make it less accessible to work on particular parts of the car.

R&Ps are matched sets. I've never heard of anyone selling a ring or pinion separately for that reason. Have seen the odd instance where a guy tries to change from a 3.70 to a 3.90 by installing a 39 tooth ring gear onto a 10 tooth pinion out of a 3.70 and that absolutely does not work.

The only dial type that I've ever seen in Snap-On and it's $250 last I checked. A cheapo beam works, and you want to spin it just fast enough that you overcome the stiction so the needle doesn't bounce around.

Used to sell diff parts, business failed. Didn't do a lot of installs, but I've done more than most people at about 10.

Yes, and typically the pinion depth shims won't change from ratio to ratio. They'll change from housing to housing usually. So start with what was in there already.

Swapping a ring and pinion requires 4 settings: pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload, and backlash. It's not rocket science but you can't just throw it in there and set backlash and go. Here is a generic set of instructions mostly geared towards American cars and trucks: http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/HowTo/TechnicalInstructions/Yukon_Installation_Kit_Instructions.pdf

There was a 4.375 out of the Skylines (R31? R32?). Finding a loose ring and pinion is going to be big bucks and installing is not easy. I'd suggest you just look for the whole diff.

$350 will most likely buy you a used welder, no gas, no mask, no gloves, no wire. You really need more than the welder to get started. Used I'd budget $500 at least. For new you'll need closer to $700. I have the Miller 135, the Lincoln 135 is essentially equal quality. Both are VERY good units. The Hobart doesn't have as great an ability to fine tune one of the parameters (heat and wire speed). If memory serves it has 5 click settings for voltage, but has infinitely variable wire speed, where the Lincoln and Miller have infinitely variable settings for both. If you have 220V available, a 220V welder is more flexible and you can weld bigger stuff later on if you want. Penetration is just not an issue with 220. Of course, it's more expensive... A good welder will allow you to do nice welds within a few hours of getting the thing up and running. A crappy welder will never give good results. Spend the money and do it right.

If you have a rusty car and you spray some sort of protectant on it, that won't make the rust that is already in the rocker magically disappear, but it might make the progression of the rust slow down or stop. The fact that the rust was all stuck together indicates that whatever was sprayed in there penetrated all those layers of rust.

FWIW, I bought CorrosionX to spray in my cavities. Wait, that didn't come out right... This stuff is pretty highly touted by the gun/aviation/boating communities. Haven't done the spraying yet. Want to get all the body and paint work done first. https://www.google.com/search?q=corrosion+x&oq=corrosion+x&aqs=chrome.0.59j61j62l2j59l2.2407&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=corrosion+x&hl=en&tbo=u&source=univ&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=8XoZUYajN-WujAKOoIDQCA&ved=0CFMQsxg&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42261806,d.cGE&fp=e6bb16c83cc7170b&biw=1680&bih=925

Steve Parmley had another solution to that. He attached a post and added barbell weights to it to balance it out so that he never has to fight the weight. Just change the weight as needed. Take your doors and hatch off too, before you spin it with something not totally latched shut...

Looks like you've got plenty of height there. Congratulations on getting it done. Now you can show EVERY person that walks though the door and bathe in the sound of the stunned WTF's that result.

Ah... oops. XD

Is this the twilight zone?!? I don't want to tell you what is in your garage, but it says Ellsworth on it. Bullits are made by Santa Cruz and have single pivots. Bullit: Ellsworth:

The bike is a 4 link. Bullit's have a single pivot.