jmortensen

The 280 takes different steering rack bushings. I don't know if the crossmember or the rack are different. It does have additional reinforcements on the steering rack mounts which makes the 280 crossmember stiffer and therefore very marginally better than the 240 crossmember. There isn't any geometry change or anything like that as you would find in the early vs late 510 crossmembers.

OK, I'll dig a little deeper. In practice, it looks like the stock airhorns HURT performance: So you're talking 4 hp for Norm, who was wringing quite a bit of power out of a weird setup with two headgaskets and hand-sanded pistons and rocker arms. The average Joe who is driving to work and back is probably not going to notice one way or the other. From: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/11877-aftermarket-air-horns-sus-do-they-help-any/page__view__findpost__p__85474

You can cut the stock ones out of your original air cleaner if you still have it. That's what I did. The difference between no air horns and the $250 ones is probably no more than a few hp, so I wouldn't go too overboard.

John. The front wheel bearings are "cup and cone" and the cup (bearing) gets driven into the cone (race) based on the level of preload you put on them by tightening the big nut. If you had a rattling rear bearing, that would be a problem, but any tapered bearing is going to have rollers in a loose cage and rattle until it is packed with grease and installed in the car.

As Datsun intended? Really? That's overstating the case just a bit. Ever driven a Z with K&N's and no air horns? I have. It drives just like a Z. Probably makes a couple hp less than with stacks. Of course, the one I drove had an L28 in a 240, so that was already not the way Datsun intended. And what if you get the super badass TWM airhorns? Aren't they also "not as Datsun intended" since they are really a lot better design?

I think that is what is meant by "smoothing airflow". For my money, I'd rather have no airhorn and a non restrictive filter than an airhorn with mesh on the end of it as is shown in the first picture. Also not good are the airhorn "socks" that slide over the airhorn. Getting the airhorn away from filters and screens is beneficial.

Nice 911! What year? When I worked as a Porsche mechanic I used to love it when those early to mid 80's cars came in. They were the easiest to drop the drivetrain out of for clutches, etc. and IMO they drive a bit more like an older sports car too. Uh... wut? I am guessing you've never actually been under a 911. Comparing the 911 suspension to the 280ZX makes a lot more sense (both semi-trailing arm).

Normal. The side gears and pinion gears inside all have a bit of lash, you're just feeling it through the halfshaft. If the halfshaft moved up and down a lot or the car made some hellacious noise when you turned, then you should be worried, but what you're describing is normal. Also normal to be able to twist the driveshaft a little bit before the halfshafts start to move.

That is a different facet pump than I used. Mine looked like this, although not sure if this is the exact one: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=facet+fuel+pump&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=11233075390286746526&sa=X&ei=kOyqTq7uFu_UiAKpybDtCg&ved=0CHUQ8wIwAg

Not Trans AM. IMSA GTU. Steve Parmley has a bunch of pictures of GTU cars here: http://sites.google.com/site/zlalomz/imsagtuz

I used a Facet for a little while on my car after my Carter pump failed and I managed to limp to an auto parts store. Facets are very quiet, but they are supposed to be pretty notorious for failling. That Carter ran deadheaded for years, and I got it with the Mikunis that I bought from a guy who had probably run it for years before I got it. The Carter was louder than the facet, but I understand the Holley is on a whole new level... Here is a link to the Carter on Summit, according to the rumors around these parts, it supposedly is a lot more reliable than a Facet: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4070/

"Democracy is two wolves and a sheep deciding what is for supper." -Ben Franklin

Gordon's site is the best. He's really helpful too if you ever contact him. On that R180 LSD there probably aren't any available parts, so all you can really expect to do is shim the thing to the desired breakaway. With the carrier out, you can put one stub axle in a vise facing up, plug the carrier onto it, and then plug the other one in on top and then use your torque wrench and lever as he describes to test break away. I can verify his ideas about adding lube to the clutches between test. It sucks, but that's what works...

That's a good one. I had a similar exchange with my boss about 15 years ago: Him: "I really chewed him a new asshole." Me: "You put your MOUTH on his arse?" I was getting ready to quit...

Are you wanting to do a destroker, and why? The difference in potential redlines is negligible and you'll make less power by losing displacement. If I were doing it I'd use the L28 crank, the L24 rod (better rod/stroke ratio), and a piston that doesn't come up over the deck. I believe the piston issue is why the calc says 14:1 compression. If you just used the L28 block, crank, rods, and pistons and threw the E88 on there I think you're looking at about 10.5:1 down to something like high 9's. There are several different E88's out there, not sure if they all have the same size chamber.

Ewww. Yucky.

Through a thread on Hybrid Z on CV axle problems I've developed a new short CV axle set for people running Modern Motorsports CV adapters. The thread is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100094-cv-axle-discussion/ What I am offering is a pair of Z31T CV axles shortened to fit a 240Z running Modern Motorsports CV adapters. I haven't checked lengths on 280Zs but I think they would be the same. These shafts will be sold with no joints, just the bare shafts, LH and RH side, and are chromoly with the inner snap ring groove removed and the splines tapered to substitute. Tapering the splines instead of cutting straight through them for a snap ring removes a blatant stress riser right at the worst possible place, and due to the better material and better design these shafts should be significantly stronger than stock. Shortening the shafts we will keep the CV joints from bottoming out on the shaft. When the CV bottoms, it makes other parts of the suspension flex in order for the suspension to move disrupting handling, and can put severe loads into the differential, using the side gear inside the differential as the suspension bump stop. If we can get an order of 10 pairs, the price will be $500 per pair. These will be SETS of shafts. If you want to order the LH shaft ONLY and use the stock LH shaft on the RH side as discussed in the thread, you can do that now via the M2 website here, the cost will be $350: http://m2differentia...ducts_id=10269. Once 10 or more buyers come together I will order and pay for the shafts and then when they are delivered to me (2-4 weeks) I will notify you and you can place your order via the website. If there isn't enough demand for 10 sets, I will just sell them at the regular price of $575 on the M2 website: http://m2differentia...ducts_id=10270. Sign up at Hybrid Z if you want to commit to ordering a pair of axles: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102798-short-z31t-cv-shafts-group-buy/page__pid__961946#entry961946 Single shaft (shown with original): Pair of shafts: Spline detail:

That NISMO one has good ratios. It wouldn't be worthwhile to me to adapt it in, but different strokes and all that.

It fits the S30 with some persuasion from a BFH. The big problem is that it really doesn't give you ANY performance benefit, because the 6th is not moving 1-5 closer together. It's slightly closer ratio that a 280ZX 5 speed, but not a huge difference. I would expect that the extra 75 lbs (yep, it weighs 150 lbs) plus having to screw with a starter and crossmember and driveshaft to fit it would not be worth the hassle. It's your money, but I wouldn't do it. The reason the 510 guy did is because he was spraying nitrous on his turbo'd drag racer and blowing up the T5 trans.

Yep, 280ZXT. The later 280ZX NA 5 speed (80-83) has much better gear ratios for a NA car though. The earlier Z 5 speeds and the T5 have very wide ratios, not so good IMO.

There is at least one person who put a T56 behind an L6 in a turbo 510 no less. It's a lot of work and the T56 gets you a .5 overdrive 6th gear, so basically 6th is worthless unless you plan on driving 250 mph. I would suggest you stick with a 5 speed. The L motor doesn't usually have such a narrow power band that you need a 6, and it's not sufficiently torquey that you can idle up a steep grade like you can with a big V8.

I thought it was the BMW M coupe.

So if you were designing a "modern" 240, you would have cloned a 47 year old Shelby Daytona from 1964. I love those Superformance coupes, but your idea don't make no sense.

I've had a balancer wobble before on my car. I ran it up past 7500 rpms at the track (slight case of red mist trying to pass a friend), the balancer came apart and the crank bolt loosened. I torqued the bolt back down and drove home from the track. Pulled the balancer and found that the woodruff key had broken out of the crank and the damage to the crank was pretty significant. I probably could have swapped the crank out but I built a whole new bottom end. If you pull yours and there isn't any damage, I'd go get another balancer.

Tire size is the other variable. Use the calculator to see what different combos are like: http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/