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jmortensen

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Everything posted by jmortensen

  1. jmortensen posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    The boot keeps dirt out of the slip yoke. It's not a traditional slip yoke, almost like a CV shaft in the way it goes together with ball bearings in there. I'd suggest you just find another good used halfshaft rather than fix the boot and replace the U-joints on the one that you have. Diagnosing noises over the internet isn't always the easiest thing to do, but for a noise that happens when turning I'd look at wheel bearings and spider gears. U-joints typically make a clunking noise.
  2. The 280 arms are heavier. Thicker tubing, etc. Don't know that there is a performance difference one way or the other.
  3. You cannot move the front pivot of the control arm, as its location is a welded part of the frame. If you move the rear pivots, you can change the toe. You can't significantly change the wheelbase. Using doradox's formula and estimating the control arm length fore/aft at 12 inches and the width at 14.5" (I know the width is correct), a 1/4" toe change (which is a big change) gets .3" of movement at the hub. You said that the upright moved .1". That would translate to a hub change of .120". The differential is hung on the mustache bar in the rear, and it doesn't actually connect to the uprights at all. So again, loosen up all the bolts that hold the diff mounts (although I think you said you didn't mess with them), tighten them all up, and you might get a slight change in orientation of the bushings, but this adjustment is WHOLLY unconnected to the location of the wheels in the wells. In the front, it's attached to the crossmember. The front crossmember actually holds the front control arm bushings to the corresponding cups which are welded into the frame, so again I don't think that loosening these bolts and hitting stuff with a hammer and tightening them down wouldn't make any difference. If you're again talking about the rear suspension uprights moving, as I said before, you're not going to get a really major movement of the wheel forward or aft, because the front bushing cannot move unless the frame gets bent. Squaring up those uprights as you did is great and it can fix a toe issue/thrust angle issue. I don't see how it could significantly change the wheelbase though. Again, that was what Ron Johnson did and it led to that toe adjuster that a bunch of us made, but he slotted the holes in the upright in order to get more movement out of it, since the holes that are there are sized to the bolts, and don't allow for much movement. Not sure what your point is with the toe clarification. Toe is the relation of the angle of the two tires. Thrust angle is their relation to the centerline of the car. In a Z, the rears have a thrust element and the front do not.
  4. Control the roll (in this case it may be as much or more due to the inside suspension jacking up around the corner as it is the outside suspension compressing) and you'll fix that. This gets pretty technical and there are lots of different viewpoints on the subject which is why I didn't want to get into it here, but this post pretty much tells the story and you can follow it up from there if you like. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/page__view__findpost__p__617208
  5. The question is: "Is the car faster lifting a tire or not lifting a tire?" Yes, if you lift a front tire off the ground that might cause you to have less traction available to turn the car at that particular part of the turn, but maybe you gained more traction in the rear for acceleration and realized a net gain. Usually the front tire comes up when the power goes on. You can stiffen the rear to stop it, but this might make it harder to put the power down. There is more info on this kind of thing at Hybrid Z than you will find here.
  6. Yes, essentially, since the front toe isn't going to have a thrust component to it. The fronts are going to go straight and the steering wheel will turn if the "front thrust" is off. The rears can't compensate since there is no steering, so they continue to point in one direction or the other. Exactly the point I was trying to make. Yours is a much more technical and accurate way of saying: "There will be a slight movement in the hub when the toe angle changes, but you're not going to get a lot of movement there."
  7. Thrust angle is a function of the front toe vs the rear toe. Sounds like your rear toe was screwed up and you fixed it and that fixed your thrust alignment. No mystery there. The front of the control arm is still in the same location regardless of where the rear is. There will be a slight movement in the hub when the toe angle changes, but you're not going to get a lot of movement there. This may be easier to visualize on cars that have monoball pivots instead of bushings. With the monoball, there is no slop in there and when you adjust you can really see that the control arm just has no freedom to move fore and aft. Several of us made what amounts to adjustable uprights for our cars, you can see them here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=24100 We took the idea from Ron Johnson who fixed a toe issue in his car by slotting the upper holes in the upright and moving it to set the toe.
  8. Go rent an electric impact gun from your local industrial supply / equipment rental place.
  9. FWIW, moving that hanger is only going to affect toe. The fore aft is still going to be the same because the front of the control arm is captured by the front bushing which bolts to the frame via the front diff crossmember. The mustache bar holds the diff completely independently of the hangers.
  10. I forgot they kinda hid the lookup utility. Try this: http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/# It doesn't show the ball bearing at the end of the pinion. I think that one is going to be dealer only.
  11. Diameters of what? Bearings? I'd suggest you look at the factory service manual for part numbers, or check www.timken.com.
  12. There will be a package deal. Anyone who bought shafts in the group buy will get the package deal price if they buy adapters. Just waiting on machinists at this point...
  13. You should be able to replace the bearings. Gears are NLA. A 3.36 R180 should be easy to find in the states and so you could have another one shipped over. Might also look for a 3.54, which would make the car a bit faster off the line.
  14. The 300ZXT axles are too long as well. I have a fix for this though: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102798-short-z31t-cv-shafts-group-buy/ I should have the Z31T adapters for 280Z stub shafts around the end of January if you would prefer to deal with me.
  15. That shows the early vs late differential placement, but not wheel placement. The wheel placement is the same on the early vs late cars. Run a tape measure on the tires. Just pick a groove in the tread and measure to the same groove in the front and back of the tire as high up as you can manage before the tape hits the suspension or body. That will tell you roughly what your toe setting is. It won't be 100% accurate, but it will be accurate enough for you to figure out if there is a toe issue. The car probably scoots to the side under power because the halfshaft is bottoming out: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/R200handling.html
  16. I was pretty sure the FI systems could be chipped if not programmed. In fact, I thought they changed the rules a couple years ago to allow that in ITS, and that's what they're doing to get the kind of power John mentioned.
  17. The problem with the factory FI is that it cannot compensate for a large cam. A cam is critical to making power in the L, so if you're looking for power, stock FI is not where it's at. I think there are other issues like AFM restriction, plumbing, runner size, plenum volume, etc. Aftermarket programmable injection is a different story. The most powerful L-series that I've seen used a triple manifold with ITBs and Electromotive FI and ignition. I think the FI has come along since I was really looking at these things, so there might be better choices, but that was the thing to do about 10 years ago. Gas mileage can be really good with carbs, and I think there is more power in a cammed L28 with SU's than you'll ever get out of the stock FI. Weather/altitude driveability, and emissions are always going to go to FI.
  18. I thought that second post was not by the OP. Reading comprehension fail.
  19. I worked for a Porsche shop that used SWEPCO in everything from fresh rebuilds to brand new cars to cars with 200K on them. My boss had used it since it became popular with Porsche-files probably 20+ years before the time I got there. In fact, my boss was such a believer that if you were a new customer he would replace whatever you had in there with SWEPCO whether you asked for it or not. Had several pissed off customers in the office who had just put in Redline, but he would tell them to take it for a drive and if they wanted it switched back he'd do it at no charge, nobody ever took him up on that offer while I worked there. I think John is still operating under the assumption that GL-5 oils are not safe for brass synchros if the temp gets over 250 degrees. However, this is not correct if the oil is also MT-1 rated, which just about every GL-5 oil, including SWEPCO, is. If they are MT-1 rated, they're safe for brass at any temp. You can go further down the internet he-said she-said rabbit hole if you like, but I'm 100% confident that SWEPCO won't hurt your synchros. This comes from my own years of experience, but more importantly, my ex-boss's decades of experience with customer cars. http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/products/h201.htm
  20. You said on hybrid z that choosing oil is like voodoo. Really it's not. If it works to make old busted up transmissions shift better, then it will also make pristine new transmissions shift better for longer as well. Swepco and synchromesh work better in every case, not just when trying to prolong a rebuild.
  21. He is in Europe guys. Assuming his car wasn't imported from the US, they had 5 speeds to start and they had correct diff ratios to go with the 5 speeds. I don't know what they had, whether they were 3.7's 3.9's or 4.11's but they weren't running around with 5 speeds and 3.36's.
  22. I'll disagree on the Redline, particularly the MT-90, don't know about MTL. SWEPCO 201 works better, and I think synchromesh does as well. Related thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103084-1-2-2-3-bad-synchros-1980-fs5w71b-5-speed-buying-time-swepcoatf-or-mt-90/page__p__964470__hl__%2Bredline+%2Bswepco__fromsearch__1#entry964470
  23. The diff should match the transmission. I think in Europe you got 5 speeds, so it's probably a good match, but check to be sure. That link provided has the close ratio and wide ratio comp transmissions. I think those were the ones that you should have, and I want to say that you have the close ratio, but I'm not 100% on that. As to parts, here's my list from my big diff post over at Hybrid Z (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/) The parts list needed to bolt in a longnose R200 into a 240Z is as follows: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts FOR EARLY 70-71 Z's only, you need 5 -7. 5. Longer 72-78 driveshaft 6. Curved transverse link that sits right behind the diff from 72-78 Z 7. Flip front diff mount around on crossmember 5-7 are necessary because the early Z's had the diff mounted forward, and swapping to the R200 moves the diff rearward. Obviously if you buy a diff from a 280Z with an R200, it has everything you need except the mustache bar. If you buy the 300ZX diff, then you need the above pieces. Here are some more resources for the R200 swap: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm. www.zbarn.com sells a kit containing all the parts necessary to do the swap. It's part number is DT1299.
  24. Rpm

    jmortensen posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Could be the wide ratio steel synchro box. IIRC the ratios are pretty close to the 280Z 5 speed, which also has a big 2-3 gap. The close ratio box is pretty close to the ZX 5 speed.
  25. Rpm

    jmortensen posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    77-79 had one 5 speed. 80 is another, 81-83 is a third. All have different gear ratios. Yes, the difference will be significant. Tire size, diff ratio, and trans ratios all matter. Here is a better link: http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/
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