jmortensen

Agree with the first part. I'd run both systems and get the turbo pump. I've swapped 2 different cams in to replace the original stocker on my L28, ran it for probably 30K miles on the first one and 10K on the second, autoxed every month for about 6 years and did some track days. No problems. I have a bunch of friends with 510s who have swapped cams, nobody ever replaced the rockers. No problems. We all used regrinds. I think the rocker arm thing is an overblown issue and most problems come from cams with CWC billets. If you do some searching you'll find agreement and disagreement with my viewpoint, but I can say that your statement that it will cause premature wear problems didn't happen within the 40K miles I drove in my personal vehicle before deciding to swap in a V8.

It's a Howlin' Wolf cover. Or are you telling me Howlin' Wolf was covering someone else?

How about this? Howlin' Wolf cover:

Realistically very little, and the very small penalty for the extra weight probably outweighs the even smaller benefit to shifting. I think the idea is that the heavier knob gives you more leverage on the stick so requires less effort to actually push the shift ring over the synchro and onto the gear cluster. After trying to use an actual 8 ball in a Z, I can tell you that a heavy shift knob will also vibrate and make noise if the shifter bushings are even very slightly loose, where a standard weight knob won't.

Sounds like you have a lot experience. I drove daily with rod ends for 40K miles, and it wasn't too rough for me. Everyone has a different threshold though.

Another option requiring less labor and no cost at all is to use one of your old rubber bushings in the rear position, and the poly in the front. The front bushing takes all the load when you are driving, the rear is just along for the ride.

Try searching "Kia weatherstrip". No, this is not a joke.

It's still bolted to the head though. Might be a good idea just to check how hot the fuel lines are underneath the rubber hose. If it's not a problem then it's not a problem, but I think getting rid of the connection to the head was an important part of what I did.

No direct experience, but on my carbed Z I couldn't touch the fuel rail on a hot day. I replaced it with rubber and also got rid of the mechanical pump which is bolted to the head, and between the two mods I never had vapor lock again. If you had an IR temp gun you could find out how hot the rail is and then determine whether it is worth addressing.

I've never actually dynoed it out to see exactly what is going to give THE best performance, but if you read enough you'll see that most guys tuning on the dyno end up somewhere between 32 and 38 degrees total. You can adjust the weight of the springs on the centrifugal weights to change when it hits that full advance and then dyno a bunch to find out what is exactly the best. I was never to the point where I didn't feel that I could get more power from some other mod more easily so I never took the time, but that's how you would really dial it in. It's a lot easier if you just go to DIS, then you can just adjust the computer controls and do another pull instead of having to disassemble the distributor and modify between dyno runs. I'm not sure how fragile the 240 vacuum advance mechanism is, but the 280ZX is nearly always broken when I come across it and when it breaks it can allow parts inside to tip and hit each other, not good at all. Plus if you hit a certain vibration I always worried about it moving on its own accord. For those reasons I'd suggest physically locking it so that it can't move. Screw it down, JB weld it, braze it, something, but if you're going to not use it I would make sure that it can't move at all.

17 at idle works really well, but adding only 12 mechanical means that when you floor it and don't have a lot of vacuum you'll be running 29 degrees total, which is less than you should for max hp. 11 vacuum is not really wanted for max power - if you set the distributor to give you total in the mid 30s or so, on the top end of a WOT run the vacuum can start coming back up, which advances timing further, potentially causing pre-ignition when you want it least. I would suggest that you open the slots up a little bit on the Euro or close them up a bit on the stocker to get more like 18-20 total mechanical advance. That would give you mid 30s and then you could get rid of the vacuum advance entirely. Alternatively a 280ZX distributor has 17 or 18 degrees of mech advance, depending on manual or automatic transmission. It also has all advance in by 2500 which is about what you want. Not sure when the stocker is all in.

Looks like the "GT2" rear disc is aka 79-81 280ZX rear disc.

Hot Rod Lincoln: Jesus Built My Hotrod:

Mig welder is the way to go. I would forget about trying to use an oxy/acetylene setup on a Datsun. The sheetmetal is so thin, I can't see how you could weld it without major warping.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvwTMZNWGuk&feature=player_embedded#!

How about Hot Rod Lincoln, or an updated metal/industrial version of a rockabilly song; Jesus Built My Hotrod. Foregoing the hot rod title, I'd have to go with Stranglehold. That one came on the radio once when I was driving to Vegas at about 4AM, probably 100 degrees, windows rolled down doing about 85 mph. Pretty kick arse song when you're wired on caffeine and driving through the desert without another car in sight.

As to the chatter itself, think of it this way: The diff doesn't need to chatter to limit the slip. If you test breakaway with a torque wrench and no additive, you'll get higher readings before the LSD "breaks loose" but if you have the additive you'll have a consistent reading. If you want the LSD tighter, shim it tighter. No reason to live with the chatter. It is pretty annoying.

1 or 2 oz of which type? Some come in bigger or smaller tubes or bottles. My impression is that the amount of "active ingredient" is the same in each. Use one container per diff, and then if it still chatters, add another. That's the way I do it. On some really tight American LSD's I've had customers use 3 bottles. Regular 80W-90 works fine IME. If you want "special" oil, I like SWEPCO 201. You don't need additive with SWEPCO on a lighter LSD, you might have to add a bottle for a tighter one.

I haven't examined the two up close, but just look at them. They look EXACTLY the same. I bought mine from AZC FWIW. I found this pic here for the MSA, tried to find a pic for the AZC, didn't see it on Dave's site. Maybe he doesn't sell them anymore? Anyway, my AZC header looks EXACTLY like this (I even welded in an O2 bung) but mine is rusty. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=135

The AZC header is the MSA 6-1 header.

Nissan Comp is NLA from what I hear. I think your choices are down to Stahl and whatever Rebello sells. Stahl is top quality but they're pretty proud of what they do.

Don't know why the backlash on hood vents, but if you want them to be functional (heat out of the engine compartment, downforce) I think you can do better than these. There has been a lot of discussion about hood vents on hybridz.org in the aero forum. Take a look at the wind tunnel results too. Aesthetics notwithstanding, they do make a beneficial difference to the function of the car.

I've been caught up in tech for not having a cover and had to wrap duct tape over the pos terminal. I did get a battery with the terminals reversed so that the positive wasn't stuck under the fender, even then the tech said that it was still pretty close to the hood and made me cover the terminal. Rob, the positive terminal hitting something is a fire risk. Sure, having your car become un-driveable in an accident is a bummer. It (or you) burning is a bigger bummer. I've seen two batteries come loose and cause problems. One caught fire at an autox (Rabbit, large battery box with a small battery and metal hold down, battery slid until pos terminal hit the hold down) and one Z on the big track (battery came loose and fell off of the tray and into the starter/side of the block). I don't think the Z caught fire, but there was an explosion sound and a BIG puff of smoke when the battery fell. Battery fires are a pretty easy risk to avoid and it should be done just as a matter of course.

zlalomz has a green z with black MSA street flares. Looks very good IMO.

That's great if you have slotted mags or some other typical aftermarket wheel, but you need the right lug nuts for the factory wheels. The Nissan (and Toyota) factory wheels have larger holes in them, so the 5/8" shank diameter on the lug nuts that you find at the auto parts store is loose in the factory wheels. Since our old Datsuns use a lug centric wheel, this is a real problem. You really have to have nuts that fit.