Zs-ondabrain

It felt like 10 but ya, it was a blast. Especially when we all had to do the U-turn cause of a goof. Was'nt that Gary? Can't remember but rain or not, the drive in was great, the pulling onto the grass one at a time, all lined up was like that new Suzuki Commercial. Dave.

So I spoke wioth my "GUY " today about the part, He said "that would be breeze, do you mind welded corners?" He wants me to take some measurements of the bolt patterns and figure a width and length and he said he'll build the first one for about $100 but after he sets up the computer jig, the rest would be about $50 each. My rough estimate on the size is 22" X 6" X 1/8" thick Aluminum Allow with about a 3 degree slant? That's off the top of my head. I just need to make sure that the material and gas (back and forth) and shipping is taken care of. SO if you have a Cannon Manifold with 40, 44, 50mm Webers, and you want one of these for your triple WEber set-up, I'll be taken pre-orders as of right now! email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com We'll go with the $80 plus $10 shipping for each one. But I need at least 5 paid orders for him to make a batch. Let me know what ya think. 1/2 price ain't bad, I know I'll be buying one, Especially before the MSA event. Dave.

I used 3M Strip Calk. It's a black calk that comes in strips that are like a tar, usually used for AC fittings thru the firewall. Water Proof, sticky, non hardening and won't freeze either. You get 60 feet (60-1 foot strips) for $16 3M strip Caulk at Eastwood Also hold emblems, weather stripping, seals holes, stops squeeky panels, etc, etc. I LOVE THIS STUFF. I also use it to reseal the taillight lenses to their back plate after I do the LED conversions. Better than the glue they use.

I have the BRE style spoiler and the problem did NOT change, at all. Here is one thing you can do. Get a smoke machine, a shop vaccum and some cardboard. Cut the card board to fit in the window opening with the window 1/4 of the way down. Cut a hole the size of the vaccum hose into the card board and slide the card board into the felt groove in the upper part of the window frame. Then tape the lower part of the cardboard to the upper part of the open window. Turn on the vaccum. Start the smoke machine and blow the smoke to the suspected areas and there ya go. Or have someone on the inside watching for the exact spot that the smoke comes in, while you're out side with the machine. I say all this cause I lit the tires up today and smoke came pouring out of the 1/4 window between the glass and the plastic window trim. Turns out the filler neck had a gap between the filler neck and the floor opening. Also check the Antenna drain hole on the drivers side rear quarter. JM2CW, Dave.

I actually have a material in mind, It's an aluminum Alloy that is very strong and ridgid. Which should minimize movement or chattering on the bottom side of the Carbs or Headers. I'll bring it up with my Metal fab guy and see what he thinks. Lately I've been doing trade work with him. His fleet of vehicles all need stereo's so he proposed me doing the instals in trade for the metal work he's doing for me now. I'll post when I hear something. Dave.

the headlight switch consists of a set of contacts. The first is for the parking lights and the second is for the headlights. The switch may be your colprit.?(spelling) As mentioned, check the fuses manually, by hand. replace them with known good fuses. Then with the headlights on, jiggle the combo (headlight switch) maybe even tap the handle a little to see if the contacts jump to a clean spot, meantime keep watching the front of the car for the headlights to flash or come on. If they flash or come on, it's time to rebuild the switches. I do that for a fee. Let us know how it goes. Dave.

And they carry the Stainless as well. Only problem is the hex head is usually 2mm bigger than I'd like. I needed the 10mm head bolts for the fenders on the lip that meets the hood, all they had was the 12 mead in the same thread pattern. But other than that, I love those guys too.

Part of my evil plan :devious: just trying to keep the makers and suppliers honest.

I use these guys. great resourse so far. http://www.tacomascrew.com/ 1-800-562-8192 Haven't used these guys yet but they seam resourceful. Lots of stainless supplies. www.jamestowndistributors.com

I thought about that as well but I like most would be more likely make my own, or find a better price, or weigh the price versus the benefit. Luckily, I have "A Guy" that makes this sort of thing. I truthfully believe that every manufacturer should have a competitor. If my guy can make them cheaper, I'll have him make a few and start taking orders. If he can make them for $40 or $50 each, I'll sell them for enough profit to cover my going back and forth to him and the post office and my time. I'm thinking $80 plus shipping (most likely under $10 in the Lower 48. Let me know what ya think. Dave.

When mine did something similar to that, It was the Bearings. Replaced then and it went away. Then followed up with the Full Urethane Kit. Don't forget to have your wheels ballanced every 6000 to 8000 miles, to make up for tread wear. Dave.

Kinda off topic, but, what is the year limit on emissions in California? In Washington, if your Basic Vehicle (passenger cars, truck, vans, SUV - under 8501 LBS) is 25 years old or older, you're Exempt from the emissions check. Just wondering, in case we ever move to SoCal or something. Dave. I cut, folded and bronzed my 78' 510 tubes (L20B) I was in a hurry and very inexperienced at the time.

Most likely the one he got from me. :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

Looks great on there. I've been considering doing the same thing to mine. Heat is most likely an issue with mine but like that site says, 44, 47, 50mm carbs. Mine are 40DCOE Webers. Are the carb bodies that much different from 40 to 44? I think I'll have my custom metal guy take a look at it. Nice, very nice. Dave.

Eibach Progressive rate Lowering Springs KYB struts on Riken Raptor 225/50-ZR-16's 25" rear 25.5 front LOVE the ride, hard in the corners, decent to nice on the freeway, manholes and potholes in the road suck! but the suspension has enough give that it's not bone jarring. Other than that. I've never experience a better set-up than my present one (I've driven 15 different 240Z's) Dave.

Like Arne said, time for a good cleaning and lubing. I don't know what's all over the pivot arms but they look dirty. Lube all the pivoting areas and squirt a little on the springs as well. Sounds like a little maintanence will fix ya right up. When they stop working or start giving ya trouble, give me a buzz. Dave.

Unless you have plans to be in the area, I would'nt make the trip all the way up here Arne. It's NO Mnt Shasta Meet. It's alot of 240SX's, 350Z's, maximas and the like. Not exactly "our" cup of tea but it's one of those things that if you're in town, why not. It also a great way for all the local Z owners to meet up and get to know each other. You Oregon guys seem pretty tight nit because you have a lot more meets in your area. This is a great way for our neck of the woods to tighten up the group. With any luck, those of us who meet at the Golden Gardens meet can also plan on a "Who's going to MSA" drive. It'd be nice for Leah and I to have some company on the way down. Dave.

hello? Is this thing on? Anyone?

I won't use anything But an Interstate battery Every one I've owned has been under rated. The last 60 month battery I bought from Interstate lasted over 9 years before it started showing any signs of weakness. Also keep in mind that, 1) I ran a big stereo in every car that this battery was in. 2) I also run 90/100 H4's, and 60 watt fog lights. 3) I also listen to the radio with the engine off, A LOT, and for long periods of time. If you buy a Red top or Yellow top battery, keep in mind that the first time you run the battery dead, it'll never recover like a regular battery. Dave.

Well, it's about that time again. The Golden Gardens All Nissan Meet is on March 30th, 2008. The calender on the front page has most of the info needed to get there. The old directions from I-5 to 85th are once again correct. There was a mud slide earlier this year but that has been repaired. The event starts at 10 AM? till about 4pm. There is a picnic area with the usual BBQ (members eat free, all others pay a small fee for burgers and soda) That fee also gets you a ticket for the drawing of donated parts) All Nissan Meet means you'll see eveything from OLD datsuns, Roadsters, Z's, ZX's, SX's all the way up to 350Z's. Alot of racers, drifters, show cars and "Under Construction" cars will be there. So wether you own a classic or POS ruster, there'll be something there for you. I'M WRITING THIS FORUM TO HOPEFULLY SET UP A MEETING PLACE for anyone who reads this to meet up with fellow members, and we'll all drive in together. Nothing more beautiful than a "Big 'Ol line of Z's" pulling into a car show. I'm thinking Jack In the Box on 85th and Aurora. It's 1/3rd of the way between I-5 and the park. Here's a map with Kack in the Box indicated by a star. We'll meet there at a time that I'll anounce later in this thread. Anyone who would like to join the proposed "Convoy" is welcome to contact me and when we figure the best time and place to meet before driving in together, I'l contact everyone or post here a few days before the event. Dave. wolfin32z@yahoo.com

I ran the 205/45 R16's but the ride was too harsh. I ended up with the 225/50ZR16's on 16 X 7.5's and the ride is nice, quiet, softer yet tight enough for hard cornering. I just picked up the 225/50ZR16's from Discount Tire Co for $75 each. They are Riken Raptor ZR's and I'm liking them so for, and you CAN'T beat the $300 for all 4 pricetag. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?rc=WASINT&cf=false&c=2&sw=false&cs=225&pc=19012&rd=16&ar=50&tc=MPBHZ2&rf=true Now you just need wheels. Dave.

You did'nt say if you replaced the (VR) Voltage Regulator or not. What year Z is it? 1) replace the battery cables and double check all the grounds (one on the firewall near the battery and one below the battery but above the frame. Remove and clean all the grounding areas and terminals then replace and tighten down. 2) never replace a bad alternator in a 240Z without replacing the Voltage regulator. (Rule of thumb) 3) have you installed any 12 volt items lately that might be drainning the battery? ( lights, radio, upgrades? anything) Any recent work on the car that may have interupted a ground or shorted something out. 4) with Nothing on, doors closed, key off, pull the (+) battery terminal, wait for 10 seconds, then slowly bring the battery cable back to the battery post and watch for a spark. If there is a spark, there is an obvious short somewhere. Disconnect the VR and try it again, if the same spark apears, reconnect the VR then disconnect the alternators power wire and 2 terminal "T" plug then try the battery post again. Repeat the process with the starter wire that goes to the engine harness, different fuses in the fusebox, etc, etc. This should help you eliminate one thing at a time. Process of elimination. You'll learn more about your Z and save money at the same time. Dave.

I'll second this one from earlier.

God Rest his "pain in the butt, bickering, picky, world Class car Building" Soul. Great guy, met him once, who's gonna yell at those guys in the shop now? Sad News indeed. Dave.:surprised