Zs-ondabrain

I just dealt with a similar issue with coils, so I thought I'd throw that in to confuse you. Did it work? Ignore it. If you play with the choke and see no difference, that tells me electrical, which leaves the dist. and coil. Check all your connections while you're at it. Dave.

The MSD only draws 1 amp for every 1000 RPM's so I doubt the 6 amps at full throttle has much to do with it. Just for shits and giggles. adjust the dizzy down a little. Try it at 5 degrees and see what that does. Also, the blaster coil has a .700 ohm resistance and the stock unit is around 1.5 ohms (I think) Not likely an issue but there ya go.

It's almost time, ANYONE ELSE going??? Let us know, I hope to see as many of you as possible. Dave

Thanks guys. It was a pretty good birthday. Spend a little bit of it using the shop Vac to clean the broken glass out of my drivers side door. A truck kicked up a rock on the freeway and it shattered my window. Thank god the windows were tinted, or both of us would have been covered in glass and I would have likely ended up with glass in my eyes and crashed the Z. Luckily, the early 260Z window is a direct bolt in. Sent it to my window tint guy and had him tint it to match the old window. So therefore, Window Tinting Saves Lives!! On the plus side, it gave me an excuse to grease all the tracks and guides, and clean the crap out of the drain holes at the bottom of the door. I mowed the lawn, picked up dog poo, used the old weed-eater and set up Leahs new yard swing, all on a Beautiful NW day (about 65-69 degrees outside) Thanks again guys, hopefully this year will be the year I come up with a few more goodies for you guys and your Z's Dave

I LOVE SAUCY, and Ron, those are definately CUP CAKES. Arne, Leah says it's no big deal, cause Leah can remove her teeth at the drop of a hat, or my pants. hehehe And if I can ever convince Leah to allow me to eat cupcakes in bed, I'm all over it. :tapemouth

if I stop eating now, I'll be starved enough to eat anything when it shows up. How about a cupcake instead?

I LIKE CHOCOLATE CAKE AND POLISHED ALUMINUM ENGINE PARTS!!!! And now ya know.

And I really appreciate it. Spread the Gospel Brother, Praise the Dave..

Hate to be the one to say duh.... but what about the Parking light upgrade harness that eliminates the whole problem and gives you brighter lights in the process???? MSA or Motorsport Auto ( www.zcarparts.com ) sell them for about $60. The Harness plugs into the combo switch and introduces a relay into the circuit, eliminating the hi amperage that is killing your fusebox. I know you're new here so you probably never heard of me or my upgrades. Email me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com and I'll give you links and other info on all the electrical upgrades you'll need to get your Z back in shape and ready for night driving again.. Dave. Hey Phil, did ya forget about me already? Don't you have some of my upgrades, and know what they do?

The lower control arm mounts to the crossmember via rubber or Urethane bushings. The control arm bushing is an "Offset" bushing and if installed wrong, will place the wheel wrong. Also, the control arm is stablized by a Torsion rod that mounts to the frame. If he added washers to that, if will push the wheel forward. On each torsion rod, there should be a large washer -large rubber bushing - then the body hole (attached to the frame) then rubber again and then another large washer, followed by a small washer and a large nut. The pics below will show how it should sit. The first is of the right side and the second is of the drivers side. The control arms should sit forward in the center crossmember. Hope that helps, Dave

It's got potential, if you're looking for a long term hobby or a fat piggy bank........ Your Info says "United states" Be more specific and we can help you find the right car. I may be Biast but I'd say go with an S30 instead. We're more prone to help, or rather be able to help you here. JM2CW Dave

Well, you said you replaced the ignition switch, but did you replace the actual White switch that the dash harness plugs into?? There's a 6-pin connector that plugs into a white, round switch, behind the ignition switch (metal chassis) This is what's giving you an issue. On my 260Z, the previous owner tapped the starter wire at the key, and ran it directly to the starter solenoid wire, at the starter and tapped it in ther. This leaves all the stock wiring in place but also allows a hardwire while leaving the Safety crap there to do it's job. I can't guarantee this will work for you but it's a start. Try to replace the white switch first, then do the bypass wire if that fails. Use no less than 16 or 14 gauge wire for that. Dave.

That means your floats are messed up. They are either stuck open or you adjusted them wrong. They will continue to empty fuel into the carbs and air filter and PRAY TO GOD THAT YOU DON'T BACKFIRE WITH ALL THAT FUEL IN THE FILTER.... Order the DVD and educate yourself, I did and now people ask me for help when adjusting or rebuilding their SU's.

Just order the "Just SU's" video from bruce at ZTherapy. Here's the info from the page. http://www.ztherapy.com/products/videos/just_SU.htm And order it from here. www.ztherapy.com It's the best money you'll spend for a do it yourselfer.

I watched the 3-some cartwheel again and again, I could'nt tell where one girl started and the other one ended...... I still can't beleive that thought came from Carl, of all people. Now I'm starting to see another side of him.

Great Idea. Don't forget the "Meeting of the MindZ" weekend in Port Townsend, WA in late Aug or early Sep. Put on by ZCCW. Dave.

Either way, we'd be happy to see ya there. Even for a few hours or so. Bringing the wife? Anyone else???

Nope, nuttin sexual at all there. Excuse me, I gotta go see a man about a horse......... be back in five.

And here's a link to the Calendar event. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=419&day=2009-4-25 Please post here and let us know if you'll be attending or at least considering it. Dave

Me and Leah will be there for sure. Can't afford to go to MSA this year and this will be a great chance to get out of the house, not spend as much as we would if we did the MSA thing and still meet a whole bunch of Z car guys and gals and go on a Beautiful drive of the great North West. Thanks for the info Johnny, My name is Dave, and I too am a Z-aholic. Dave.

no real difference other than 3 or 4 screws, and a few other things but no performance difference.

Yes, there are 2 speeds on the honda motor, just like the datsun motor. Your contacts are probably to blame. Remove the switch from the steering column, the wiper switch is on the bottom half of the stalk. Remove the two small screws and the other screw near the wire clamp. DO NOT PRY THE METAL TABS UP TO REMOVE FIBER PLATE!! They usually break off and you don't want to deal with that. Carefully remove the switch over a towel, to not lose the two plastic bullets and springs. Use a small screwdriver to pop the contact plates out. Takes a little wiggling but they'll come out. Clean them with steel wool or a small Stainless steel wire brush, to get in the burnt hole that you'll likely find. Clean off any old grease where the bullet slides back and forth. If you have a curved hobby file, use that to clean the contact posts inside the switch. Or fold a small peice of 360 grit sandpaper to reach in and brush the posts clean. Wiper contacts are not typically HI amperage so blackening of the contacts should not be too evident. Also clean the plate cradles, where the plates rest on them, this is usually missed by most people and is very important. Use a little Di-electric grease ( available at most auto parts stores for .99 cents for a packet of bulb grease- same thing) inside the spring hold to hold the springs and bullets in place when you re-assemble the switch. Make sure the plates snap back in to their cradle when you put them back in, before re-assembly. Hope this helps a little. Dave.

The 4-screw carbs were the early version. The float bowl with NO drain bolt is an earlier version. No big deal or difference, except that one is drainable and one it not. just pull the rubber tube to drain it.

Dig deeper and find out what gauge the wire is, this will help in determining where it goes and what it does. This is for a 75 but most Alternator wiring is the same. 75 280Z wiring diagram.pdf