Zs-ondabrain

Oh Boy. I know what I'll be doing soon. Give me call tomorrow and we'll set up a date. Dave.

OR.............. The answer you're looking for is this, STop abusing your Z, sell it to someone who'll love it more than you, and last but certainly NOT least. LSD means Limited Slip Diff. Your Z OBVIOUSLY does'nt have one. This is a chunk of gears that allow BOTH tires to spin under hi preasures like "dropping the clutch at Hi RPM's. See my video below... Here's another one for your viewing pleasure. Dave.

Hey guys and gals, Just letting everyone know that the upgrade harness's are still available for the 240Z's. Nothing has changed (except for my suppliers prices) the HLH is still $125 and the PLH is $45. ZXP's and SCP's are still $15 and $25. I still do the LED taillight conversion for the 240Z's for $250. But this is not an advertizement, but more of a reminder for those who keep asking if the upgrades are still available. YES they are. I've even added LED sidemarkers to the list for only $85 for all four. But mostly I wanted to say thank you to every one who has ever added my upgrades to their Z's. I just wanted to help some people with the same problems I had with my Z but thanks to Mike, Arne, Will, Enrique, and countless others, I've added more upgrades to the list to help with the biggest problem these cars face on a daily basis, The electrical and lighting systems. Thanks again everyone. You're helping me get the word out and helping get me and Leah to the MSA Z Nationals this year to do more of the same, HELP 240Z owners. Much love, Dave (& Leah)

But in my defense, It technically is a Vacation, I only get one every few years. So we try and make th most of it. But the best part is getting away from the house and meeting people who love the same things we do. Dave.

I totally under stand the question and comment. I was pointing out to Bob what went where on all the Z's I've worked on or seen. You are correct about the solid hex head bolts on the flat sided washers that go on the fenders, they prevent the washer from digging into the paint on the lip of the fender when you raise or adjust the fender height. Just please remember to use the anti seize on those bolts. I've never seen one come out easily. They usually break off from rust because of the wheels throwing water up there, or water coming off the hood. Stainless is a god-send on that location. Have fun, Dave. By the way, mine is an 8/70.

Perfect example would be the MSA Z car Nationals coming up this April. Trying to find a babysitter or responsible adult to keep an eye on 3 boys (8, 15, and 16) and 2 girls (10 and 12). Who does'nt want a small fortune to keep the house up, watch the kids and get them off to school and get them in bed for the 5+ days that we'll be gone. We'll spend almost $1000 for Gas, Food, Hotel, Gifts for the kids and the possible "Gotta have it" part for the car found at the show. I work my butt off from December to April to make sure we're able to save enough to do all that and also make sure the Z is well taken care of before and during the trip, cause if it breaks anywhere between leaving the driveway and pulling back in 5 days later, I'd better have cash or a good back up plan. The 2400 mile round trip takes its toll on the car so we pack alot of metal polish, cleaners, towels and spare parts for the "just in case" things. 2 Chairs clearly identifiable as ours, small cooler for drinks in the possible hot sun, sun lotions and blockers, books to read to, from and while we're there, tools (tool bag) All of the cloths for both of us, pillows, jackets, munchies, smokes, cell phone with chargers for the hotel and car and Last but not least, As many upgrade harness's and parts to sell while we're there (to make money for the trip back.) Oh ya, business cards for those who find me and want more details on the things I do. Good questions though, hard to pick just one. Dave.

I've NEVER seen a 240Z that DID'NT have the 6 flat edge 18mm washers. Occasionally I'll see them with lock washers but they are very close to hitting the edge of the hood. As for the 4 black hood bumpers (on the fenders) I also haven't seen them without the philips head screws, not hex head bolts. Unless an 8mm head is used, you can't fit a 10mm hexhead bolt into the black hood bumpers. Dave

5 bolts (hex head) per side. 10 in total 4 philips head screws for the hood stoppers (black rubber centering guide blocks) 6 flat side washers and 4 regular washers 18mm You're always better off using Stainless but ALWAYS use anti-seize in that area (and almost every area on the Z's.) I also like chrome or zinc coated and I like allen head screws on the rubber hood guides (on the fender)

Or..... Just remove the manifold and get yourself a good flowing 6 into 1 header. Better air flow, looks better, allows for a new, bigger diameter exhaust pipe and all around better performance. They start at about $150. Dave.

Hey Jon, hmm hmm, guess who's 5'6" Hello!!! My birthday IS coming up fast. Think of me.

I promise that there are more pictures of the back of my head then the front. Actually, I was tearing out the kick panel and removing the old wiring in that picture. but I like the idea that I was doing something constructive, rather than desctructive. hehehe. I had fun working on your Z Jon, it's in pretty damn nice shape and definately has some of the "odd" early Z items. Gotta fix that roof before summer though, you'll want it working on the hot days. See ya on Friday, can't wait to finally hear everything working. Dave.

OK Jon, It's been (according to my watch) 24 hours. Where's the pictures? Just kidden, but really, where's the pics? Dave.

OK So I just read the whole damn thing and here's what I got. As pointed out. You have Hi beam but no Low beam. This tells me that the combo switch works fine. As long as the headlight switch is on, there is power to the headlights for both HI and LO beam. The HI/LO switch is the determining factor here. If you've torn it apart many times with the same results, the contacts could be bad and the solder could need to be reflowed. If it is at all possible, use your OHMs meter to check between the switch and the pin 16. you may have a short or break in the lowbeam wire. If posible and it calls for it, replace it with a 14 gauge or 12 gauge (even better) wire. Dave.

Great diagram but it's wrong. The red/white is the hi beam and the red/black is the low beam. Just an FYI. Great example though. Dave.

Not having read the whole thread, here's what I would do. Make sure there is power from the fusebox to the combo switch. Then check for power from the switch to the fusebox L+R headlight fuses. The right headlight is solid red and the left headlght is red/yellow all the way to each headlight. Check the T/S switches Hi/Lo switch for ground. Each headlights Hi beam wire is red/white and the lo beam wire on each light is red/black. If there is no ground signal at the headlight plugs, on either hi or lo, trace them back to the hi lo switch on the steering column. The headlight system is usually a stand alone system, powered from the fuse box, distributed by the fusebox. The ground system comes from a decent ground, to the hi/lo switch, and out to the headlights. Unfortunately for the 280Z's, I think the grounds make a few stops on the way. I could be wrong though. Best bet is to get FSM and start tracing, the initial wiring colors are correct and their paths are correct. Start checking the plugs for power and ground with the switch on, flip it to hi beam and do it again. I just can't understand why your Z is giving you so much trouble on such a simple system. Tell me what you've done and what you came up with so far. We'll get this figured out. Dave.

I got mine used, at a place called "Z-Sport" in Everett, Washington. You'll find them on ebay, craigslist, online and many other places like redline. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/kits/K659_Z_Car.htm

http://www.racetep.com/weber.html to help ya get started

Nice thing about the FLUX CAPACITOR is you can meet them at the finish line and never have to break 90 MPH He's not picken on ya, He's just saying that there is a search engine here that has ALL the Answers you're looking for. It takes a lot of reading to get all the answers you need. Start reading the searches and try Hybrid for your V8 questions. Hope all this helped. Dave.

I have a triple set-up of Weber 40DCOE carbs. They run about $1500 before all the goodies. They bolt right up, little bit of linkage mods and adjusting but they bolt right up with the Cannon Manifold. triples - yes 4 - no way dual S.U.'s - perfect I have the triples because I also have a stage 2 cam (478/280 cam) ceramic coated 6-into-1 headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, turbo muffler, Mallory infra-red ignition, MSD 6A, etc, etc. when properly tuned, I get about 28 MPG, great tire smokin power, lopy idle. I get asked all the time "What size V8 ya got in there?"

He owns a 72' 240Z w/ a stock motor. (on his profile page)

Use the search button, There is plenty of links and info on the engine harness's and you'll even find completely rebuilt (like New) harness's on Ebay for about $500+ There's also a couple people who can point you too the Diagrams you're looking for. Good Luck, Dave.

Do a search around here, you'll find that completely rebuilt ZTHERAPY carbs do the trick. The S.U.'s ase fairly easy to rebuild as well http://www.ztherapy.com/ Stick with the inline 6, I can't promise the same HP as a big ol V8 but the complications and down time for the swap are a lot less. The ease of tuning, the upgrades and lightweight motor will keep your handling in tune. If you're serious about the V8, try HybridZ.org Dave.

Your wiper motor is working correctly. The relay attached to the motor housing swaps the polarity and reverses it to the Park position. If you choose to swap the motor for something stronger and faster..... Read this.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28989 Just an option to keep in mind. If you have any questions that were not asked or answered in that forum, feel free to post a question on that thread. By the way, I'm a woppin 6 miles away if ya ever wanna stop in and shoot the shite. Hell, we've probably already met at one time or another. PM me any time, Dave.

That's too damn funny. I used to have that EXACT 7167 tape deck in my 78' 510 Hatchback. I LOVED that deck. I also had 2 pioneer 4" 2-ways zip tied under the dash and 2 6x9"s in the old 6x9 wedge boxs. Then I stepped up to Carver Amps and processors cause my mom used to work on the Car audio line at Carver. So I got a new amp or DSP every holiday. Then my buddy sold me a pair of Aluma Pro subs and they kicked butt back then. Then I bumped up to a 15" Klipsch concert sub, THAT WAS AWESOME!!! Anyways, now-a-days, I have a Pioneer AM/FM/CD/XM tuner deck, a 4-ch Coustic to run the 2) Alpine 6-1/2" 2-way kick panel speakers in custom pods, 2) Kicker 400A 4" 2-ways in the doors, and the 2) pioneer slim style 5-1/4" 2-ways in the stock rear locations. Then I have a Coustic 400SE 2-ch amp for the 2) 10" subs in the new fiberglass spare tire well enclosure. Not to mention the HLH, PLH, ZXP, LED taillights and LED sidemarkers, power windows, power door locks, full alarm w/ keyless entry, H4 90/100 bulbs, Driving lights (55 watt), LED dome lights and Cold Cathode bulbs under the dash. The list still goes on but you get the idea. Dave. See ya on Monday Jon. Dave.