speedyblue

It might be a case of having to replace something. If there isn't any way to adjust it. I had problems on my Z and all I could do was move the raising/lowering bit around slightly. My windows are still a bit loose unless they are wound right up. The rubber strip in the window frame has worn over the last 30 years allowing some movement. Only 1 thing I can do about it. Good luck.

Well i guess if they hold that much water, you know there isn't any little rust holes in them. I had handfulls of crud in mine, but no water luckily. Why does the window rattle? Because it doesn't go up far enough, or because it is loose in the slide rail thingy, or because the frame with the teeth that moves the windows up and down had sideways play in it?

I was under the impression that the coupe doors are the same, but the 2+2 doors are different. But I can't back that up and I am only about 5% sure. I am 90% sure that I could do with some better doors though. I stopped looking at the under side of the inner skins because it was getting depressed.

Did anyone notice the ad stating "you are bidding on 4 ground wires" and the picture and wiring diagram shows 5 wires. Does this mean you will only see an 8 to 12 hp increase??? I think I have too much spare time.

Will the 260z doors fit on a 240Z?? And what nick are they in?

I got a mig welder, a heap of crap and a bonnet from a TR7 sitting under the hood if my Z. Have to put it back on when I get the front sorted. In the car, I have got a stock L28 fresh from an 83 280zx (Aus spec) with the round top carbies, extractors and a 2.5inch exhaust. Very plain I know, but still fun.

Buy a pressure cleaner. Great for cleaning built up gunk and crud from most things very fast. Downside, if you go about it too roughly, you might cause some damage, but I have used this method many times without incident. Just watch loose flaking paint. That, and some quality elbow grease and metal polish.

I have an old gearknob in the cupboard and from memory, it is very similar to that one, but has a chrome ring around the bottom. I think it was only plastic that had been chromed, because it has cracked. I'm curious now. I will have to dig around in the garage to find out.

I have noticed a few ads in the trading post where the 240z has been called 'rare' and 'hard to find' and such. Would be interesting to know how many there are around. I see a few around, (240's and 260's) but many are in a rough state. One 240 I know of lives about 400m from the surf and is showing signs of it. I'll send you a PM about the Vin details. Scott

My 4X4 has an auto in it and i wouldn't have it any other way. I have an International Scout with no roof as a weekend car. I drive it to the beach and such so I'm always in traffic and it would be a mission changing gears all the time. It uses a chrysler 727 torqueflite behind the 345 cube international donk and has a real low stall converter. The stall is generally supposed to be set where the engine makes max torque, which is at 1800rpm on the scout. It's the perfect car for dragging off guys in their Range Rovers. But for the 240Z, definately prefer the 5-speed.

Having a hi stall or low stall converter won't change the overall ratio. Just incase 280zx fevers post threw anyone off. It is like a clutch that will keep slipping up to the stall rate, whether is be 1800rpm or 4500rpm. The closer it gets to the stall point, the less it slips. Having said that, a 4500rpm stall would severely increase fuel comsumption. Auto's are made to change gears fast and hard. Most people don't want this so car manufactures restrict oil passages and stuff so that the autos sliiiiiiiide into gear smoothly, ensuring that the driver/passengers don'e spill their coffee. They also wear out faster because of this. Get a shift kit and the oil gets through better, the gears change faster, wheels chirp and less fuel gets used. Down side, it is all a bit harder on the driveline. My fathers HQ 1 tonner ute with the holden 308 would chirp gear changes with work gear in the back and 265 tyres. Until the input shaft on the auto snapped off. Also broke the teeth off a few diffs. Useless background info I know, but just incase someone was unsure.

I don't think i have ever seen a thermo fan thicker than 2 inches. That is roughly the thicknnes of the one I have. There are quite a few different fans lying aroung the house and they are all about the same size also. Actually, just realised you can just see the fan in my altivar and it is on the front of the radiator. That is why I had no worries with clearance.

Yep that's my car in the Avitar thingy. Very slowly being fixed up to get it back on the road. The G-nose is only recent and hasn't seen the road yet in this car. It is now back to the driveable stage with all the lights working properly, but there are a few little rust issues to fix. It took me to uni for 3 years and to work for about a year and a half, then sat in the garage for another year and a half. But soon to be back in action. I'll try get some piccies uploaded this weekend of various stages. Nissan quoted me $65 for a new boot, and the Zcar shop quoted me $80. I guy had one in the trading post, like new and wanted $5 but it was the early rectangular type. I baulked at paying $65 and was just wondering if anyone had a spare sitting about. In the manual it is referred to as a dust excluder, which is also one name they called it at Nissan.

I am chasing the rubber boot/dust excluder that goes over the gearstick and screws to the gearbox tunnel to keep dirt and water out of the car. It is for a 73 240z so I am after the ovalish one for the later 240Z's and the 260Z's, not the early 240Z ones which were rectangular. Brisbane or Gold coast area would be a bonus. Thanks Scott

I replaced my viscous fan with a single 10 inch thermo fan and temp switch on what is pretty much a stuffed radiator and it worked great on my L28. Even with about a quarter of the cooling fins gone if would only heat up to about halfway. Not running a thermostat though. No idea what volume it flows. But I do love the lack of fan noise when it revs. Makes for much quieter under the bonnet. Revs quicker, but didn't notice any different on the road.

When it is warmed up, run your hand over the radiator tubes and make sure the whole thing is the same temperature. There might be some crud in there blocking up a few tubes and reducing the area it cools with. At least then you can be sure that the whole thing is working properly. I had a car where the bottom third of the radiator didn't heat up because it was blocked. The tubes ran horizontal on it though.

A few of my mates have the ricers. They have basically saved up the cash to start with and gone from there. As you finish uni you get the better job and it all moves along faster. He started with his mum's ford laser. Swapped to a 1.8 liter engine, then swapped that for a 1.8 litre turbo engine, then upgraded that. He was lucky though. His GF's father is a panel beater and so far she has got him various body kit parts and a nice set of racing seats. This has been over about 3 or 4 years. My story, I saved a bit of money working for my father at a labourer whilst at uni, then managed to purchase my first car at the start of my second year of uni. A nice metallic blue 240Z for $2000 from a wreckers in Brisbane. Cost me another $500 to get it in the road and it has continued from there until about 18 months ago when it got parked in the garage for a while. It is getting a second chance now and should be back by the end of the month. It has always been a daily driver though, never got hotted up too much. Looked very tough and sounded even tougher with 235's all round and an L28 with a very open 2.5 inch exhaust. It has got a muffler but it is hard to tell sometimes. Scott

I don't have to worry about the fan shroud because I run thermo fans instead. Much quieter under the bonnet. I can't put the bonnet on for a while yet because the front is stripped bare, hinges, headlights and all in the ready for fittment of a G-nose so I can't go by trial and error. Thanks Scott

I just threw a 280zx radiator into my 240Z because the original one is shot. I can't put the bonnet on just yet, but it looks like it will hit the radiator because it sits higher. The 280zx is a 1983 model. Does anyone know off the top of their head if it will hit and how much it needs to be lowered by? Thanks Scott

When my car was up for sale, someone went over it with a fine tooth comb, and a stud finder. Good Idea actually. Maybe that was the body filler testing device you heard about. Good luck