DatsunZsRule

Just saw the ad on yahoo for the new Nissan Cube. :sick::sick::sick: Ugly as hell. Hope no one here has one :nervous: http://www.nissanusa.com/cube/?dcp=omd.37866412.&dcc=0.215592656&dcn=1#/photos/exterior-photos/

Yeah, you can tell the damn kids are out of school for the summer with nothing better to do. Little bastards :mad: We had that crap going around in my neighborhood too last year. One neighbor even had his gas stolen out of his tank. Don't you wish you could catch them? Probably a good thing I didn't see the ones in my neighborhood doing that crap or I'd likely be in jail for beating the crap out of them like a red headed step child

Did you bleed them in the correct order? -Master Cylinder -Right Rear Wheel -Left Rear Wheel -Right Front -Left Front

The undercarriage is a common area that gets damaged due to the fact they sit so low to the ground. Doesn't take make much if your not careful to bottom them out :hurt::hurt: I can just see how it happened- when they loaded my Z in Arizona to be shipped to me back in 2002, they drove it up on the ramp to load it into the truck then once it reached the top of the ramp and the front wheels hit the level spot, BANG

Thanks It could be much worse though. It's nothing major that prevents me from using it or enjoying it and nothing that can't be fixed later on IF it needs it To me, I think structurally it's fine. Just looks bad but I figure if the estimates are free, might as well have it double checked from a resto. shop who does frame work :classic: Anyone thinking of having a Z or any vehicle shipped, use my experience as a lesson. BEWARE and have the seller take photos before shipping and then once your Z arrives, INSPECT it thoroughly. Not just the shell, but underneith as well.

Not at the moment. I got a oil change coming up on it so I'll take some then. probably next weekend if the weather allows me to I did find a place about 30 min. away in Stillwater, MN that does resorations on antique/classic cars and they do frame work so I may swing in and see what they think and nothing else just get an estimate. There estimates are free so might as well see what my options are. If they agree that it's structurally sound and don't see it as being a problem then I'll just live with it and do whats suggested above and try to pound it out the best I can.

Cottage Grove, MN Yeah, It's worse than a blemish :mad: but it doesn't look to me like it will be a safety issue or mechanical issue so I think for now I'll just continue to enjoy my baby as I have for the 7 years I've owned it. If I were to decide on repairing the damage, I think it will be pretty expensive labor wise to fix as all the undercoating on it will have to be removed first to repair it too I'm assuming

Thats kinda what I was thinking too. I'm not looking to win 1st place in a car show anyway. It's a damn nice example of a classic 1st gen. Z and thats good enough for me. Just kinda bummed me out today spotting that.

I bought my Blue 280Z back in May of 2002 so I'ved owned her for 7 yrs. now and I can't believe I never noticed this before. I had her out today and parked in the bright sun this afternoon and it was shining bright under the car so I poked my head underneith in front of the rear wheels and I freaked. No, its NOT RUST I found that freaked me out, it was the fact that I saw that either the previous owner or the shipping Co. that brought it up to me in MN. had really smacked the underside good. Frame rails in front of the rear wheels are dented and there is a spot on the drivers side where the floor is dented (behind drivers seat area) Reason I never took notice till now is because first of all she sits so low to the ground, I can barely fit my head underneith it and the majority of the work I've done to it since I've owned it has been under the hood or underneith up by the front end. I noticed some scuff marks from laying on my creeper while working under the front but never thought it was that bad closer to the rear. :stupid: The guy I bought it from was a real straight up guy and got compliments from the president of Z Club in Arizona. He told me how there was no undercarriage damage and said how great of shape it was in and gave me all the pics I asked for to prove it so I think this was something done by the auto shipper back in 2002 and I was too stupid at the time to check it out thoroughly underneith before driving away with it and assumed it was OK and now I find it 7 yrs. later. :mad:Live and learn I guess but man was I pissed. Mostly at myself for not taking notice of this in 7 yrs. :disappoin I won't be able to do it right away but for those of you that have done restorations, what am I looking at roughly to have something like this fixed?? I don't have the facility or the welding skill to do it myself so it will have to go to a professional resto. shop. any suggestions from those that have had to do this kind of work on there Z is greatly appreciated.

Like me and rtaylor were saying though, having a bolt or bolts snap off for the water pump is a different story. Trying to deal with a problem like that out of your home garage where your equipment is limited and your busy working everyday of the week at your job, it just turns into a major nightmare and not really worth the hassel. My two cents.

Did you try checking the Thermotime Switch???

Just what I want to hear when I plan to do my water pump in the near future. I have a friend I know very well who has his own shop that he runs and has a real nice facility with more high end equipment than I do at my house. I'm kicking the idea around to just outsource this particular job to him being that mine has the orig. 32 yr. old parts, I can just see those damn bolts going "SNAP" on me :paranoid: I wish I had time to do it where I work but hell I'm lucky if I get a lunch break sometimes I'm so busy with customer stuff.

Sounds like your buyer made out good Stephen Yeah who knows Carl. Courtesy does sell the seal kit. http://www.courtesyparts.com/front-caliper-seal-kit-1970-1978-240z-260z-280z-p-569057.html?cPath=7724_7749&

Hopefully my orig. 32 yr. old calipers are still OK. They seem to work fine when I hit the brakes. I don't know I have to look at them.

Nope, My error in my 1st post. Just looked when i took the photos and no shims in that kit.

Me?? Yep Original Girling Sumitomo

Ok, just took some photos of my new factory pads and hardware Kit.

I too was very bummed out. I don't like "Aftermarket" :disappoin

I havent actually pulled mine off yet but looking at the FSM for my 280Z, they look different from the ones you posted. I'll know more when I have a chance to work on it while I'm off from work on vacation.

Hopefully they will. Maybe it's just me but the aftermarket ones I saw looked slightly different. Could be just me too. Can't trust pictures.

I Have new factory Nissan hardware kits that I bought a while back ago that comes with the anti squeel springs and shims and wanted to get new calipers for it now and Courtesy Nissan E-mails me today "Dear Jared, Sorry the calipers for your car are no longer available through Nissan" So now I suppose I have to go aftermarket on those and I'm sure the hardware kit won't work in the aftermarket ones Never fails :classic:

Not Disagreeing with the fact that you may have a bad FPR but losing fuel pressure is not acceptable either. It is suppose to hold at 36 constantly. If you don't want to believe me, read the F.I. section of the FSM.

I'm sure I'll catch hell for this but Griffon does have a point. It Is his post and it is Z related so he really does have every right to complain. He's just trying to politely say that the soap opra above belongs elsewhere which I kinda have to agree. Sorry

I'm sure you've checked this already too, but are you sure there isn't a slight blockage in the lines/fuel filter or a kinked line somewhere? I have seen many times people complaining about a poor starting/running issue after they have driven it around and if lucky, it's just a simple thing like a dirt fuel filter. The pressure decreases after running the car due to the "crud" getting stirred up and restricting the flow. Just another thought

Does it reach 32PSI then slowly bleed to 0 or does it hold at 32PSI? On the poor running issue during warm only after driving sounds related to a different problem. A common cause for a problem such as your describing is a faulty Water Temperature Sensor. Have you checked that? Usually a weak pump that causes running issues will be noticed all the time (Cold or Hot)