DatsunZsRule

Agreed which is why I said " I'd still do an inspection of all your rear end components. Take care of your shocks first if those are shot and make sure every nut and bolt is torqued down to factory specs."

The way you tried to post your photo is right. Reason it didn't work is because it needs to be at a site like picturetrail, photobucket ect.

aahh. I was afraid it was zcar.com and some know nothing kid who thinks he/she has all the answers fed him the wrong info. Seems to happen a lot over there which is why I quit going there a while ago. Gets annoying

Interesting. Lighter or not, I would have to say it would be a good up grade for your 240Z. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4101&Category_Code=PSDC05 if your taking fast, hard turns which it sounds like you do This (in my opinion) is a damn good upgrade. especially if plan on Auto Xing once in a while. Will it help your problem? I'd still do an inspection of all your rear end components. Take care of your shocks first if those are shot and make sure every nut and bolt is torqued down to factory specs. I'm sure you have done this already but have you checked the wheel lug nut torque? Some rims require being torqued down more than once when it's been completely removed.Just another thought But anyways yes, I would highly recommend putting the sway bars on. We drive a lot faster on our roadways now compared to back in the early 70's Good luck.

Are you sure about that? Could have sworn they had a 7/8" sway bar back there just like 280's did. Why would you not have one????

Could be a bad sway bar. The sway bars job is to minimize body lean which increases handling capabilities. They stiffen the chassis to resist body roll. If your sway bar is shot then naturally your Z is going to be sloppy on the road so I'd check that if you haven't done so.

texasz: "Glad to see that you found your way over here!!" Where were you before ZZ1??

zz1, They were just like any 1977 280Z. When Datsun said "The Z with more ZZZAP" by that they meant The Z with more accessories. The sunburst yellow paint with stripes, rear window louvers, and racing mirrors. Please post picures of your pride and joy. I'd love to see it. Don't see a whole lot of them. ;-)

Sure sounds like it's not getting ENOUGH fuel. After it sits, it will idle OK, then after a little while, she starts sputtering and dies. You said that you had the fuel tank cleaned out, changed the filter ect. but have you gone through and checked all the fuel lines for any obstructions? Any kinks? How about the carbs? have you gone through and cleaned them and made sure they are adjusted properly? As for your Pinging issue, one thing you want to make certain since you just did a tune up is that your dist. cap and rotor are of the same brand. If the cap is a diff. brand than the rotor, this can cause incorrect air gap and create such issues. Good luck

For the amount that you use your horn, NO. Stock ones are good enough for me

You will need to change it. The 79 ZX M/T had the 3.54 so you have a 17 tooth in it now.

Interesting I mentioned the borg warner because Datsun did use it in the 83 ZX's. However, I agree it's sort of a different discussion. Great link

My understanding was that Datsun used 3 different types of 5 speeds For U.S. Z Cars One from 77 -80 Wide ratio One from 81-83 Close ratio and a borg Warner T5 in 1983 ZX's

yep, they will fit

There ya go you have the wrong cog then. Most r180 3.36 (on 280Z's) were used on Automatic models and you left the cog in the tranny from the donor car which means you have a 17 tooth or possibly a 19 tooth for the 3.9 What 5 speed tranny did you get? 77-80 or 81-83 aahh, hard time starting at first after it is already hot huh? that pretty much tells me right there it's the thermotime switch like mine. Still don't hurt to test it if you want to make sure Glad to help as always

Usually they are the yellow. Still count each tooth to make certain. If you have a R180 then you don't have a 4.11

So you have the original diff. correct? Gear ratio 3.36? If so then you will need the 16 tooth cog

Yep, that test is originally from my FSM (1977) Only way I can answer your speedometer question is to know which differential you got? It doesn't matter which year Z trans. you have. (77-83) The speedometer is metered by the cog on the end of the speedo cable that threads into the transmission and is paired with the differential only.

Ok, I just snapped my own photo :laugh: NOTE: whats written above it is part of a different test Hope the picture is clear enough.

I use a meat thermometer. You can pick those up for pretty cheap. Got mine at the grocery store some time ago and still works perfect. They work awesome. I'm unsure about an ear thermometer?? I'll try and get a photo of the end of the switch with the terminals to show you which terminals are which tonight.

Thermotime Switch test: You will need a thermometer and an ohmmeter. 1) Disconnect ground cable on batt. 2) Disconnect Thermotime switch connector 3) Remove switch from T Stat housing 4) Dip the heat-sensing part of switch into cool water 50 degrees F. 5) when the Thermotime switch is about the same temp as water (50 degrees) measure the resistance between terminal numbers 45 and 46. The resistance should be about 78 6) Now increase your cool water temperature on your stove until it is more than 77 degrees then check continuity between terminal numbers 45 and 46. If your ohmmeter reading increases from about 78 to infinite, circuit is OK. BTW, the terminal numbers I got from my FSM. Hopefully you know which ones are which If not, I'll try to dig one up Good luck.

35 is close. FSM says 36 @ idle at least. Cleaning fuel pump strainer, inspecting all fuel lines for kinks and making sure lines are clean, replacing a dirty fuel filter ect. will help improve your pressure if it seems a little low. Good luck Sorry 78 280zcar, back to you

Also test your thermotime switch like 280~Master mentioned. that can cause such symptoms. I have to replace the one on my Z because it is bad. After mine is warmed up, and I shut it off and it sits for about 5-10 min. and I go to restart it, she has a devil of a time starting and when it does, it runs real rough for a few min. due to the faulty Thermotime Switch providing ground for the Cold Start Valve when it shouldn't so it's getting too much fuel. Then when that extra fuel burns off, the idle smooths out again. So for sure check that as well.

Cool. 39-41 is real good. How did your test on your Air regulator turn out?

That one picture is enough for me to decide. That Batt Tray is practically gone, and the firewall above whats left of the battery tray has a good size hole. I can only imagine what all the other hidden spots must look like on that poor Z.