vercingetorix

Thanks, I'll check as soon as I get home. If you come across your stock bolts and they are marked differently please give me a heads up. Thanks again HCH

Is there any way to distinguish between stock and turbo head bolts in the absence of numbered bags? I think they are stock but am not positive,also is there any harm in torqueing them to turbo specs just to be sure? Thanks, H Houghton

A couple of years ago there was a discussion concerning stress relief drilling of dash cracks here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22361&highlight=dash+crack+drill (didn't want to awaken the sleeping old thread controversy) I just dropped my dash off in Tucson to be refurbed and have a small crack repaired and had a moment of clarity and remembered to ask the guy if that would work and he said that was exactly what he was going to do to stop it from going further. He said there was a slight chance it might resume in another directon but this would stop the current crack from further progress. Thought someone might need to know.

You will probably need to pull the entire manifold to see what you have to work with. Try soaking with a penetrant oil like Kroil or a thread awhile back suggested a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid evil stuff but supposed to work well. Patience is the key, soak it tap it soak it tap it give it a few days, usually works for me. Good Luck, H Houghton

Flat tops have some vapor lock issues perhaps the lines were blocked in an attempt to address that problem. If you can afford it I'd seriously consider replacing them with ZTherapy round tops. My2c

That sounds like a total hoot!! Probably a bit late to fool with the gear box now,buy a bungie cord to hold it and DRIVE! Best of Luck

I'm heading to Tucson on Monday 10/5/09 and was wondering if anyone knows of decent parts yards in that area, thought I might just nose around while I'm there for a few things I need. Thanks, H Houghton

I'm taking my dash to be recovered next week and thought I'd flip it over just to check and sure enough

I'm with Dave on this one http://japanese.about.com/library/bl50kanji_chikara.htm

I bead blasted mine and coated it with POR's high temp coating,came out like brand new. My2cts

Thats kind of what I thought and why I asked ya'll before I tried it. I just want to get this apart and over with so I can start reassembling it, put in all the cool stuff I got from Dave and drive the little weasel! I reckon I'll put a large piece of timber all the way across the body and rest that on three or four jack stands. Luckily all of the bolts and such have loosened right up so hopefully that won't develop into a nightmare. Thanks for all the input it is greatly appreciated. HCH

Can't quite get the bugger, I'll give it another go in a bit. Also, can I safely remove the swing arms and spindle pins and leave it standing on its wheels or is it too unstable that way?

I'm in the process of dropping the differential and am wondering if I can remove it with only un-bolting the top of the half shaft where it connects to the differential. My qustion is, should it push back along the splines enough to clear the bolts and drop down? I seem to need about 3/8 of an inch more to clear. Just tryng to avoid messing with the wheel side end,at least until its a little easier to get at. Thanks, HCH

I had a friend who had a TR3 in high school and I only EVER saw it in the shop!! Cool looking car though.

Interesting article here: http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm

Instead of changing the head gasket I ended up re-building the entire head,new timing chain and gears and all, you know,while I'm here and its such a long way back to it later! Parts are just stacked for now,still have to do the oil pan

Again just what I needed,thanks. I am actually getting a little closer to completing what I originally set out to do, change the head gasket,although that got a bit out of hand as well and of course the rest of the car is completely apart. Oh well maybe I can drive it next summer.

Its an E88

I need to know the length of the rear-most exaust manifold stud. It must be a good deal longer than the rest because it anchors the water tube that goes behind the block and the engine lift hook as well. The set I bought a couple of years ago are all the same size. (I bought them from Reddat go figure) Thanks All, H Houghton

Cool, I give it a try. I do worry about my CD. I have inadvertantly destroyed many.

You could always vacation in beautiful New Mexico and drop it all off at my house on your way through!

It is such a great resource I would like it more at my finger tips, and I could stash the CD in a safe place rather than moving it about so much.

I would like to download the entire contents of the CD to my hard drive for quicker access rather than re-launch the program from the CD each time in order to use it.

Is there a way to download this to my hard drive so I don't have to reboot it every time I want to use it? Best, H Houghton

searching the site found schematic, apparently this is not the ab valve.:stupid: But what the heck is it for? I am at my office and cant check my parts CD