Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About KeysZ

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 35569

  • Rank: Rookie

  • Content Count: 9

  • Content Post Ratio: 0.20

  • Reputation: 6

  • Achievement Points: 65

  • Member Of The Days Won: 0

  • Joined: 10/20/2021

  • Been With Us For: 45 Days

  • Last Activity:

  • Currently:



  • Map Location
    Cudjoe Key, FL
  • Occupation

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Original owner of this 1973 Z

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

KeysZ's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Wally, the lobes push the rocker arms down which opens the valve. There are 2 TDC. One will have the exhaust lobe down, pushing the rocker down and opnening the exhaust valve. The second time around to TDC neither lobe will be pushing a rocker down, so both valves are closed. This is the compression stroke. The fuel and air are sealed in the combustion chamber and it is ready for the spark. Now you can check the position of the rotor. While you bring the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke, watch the crank damper (or balancer) not the rotor. Check the timing mark. It dosen't need to be exact-anywhere between 0 an 15 degrees and it will start. You can fine tune the timing after you get it running. The rotor is addressed next.
  2. It's a bit confusing, Wally. The TDC occurs twice-once is the exhaust stroke and with the valve cover off the exhaust lobe points down and the exhaust valve is open. The next crankshaft revolution will be TDC on the compression stroke. The lobes will be just as in the picture siteunseen sent you. The distributor only rotates once and the crank twice. You can rotate the crank with a breaker bar and socket on the damper bolt if all the plugs are out. You can also accomplish this by putting the car in gear (stick shift) and rocking it. Check the timing mark and see where the rotor is pointing. It appears you are out of phase.
  3. Steve is right on the money with the oil pump. I believe the distributor body position may be off. I think the vacuum advance diaphragm should be on the other side.
  4. It looks off, and probably one crankshaft revolution. It has to sync with the oil pump so there is some trial and error involved. You can verify the compression stroke on #1 by taking off the valve cover and checking that the cam lobes are not opening the valves on #1. Get the engine on the #1 compression stroke and rotate the engine, by hand with the plugs out until the timing mark on the damper is between 0 and 10 degrees on the timing tab then set the distributor back in place with the rotor pointing at the # 1 plug wire.
  5. If the distributor was removed and reinstalled, you need to be sure the rotor points to #1 plug wire on the compression stroke. The distributor runs at half speed. I usually put a mark with a marker on the distributor body where the #1 wire is. When you remove the cap, you can see where the rotor is pointing. With the timing mark on the damper at zero advance on the tab, the engine should run. You can check the compression stroke by removing the plugs and crank the engine with your finger over the #1 spark plug hole.
  6. Thanks, John. I have Dave's headlight relay harness-but not the parking light harness. I checked the draw with an ammeter and noticed no big drain. I suspected a wiring issue between the turn signals and the markers-but the turn signals did not light the markers when they were off. I thought it would work in both directions. I am going to install a new, electronic flasher to see if that could be the problem. I reconditioned the combo switch and the turn signal switch, so the contacts are clean. I have the incandescent bulbs, so LED's are not an issue-unless the LED dash lights are a problem. I will check the dash light dimmer tomorrow. I will post the results. good or bad. Glad to chat with an original owner. I had the original engine rebuild by Datsun Spirit = Stage 3 and hope to get on the road soon. I logged 102000 miles before I began this project.
  7. Will do. Do you think the flasher is suspect? I will check the drain with an ammeter with the markers off and the battery charger connected. and again with the markers on.
  8. Steve, the battery is one year old. I tried it with a charger connected (15 amp) no change. Also, no change with the headlights on or off. There is no voltage at the marker lights when they are off and the blinker is on. The blinkers seems to only have the issue when the marker lights have current.
  9. I have a 73 Z production 12/72, and owned it since new. I am in the process of finishing the resto and have encountered a lighting issue. With the key on the directionals work properly, front and rear. The rear light has the upper and lower lights blinking at the same time. When I turn on the marker lights, the directionals still work but the rear upper blinks slightly before the lower and all the marker lights dim in time with the blinker. I have tried it with the hazard flasher with the same result. I removed the bulbs one by one-no change. Checked the ground at each socket and all good. Is this unique, or has anyone encountered this.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.