matthewstratton1449@gmail.

So, been slamming on the car working on little things making it more road worthy, im still having issues getting it in time it seems the best i can do is 0 on the timing marker on the crank with the dissy twisted all the with the bolt on the right otherwise the more I twist bringing the bolt towards center the timing mark shoots way past 0 on the marker putting the mark almost towards the top of the pull while its running, I've drove it around the shop and back and it has good response and all I just wanna fine tune it before hitting the highway 20200607_194103.mp4

So update today got the idle adjusted the boot for the AFM is torn bad so its kinda missing with the idle which i fixed after the video and fixed the issue, now that its going i gotta check timing which i cant see the mark on the crack so ill have to inspect it for it. Also my clutch needs bleed like super super bad full of fluid but basically no feedback at the petal cant even attempt to put into gear, is it like most cars just bleed it at the slave cylinder? Snapchat-289258633.mp4

I forgot all about the screw yeah in the am ill fill it up with fuel and adjust the screw and see what happens

So update i got a actual shop now and moved it to its now home, once there i pulled hood off again and started checking everything from start. I found the problem sooo previous owner did some jank wiring ending up switching the connections at the battery i stripped the tape and loom off to inspect the wires and trace and found out that wire number 70 which is suppose to go to the positive terminal was wired to the negative side and the few wires that were suppose to be connected to the negative side connected to the positive numbers 5, 16, 17, 35, 72, 49 after redoing that and cranked the motor would you guess it i have fuel from all 6 injectors instantly, redoing the coil negative to ground caused the clicking that i had not heard yet confirming the issue fixed. I used a picture to re hook up all the plugs and put injectors back in. I cranked the car and got a instant response of a rough idling then died, i adjusted the distributor a few times to no real gain just hard to start and rough idle till it died im not a 100% on fuel level after all this so im going to go back tomorrow and put more gas in it and try again but would my coil being out of spec also cause issue here i planned on going to O Reillys tomorrow and ordering the right coil

So update pulled the injectors out and cranked it and have no injector action fuel pressure tested good kinda weird cause it was able to idle couple weeks ago and now its not giving injectors anything. Uploaded a video of it cranking with no response, so now im kinda just confused i have 2 ecus and 2 drop resistor bundles i can swap between and see if thats a issue but ive been doing that from the beginning. 280z_injectors_no_fuel.mp4

So i started checking for spark at each plug and when i got to to cyl 4 it constantly sparks even while car is not cranking just sitting with key in ON position, i noticed earlier that the in the coil area there was a constant click noise and i still couldn't for sure tell were its coming from but it correlates with the spark every time at the plug 280z spark.mp4 280z_spark_.mp4

found it looks like the original to me E12-08

Where would the ignition module be located i don't see anything in the engine bay some people saying its under the dash on passenger side

280z injector .mp4 280z injector .mp4 so the original tac isnt in the car the previous owner put some crappy aftermarket one in, i attached a video doing the coil negative to ground but the most i could hear was ticking coming from what sounded like the coil or something in that area, im gonna re try when i have extra hands later so i can actually listen to each injector and originally when i pulled the harness i spliced into the pin 1 wire and ran a new wire from coil ground to ecu

ok so i pulled plugs and cyl 1,3,4 have fuel on them 5 looks like it has light fuel on it while cyl 6,2 are dry plugs are B6ES NGK's. I also tested more circuits and found Air Flow Meter Resistance #2 3b test where small resistance should be found i found 185 ohms, also Air Temperature sensor resistance test #1 (4) was not reading any resistance, Air Regulator and Fuel Pumpp Circuit test #1 (8) had no continuity, Injector Circuit #5 Test #2 3(c) only had 11.1 volts compared to the rest at 12.6 volts besides on #3 Injector Circuit Test #2 3(e) measured only 0.01v wayy lower than the rest. So at this point i have no clue were to even start

checked at the sensor still getting nothing on the ohms, gonna pull plugs here in a bit and check them

so tested the water temp circuit and got nothing in ohms reading so im guessing the sensor is shot, connection and wires seem good re cleaned and tested again same result also today i haven't been able to get the car to start at all like the other-day so its weird, i think it was only starting with the cold start valve the other day and now being warmer maybe its not functioning. checked the links and there good and clean

yeah there connected however previous owner added new wires along with deleted the inline fuse, ill pull and clean the links and try that, been fixing and chasing alot of wire gremlins that the previous guy did when he pulled the engine

so using that helpful manual i did a few tests and checks as of injector click im not hearing anything, when i tested the circuits the one attached cir 4 for injector 4 is reading barley any voltage compared to the rest that read about 12.3, also when i checked the relay i never got any click when i turned the key to on even laying under the dash with my hand and head near it i never felt or heard anything so im kinda stumped now i have 2 different ecus and drop resistor packs to swap back and forth with but nothing given much results.

Its a 1975, i have it manually wired for the fuel pump, all hoses are in good shape, the AFM is plugged in and good connection. 1975 Datsun 280z 2.8 got it just a couple weeks ago guy had it running year prior to being parked for the year and then it wouldn't run. I may pull injectors and see if their firing that way