kenward1000

Sorry, should have done that. 5/71 240Z, thanks.

Driver's side wiper arm is marked M761 LD100-L, passenger side W621 LA87R. The plastic wiper blades (the hard plastic part not the rubber wipers) keep failing where the plastic connects to my wiper arms, especially on the passenger side. Who has a recommendation for *metal* wiper blades? Driving somewhere soon where it might rain.

Not practical for a 10 mile drive in mixed freeway and urban/suburban streets, but suitable in an emergency. Had a flatbed tow my car to Z Car Garage. Bleeding didn't help so we replaced the clutch master/slave cylinders, the line, the clevis pin. ZCG did the work on the spot, while I waited. Recommended!

Similar issue happened this morning in my '71 240Z. Clutch pedal goes to the floor easily, all gears grind if I try to engage. IMG_0212.mov IMG_0210.mov

Do the bunny ears point up or do they droop down?

Did a compression test on the 3.0L/280Z based engine in my 240Z. #1 = 195, #2 = 165, #3 = 170, #4 = 185, #5 = 150, #6 = 175. Want to do a leakdown test to see what's going on in #5. Have a leakdown tester which I've used on vintage motorcycles. Have looked on YouTube and searched the forums, for a leakdown test procedure to use on an L28. For each cylinder, need to test at TDC on compression; how do I determine that for each individual cylinder? Thanks.

So the Glow Shift adapter, which goes between the block and the sender, arrived today. Stupid Q: do I need to drain the engine oil before removing the existing sender, or is the sender above the oil level in the block?

Z Car Garage in San Jose, CA fixed me up with a 4.10

Started my '71 240z this morning for a drive. While idling noticed the oil pressure gauge was sitting on zero. Shut it down, checked oil level (good). Started again and removed the oil filler cap, looks like lots of oil being slung around. Maybe the sender has failed, maybe the wiring, maybe the gauge. What's the next troubleshooting step?

Yep, turned out to be broken teeth in the R180 open diff. Replaced it with a rebuilt R180 LSD.

Car is going into ZCG on Thursday for a post-mortem. Images to follow.

Driving my '71 240z in the hills today. Leaving the scenic outlook, decided to chirp the tires a little. Something went BANG loudly in the rear end. Coasted to a stop, did a visual inspection, nothing found. Continued driving, but the loud BANG started happening again and more frequently, only when I was on the gas, not when coasting. Parked it again, no visuals again. Called the tow truck, now back home. Put rear up on jack stands. In neutral, rotated the tires forward at same time, while friend grabbed the drive shaft. Some times the shaft would turn in sync with the wheels, other times it seemed to skip or jump. Asking the experts in the group for suggestions on further trouble shooting. Don't know if it's the shaft itself, the U-joints, the differential, etc. Stock diff, looks like it's never been opened. '71 240z, Rebello 3.0 engine, Z Car Garage suspension, brakes, CV joints, new clutch, 5 speed tranny recently serviced.

Please show me what you've got available. Thanks!

Those 3 missing chunks around the edges would be a step backwards for me. Thanks for dragging it out for inspection!

That would be great to replace that broken panel with a better one. Thanks.

See the corners where the holes are and where the corner has been broken off? Those busted off corners are what I'm trying to reattach.

Trying to refurb the interior plastics of a series 1 hatch interior. Thinking of super glue plus a layer of something really thin on the backside. Concerned that a thick repair will impact ability to attach. Would love to hear from someone who's been there and done that. Thanks.

Found the parts that I needed at 240zrubberparts.com

Trying to refurbish these components. Top priority is locating a mystery part. Looks like an interface piece between the big plastic panel, and the funnel. One of them is good to go, other one had disintegrated beyond any hope of repair. Have looked at the parts fiche multiple times, haven't been able to find a part which matches. I understand, finding the part number doesn't guarantee that the part is available, but it's a start. Would appreciate a ping if anyone knows what this is.

Mission accomplished. Lubed the inner cable as I fed it back into the transmission end of the housing. Drove it around the block, no speedo needle bouncing. Thanks for the suggestions.

The inner cable was extracted from the transmission end. Maybe use the silicone spray on each inch of inner cable, as I'm feeding it back in?

240z speedo needle bouncing. Read that drive cable needs to be lubed. Have pulled cable inner from transmission end, cleaned and lubed said inner with 3-In-1 light oil. Blew out the housing from the speedo end. Now, how to lube the inside of speedo cable housing and with what?

The engine cranked twice then the fusible link failed. Probably doing it's job because the starter was drawing too much current. I've had the connector fail on a different z.

When one of those old screw in style house fuses would blow in his house, my grandpa used to put a penny in the bottom and screw it back in. How much current can Abe Lincoln carry? In case there's an actual problem with the starter, don't want to hard-wire it. What about soldering up a 30A fuse with the appropriate terminals?

5/71 240z. Went to the market. Car cranked twice then lost all electrical power. DVM confirms the fusible link is open. AAA towed it home, but it needs to be moved. Is there an emergency hack that I can create to allow the car to move short distances, until a stock or upgraded replacement arrives? Thanks!