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kenward1000

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About kenward1000

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Occupation
    firmware engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    72 240z with 145K miles. PO upgraded to 4 wildwood disk brakes, kyb struts w/coilovers, 17" wheels. Originally orange, cheaply painted red long ago.

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  1. Found that site yesterday, thanks. Engine is stock 72 240z, Pertronix ignition, 32 degrees total advance at 3000+ rpm, dwell 30 degrees, upgraded coil. Compression is 160psi per cylinder, +/- 5. I've rebuilt the carbs, synced with a TwinMax. Mixture screws 1 turn out from the stop, which makes the plugs burn clean. Starts readily with full choke, 2000rpm. Engine almost immediately begins to run rough at idle, rpm slowly reduces until it's about to die. Revving the engine above 3000rpm a few times improves the idle. Idles at 700-800 when fully warm. Really seems cold blooded. Just wondering if the 14" vacuum at idle is low, contributing to poor idle. Thanks for all the replies!
  2. Did a vacuum test yesterday on my 72 240z. plugged the gauge into a port on one carbs intake manifold. Reads about 14" at idle, goes up to 20" when revved above 3000 rpm. Are these values "normal" or do they indicate a vacuum system leak somewhere? If the reading is low, how to figure out where the leak might be? Thanks IMG_6987.m4v
  3. I'm dealing with some DPO hack. Looks like they had the front cover off, then mangled the head gasket when trying to slip it back in place. There are two small fasteners at the lower front of the head. The driver side one is missing but can't be replaced because the head/head gasket/front cover holes don't line up. Did some cleaning then external sealing today. If that doesn't work then it seems like the head has to come off, to replace the mangled head gasket and the mis-aligned fastener holes. Thanks for the tips!
  4. My 72 is leaking increasing amounts of oil, at the upper edge of the engine front cover, where it meets the front edge of the head. Looks like the head gasket is mangled there. No coolant seen. Trying to get a sense of how big this job is, any special tools required, anything that should be inspected after the removal, parts that should be replaced as a matter of course, the whole enchilada. Have all the normal automotive tools and mechanical ability. Searched YouBoob and the forums for threads about prepping for/accomplishing this task, didn't find enough. Thanks for reading this post!
  5. Yes, the unique left and right arm ID's, thanks.
  6. 5/71 240z. The wiper arm marked "761 TRICO LD100-L" has failed, where the plastic connects to the blade, and must be replaced. The other wiper arm is marked "621 TRICO LA87R". Should I be looking for a "621 TRICO LA87L"? The wiper arms on my 72 240 are marked "408 TRICO 55-R" and "409 TRICO 55-L". Didn't find posts on this topic, after doing a search. Thanks
  7. Thanks for the re-alignment tip! The Z Therapy DVD also advocates mix-n-match to find a pair of domes/pistons which have similar drop test measurements.
  8. Cool, now I know what those things are called! One carb is missing the nubbies, the other isn't. I'm trying to build the best two carbs out of four, so yes when I did the piston drop test on all four domes and pistons, I decided to use the pair that were the closest, which means that one carb body doesn't have it's original dome/piston. Are you confirming that there should be no binding between the needle and the nozzle, regardless of piston position?
  9. Reassembling a pair of 3-screw round tops for my 72 240z. Trying to get the jet nozzles to go fully in smoothly, until they touch the mixture screw. With the piston-jet needle installed, the jet nozzle binds with several millimeters to go. When I manually retract the piston-jet needle, the jet nozzle smoothly slides in fully without binding. I've rolled the needles on a flat plate and they're not bent. Is this an issue or am I over thinking this? Searched the forums prior to posting, didn't find anything. Regards
  10. I've seen posts about the Walmart EverStart Maxx, however from the Walmart website: Brand EverStart Maxx Manufacturer Part Number MAXX-24 Assembled Product Weight 44.4 lbs Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H) 10.20 x 6.80 x 8.90 Inches So is the published spec wrong or are the current production batteries now taller than your battery? Guess I have to go to Walmart and measure one. Thanks for the picture!
  11. Please tell me the manufacturer and model number of your battery.
  12. https://zcarsource.com/battery-frame-hardware-kit-240z-260z-280z-70-78-new Was able to bust it loose. Check out the contact area on the valve cover and the battery terminal. Last image is the aftermarket battery hold-down that broke.
  13. So I'm looking for a new battery, after a battery failure. Was taking R hand corners aggressively then the rubber aftermarket battery hold-down failed, sending the group 24 battery sliding L until the positive terminal welded itself to the polished valve cover. Instant electrical death, main fuse popped, no smoke or fire. AAA towed it home but I had to walk as you can't ride in the truck anymore. Bought a stock battery kit, with the tray and the factory hold-down bracket. Dead battery current production replacement is now 9", or I'd just get another one. Shopping for battery and only finding group 24 batteries that are 9"/228mm in height. The tallest battery the hold-down bracket will accommodate is 8.25"/210mm. Group 24 batteries are all acceptable for length and width. Searched the forums for battery height related posts, found none. tldr: Looking for a recommendation for a battery that will fit the stock hold-down bracket and battery tray dimensional limitations. Regards 71 240Z, San Hozay, California
  14. My issue was the connector on the wiring harness side of the fusible link had a broken off locking tab. The connectors stayed together only via friction and had become disconnected. Couldn't see the disconnect at first as DPO had put a wrap of duct tape around it, in lieu of replacing the broken connector. The consequences of having that fusible link fail while on a road trip are so high that I bought a new spare fusible link. Also bought a new wiring harness side blade and plastic shell. Didn't need to replace the blade, which is 8+mm in width, but I did have to destroy the old plastic connector shell to install the new shell. I got these from Banzai Motor Works www.zzxdatsun.com $15 for the WH03 fusible link and $7.50 for the WH03/05 connector. Hope this helps.
  15. With enough heat and squirting with penetrant, got the old weak motor out of the rubber housing, after extracting the rubber housing from the reservoir. First installed the new MSA motor into the rubber housing, then tried to install that assembly onto the reservoir; not possible. Removed the motor, installed the rubber housing onto the reservoir, THEN pushed the motor into the housing. Success. Need to re-align the metal squirt tubes so the washer fluid sprays through the valence slots. Also need a tiny hose clamp (or maybe safety wire) for the passenger side washer fluid tubing (new tubing), so all the fluid sprays into the squirt tubes instead of soaking the firewall. Thanks for all the suggestions!
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