chaseincats

I'm sure installing it isn't all that difficult - I just had a hell of a time finding a new one...

Ah that topic - I believe it was from a mid-90s pathfinder too

Do you know how long ago that thread was? That might be tough to find

Right, so why wouldn't plugging the metal tank line into the ported line that goes into the throttlebody work?

I'm trying to eliminate all gas smell both in and outside the cabin

Doesn't having the carbon canister connected properly create a semi-vacuum leak? The seal is indeed bad in the vacuum portion of the canister.

I shouldn't be able to smell the gas vapors if it is the tank though since it is isolated from the cabin I'd think. One of my hoses has to have a rip somewhere but I can't find it. The frustrating part is the only time I can smell it is when I'm driving or if I blow hard in the charcoal canister metal line...

Sorry, I should have said the top vacuum operated portion no longer holds vacuum. Would wiring it that way work?

This hit me today. Why not plug the metal line in the engine bay that comes from the vapor tank into the t-connector that the carbon canister's vacuum actuator outlet ordinarily would plug into? The vapors would still be going into the intake manifold, just through a different opening. Since I can't find the gasoline smell location from the vapor tank area, getting the vapor tank venting system working is the next best thing but since my carbon canister doesn't hold vacuum, that's how I came to this.

Removing that stuff out of principal or due to it not being used with the old engine?

Here's a dumb, improbable, not going to happen, but question never the less. What would happen if you were somehow able to put an old school engine into a modern car? Would it be able to handle the weight? Would it be running at 5k down the street to get groceries? Could it even move the car? For example, what would happen if you were somehow able to shoehorn an L-series engine into a modern car or SUV? For the purpose of wasting our time on this thread, let's say putting an L-series engine in a 370z and Pathfinder. Would it be able to move the car? Would the clutch be the weak point and slip? etc.

Great news, I fiddled with the adjustable latch under the license plate panel and was able to get it to line up way better by pulling the latch down and to the left. Thanks all

I just went and took a look online - the retaining clips are surprisingly expensive for a little piece of wire...

Yeah, the re-installation was my main concern haha

Is the issue only at the ends (speedometer and transmission connectors) or can the issue be anywhere within the sheath?

Can you do that without removing the speedometer?

That part should be good - I replaced that pinion gear housing/seal a few years back and the cable there looked good - the issue is probably further up the line

A defect would mean a tear in the sheath outside of the cabin?

My speedometer needle always seemed a bit weak in that it moved down/up when you drive over bumps or rough pavement. Is that just how these speedometers are? I have a dash cap on meaning the speedometer can't/won't come out. This is just a general question.

I remember popping the clips off to work on the car a while back and not putting them back on since they were so obnoxious to get out. Message received though

I don't have the clips

Honestly, I feel a bit silly posting this, but I did take a second look today in the light and there were actually 2 of those rubber seals in the plug instead of 1. There was no way that was ever going to make good contact like that - there isn't enough physical space inside the connector for that to happen. That said, I'd rather feel like a doofus than have the car run like it had been and at least now I know all of the other systems are working as intended.

Final update: Culprit found - case closed The weatherstrip (the rubber rectangular gasket that goes inside the efi connector) for cyl1 was working its way out of its mount when the car warmed up and prohibited cyl1's efi connector from fully seating. I noticed that today when I needed to pull over to the side of the road due to the engine (now I know as cyl1) running prohibitively lean on my air/fuel ratio gauge. I found I was unable to push cyl1's injector power cable fully in so I removed that piece of rubber, could plug the connector in firmly, and now the car runs awesome with power throughout the rev-range for the first time in a while. I originally noticed this issue when I pulled the fuel rail to run tests on injector flow and reseated the rubber piece back in the connector - but I guess it had other ideas. I have permanently removed that piece and may pull the others to prohibit this in the future. Thanks for all of your help with this -chase

Interesting idea and good point with the 39 psi

Update: the car is running great now. Here is what I did and found: New plugs did not help (car lean running issue continued after installing these) Pulled new plugs from the head and watched them spark - spark level was identical Measured HT wire resistance - all within spec Went through the fuel injection bible and confirmed all components are within factory spec when measured through the main ECU connector Fuel pressure at 32 not 36 changed engine bay fuel filter but did not re-measure fuel pressure Pulled the fuel rail, put all 6 injectors in separate cups and measured the fuel output volume while cranking All injectors output identical volume with identical spray pattern (injectors are ~1.5 years old) Cleaned injector connector teeth - cylinder 1's injector teeth were green but this did not affect injected volume I did notice a couple small black pieces in the injector inlet size so it may have been the fuel filter which was odd since it was only about 2 years old. I will change the tank to fuel pump filter this week although it looks clean