z8987
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Posts posted by z8987
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57 minutes ago, z8987 said:I’m sorry if this is redundant. The sporting clay shooting season got in the way of me working on the car. I’m still having some problems with the brakes, but I have a plan for that. The tires are in pretty bad shape. After sitting for 15 years all the tires have flat spots on them. I can’t get up to speed at all. The brakes work but I won’t take the car out of my neighborhood.
I’m looking for some tires that will fit the stock rims. They don’t need to be great tires, as I think I will buy new rims in the future. For now I’m not sure where I’m going with the car, but I need tires. Can somebody give me an idea of a good tire that will fit my needs.
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I’m sorry if this is redundant. The sporting clay shooting season got in the way of me working on the car. I’m still having some problems with the brakes, but I have a plan for that. The tires are in pretty bad shape. After sitting for 15 years all the tires have flat spots on them. I can’t get up to speed at all. The brakes work but I won’t take the car out of my neighborhood.
I’m looking for some tires that will fit the stock rims. They don’t need to be great tires, as I think I will buy new rims in the future. For now I’m not sure where I’m going with the car, but I need tires. Can somebody give me an idea of a good tire that will fit my needs.
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Is there any advantage in leaving it all original?
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11 hours ago, Patcon said:Wheel pictures?
All the wheels are the same as this one. The tires are shot and need to be replaced. I drove the car the other day, and after sitting for 15 years the tires have flat spots. I'm looking to restore these wheels and put new tires on. Should I just have the wheels powder coated? I'm not going to do anything until I'm sure of what's the best thing to do. What about the hub caps, they also need some work?
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11 hours ago, Patcon said:Wheel pictures?
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I'm still working on my brakes, can carburetors. The car seems to be running pretty good, it takes some time to warm up, but once it's warm all seems to be well. I live in a neighborhood that is pretty confined, so I went around the block today. The brakes will stop the car, but they need some work.
I noticed the car ran like it had square tires, possibly the results of sitting for 15 years. I need to put new tires on it, and I'm thinking about restoring the wheels. What's the best way to restore the wheels? Thank you.
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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:This might be a bit out there but if the cause isn't found soon it might be worth a look, I disassemble all new hydraulic parts I purchase because I have found more than a few things wrong over the years, muck, grease, rust, sometimes the seals are installed backward or springs missing. I hope you don't have to go that far.
I'm willing to go that far. When ever I buy a new gun, I always dismantle it and clean it. I've found something in just about every gun, with the exception of an H&K pistol. Those Germans
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10 hours ago, Persimmon240 said:I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?
Checked that. sounds like you were not the first to do that
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17 minutes ago, Patcon said:Do the rear drums have any lip on the inside edge?
I'm going back to blocking off the front as suggested, and I'll check on the lip. I don't think there is one, but I'll look. I'll be out shooting all day. This retirement is wearing me out. 🙂
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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:And the rubber flex lines are new and not bulging out when you press the brake?
Yes, new rubber hoses. My guess is they are not bulging. That's something I can check, but since they are new, they should be in good shape.
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2 hours ago, Zed Head said:Do you have the stock drums on the back? Sounds like you need to adjust them. The shoes are too far from the drums. Take the drums off and turn the adjusting wheel that moves the shoes apart until you can barely get each drum back on. Then pull the parking brake handle up and down a few times to get the final automatic adjustment.
Did that!
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Brakes. New booster, in place with master cylinder. All new calipers, brakes everything new with the exception of the old hard lines. The old hard lines were blown out and cleaned of all fluid before installing all the new products. I spoke with Steve at Power Brake Booster Exchange about my booster. According to him my booster needs no further adjustments. We bled the lines today, but the pedal still goes almost all the way to the floor. Here's what I've done.
- I capped the master cylinder and the brake pedal is hard to push on and will not go to the floor - so my guess is that the booster and master cylinder are good.
- connected front brakes to master cylinder, brake feels good,
- connected back brakes, we bled the brakes, a solid flow of fluids but the brake will now go almost all the way to the floor.
Any tricks? One person suggested I open the bleeders and let gravity assist in getting fluids through the system. Sound reasonable, but we have a steady flow at both back brakes. errrrr..
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On 5/9/2019 at 9:15 AM, Carl Beck said:If the vacuum gauge isn't really responding - then it is possible that air is being sucked in somewhere else. With the engine running - spray some carb cleaner around the throttle shafts. If the engine picks up RPM while you are doing that - the throttle shaft bushings are worn and would need to be replaced. Likewise spray some carb cleaner around the gaskets on the carb isolation blocks (between the carb body and the intake manifold -could also be a leaky gaskets.
I have not had the opportunity to try this yet. Focus is brakes today
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I got the oil pan on the car. Lowered it, and removed the valve cover. All the lash pads are in place. This must have been a remnant of a past problem. I'm still having some troubles with the carbs. I'll be checking in on some of the suggestions above. It's doesn't seem to be making much difference when making adjustments. I've been using a vacuum synchronization gauge. The gauge will hardly move when making adjustments. Again, I'll start over with the recommendations above.
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1 minute ago, SteveJ said:Your regional Z club: http://www.zonc.org/
Just got my membership. Joined last night.
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2 minutes ago, sfm6s524 said:In Sacramento you can contact Gary Cook at Vintage Performance, 916-481-1763, 4631 Auburn Blvd.
He vintage races his 240Z, and mainly works on Z's and Mustangs. He can point you in the right direction for a machine shop..
Z8987, notice you're in Elk Grove, CA. So am I. 😉.
Drop by and say hi! I use to have a cobra, was all hooked up with the cobra folks. I was considering getting another one, but I came across this, so now I need to get hooked up with the z folks.
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5 hours ago, z8987 said:I adjusted the valves prior to starting the car. I put transmission fluid in the cylinders prior to starting. It sat for quite a few days prior to draining the fluids and refilling. New plugs, but I haven't set the timing. I did put a light on it yesterday, but I'm not sure what to do next. It's been a few years since I've done this type of stuff. I've probably ran the car for close to two hours. No driving, i'be backed it in and out of the garage a few times. I think the transmission is slipping. I have to rev it a little for the car to start to move.
I think I used brake fluid, I used what was recommended on this site.
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23 minutes ago, Zed Head said:Have you given the engine a thorough tuneup? Adjusted valve lash, new spark plugs, set ignition timing? How many minutes of running are on the engine since you got it restarted after sitting for 15 years? Might still be some rusted and gummed up parts in the engine.
I adjusted the valves prior to starting the car. I put transmission fluid in the cylinders prior to starting. It sat for quite a few days prior to draining the fluids and refilling. New plugs, but I haven't set the timing. I did put a light on it yesterday, but I'm not sure what to do next. It's been a few years since I've done this type of stuff. I've probably ran the car for close to two hours. No driving, i'be backed it in and out of the garage a few times. I think the transmission is slipping. I have to rev it a little for the car to start to move.
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After I got the carbs on and used the carb synchronizer tool, when I lifted the piston in the front carb, the engine would almost immediately die. When performing the same thing on the rear carb, it wouldn’t kill the engine as quickly, does this provide any valuable information?
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13 hours ago, Zed Head said:Not clear what you're bummed about. Old parts in the oil pan are pretty common. People find all kinds of things in there.
I’m not familiar with this type of a problem. I was thinking it’s a big deal. Based on your comments I’m not so worried. I’ll clean up the oil pan reinstall and move up to the top to look for missing parts. 😀
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My goal was to be driving this thing within the week. Kind of bummed right now.
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2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:Not really clear where you're at on the project. Could be that somebody already rebuilt the head and those parts are from the past.
How does the head and valve train look? I haven't looked back through the 7 pages.
Good point. I can check to see if all the lash pads are in place.
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Am I looking at a rebuild? Any recommendations in Northern California ?
I've been looking for a project
in Open S30 Z Discussions
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Got tires at the local shop. Good to go.