moozieman

The first video depicts my manifold issue. The second was so you could hear the exhaust. The car isn’t driving. It’s stationary right now. No transmission fluid at the moment. I’m in the process of getting it road ready

Posted a couple vids. This is the current status. Had a bit of an inconsistent rumble to it.??‍♂️

0098F779-1FB2-431F-920C-FBF9E1305E6D.MP4 DD64D5B8-56A8-461B-B435-3F8A2C11C09F.MOV

It has 121k on it but I honestly don’t know the history too much.

Wait. Wouldn't a leaky manifold gasket result in low compression? I'd have to put everything back together anyway to test compression.

Rlly? I guess that would save me some time. I'll do that.

I've been tackling a lot of problems with my 78' 280z's inconsistent idle and timing, etc... I recently ran some seafoam through my system to try to clean any gummed up lines or pathways that might be causing issues with fuel. I actually ended up discovering something else that makes me feel that my issues might be due to vacuum leaks. I found white smoke that appears to be leaking from in between the intake manifold and the engine block. I'd imagine that this could pose a significant cause for my vacuum issue. I plan to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to replace that gasket and hope that might solve my issues. But I started thinking... if i'm going so far as to disassemble the entire side of the engine block to replace a manifold gasket, it'd probably be the ideal time to go one step further and replace the head gasket as well. I found instructions for disassembly, but i'm a beginner and was hoping to get some advice... Once i have the head removed to replace the gasket, is there anything else I should plan on doing? As far as upkeep or cleaning inside? Like I said, I'm new to this, so if there's anything more I might be able to do, I'd like to do it now while everything is apart. Lemme hear your thoughts.. Thanks!

Okay. Just curious. I may try to fabricate my own if I can get proper dimensions.

On a completely different note, why tf do the 240s and 280s have different floor pans??

Oh I understand. Dang their part collection it getting thin! Ig they don’t carry door skins anymore either!?

Looking for a lower half patch of my 280z front fender. Found a site that’s slightly cheaper than Z car depot. Anyone ever used TABCO before? Trustworthy?

Ok. Might just have to do that. Might also take a look at that ford taurus afm boot. Thanks for everyone's help!

Im not too concerned about looks or anything. Essentially what I want to do is get a new afm boot. Just getting a generic non-ported boot will obviously be easier and cheaper than finding a nissan one or modifying something myself. If I can make use of the non-ported boot, I have to figure out what to do with that hose that had originally been connected there. If i'm understanding correctly, that small port on the afm boot is supposed to go to the valve cover opening. Is that correct? If I disconnect and close the port off, that hose has to go somewhere.

I guess my question is what exactly I need to do to be able to use that closed afm boot. I’m not understanding something. Haha. ?

I've seen people take the hose off the valve cover and replace with a small filter. Can I do that and be able to use a closed boot?

I have a 78' btw

Ok. If its not 100% necessary, I might just get rid of it. How would I re-route that hose?

doesnt there need to be a small port for the other hose that connects to the middle of the boot?

I might end up making use of a 3" to 2.75" exhaust coupler. We'll see.

good call. I'll look into it!

Interesting. Thanks for the link! Any idea for how i might make that spacer ring? Or do I need to find someone with a lathe?

I'm sure many of you Z owners are familiar with the dry-rotted rubber on the afm boot which can create a huge vacuum leak. I'd like to get a new boot, but some are over $100. Are there any alternatives out there? Maybe one from another vehicle that fits? Or do I just need to bite the bullet? Haha. Thanks!

I believe that I have successfully grounded that wire. However when I go through your steps, I dont see all the wires that you are talking about. For whatever reason, I'm seeing what appears to be W11 on that relay connector. Is that correct?

So how do I go about finding this disconnection?

Had trouble prying those tabs open. Should i just use a screwdriver? I was concerned about all the old brittle plastic just crumpling.