mbz

Just reading up on the EGR valve, and I can't help but wonder if this all goes back to what was mentioned wayyyyyyy back at the start of the thread, maybe it's a bad water temperature switch?

The brakes do not feel mushy (like pressing a marshmallow), nor too hard (like pressing a brick). They feel "normal". Brake fluid levels are good. I did disconnect the vacuum line to the brake cylinder a few weeks back while engine was running and the engine idle went up very, very high, and the idle adjust screw was able to adjust the idle.

Yes I understand, and am starting by checking for vacuum reading from the intake manifold that goes to the vacuum line of the FRP.

Not yet, however that will be on the list for diagnostics tomorrow morning. I'm reading up on the EGR valve tests in the manual now.

So, at this point the next step is to pick up a vacuum gauge and check the intake manifold vacuum going to the FPR? I think their vacuum gauge is like $15 bux, then 20% off. If so, I'll be at harbor Freight first thing in the morning. I'm going to go sulk and watch Barret-Jackson replay from earlier today.

Yes on March 31st tests: 4). Fuel Pressure while Sucking on the vacuum hose from the FPR = 40 psi [PRESSURE DOWN] However... I was just sucking on the vacuum line of the FPR when the pressure dropped. I did not test vacuum coming from manifold. So, at this point the next step is to pick up a vacuum gauge and check the intake manifold vacuum going to the FPR? If so, I'll be at harbor Freight first thing in the morning.

I thought someone else was Captain Obvious! ?

A leak in the intake manifold (like the gasket...?)

That may very well be the case (possibly adding 1-2 psi to the readings), however it still doesn't account for the running rich issue (too much fuel, not enough air). I can take the pressure gauge out the fuel line and see what happens tomorrow morning.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html

I have not. Would that be just a matter of connecting a vacuum gauge to the manifold where the FPR vacuum line connects?

OK, good news first... got the new FPR installed. It was much easier than I thought it would be (took less than 15 minutes) thanks to the hose grip pliers from harbor freight. [emoji3] The bad news is that it didn’t fix the problem. [emoji22] Fuel pressure with only fuel pump on is 40 psi (should be 36 psi). Fuel pressure while idling is 40 psi as well. Same problem as before, engine idles rough, lots of dark smoke from exhaust. Took oil cap off and idle is stable, but fuel pressure is still high = 40 psi (see photo). If I go WOT engine cuts out at 3000 rpm, stumbles back to idle and either stabilizes at 900 rpm, or it dies. Then same symptoms present, have to wait about 30-45 minutes to start the engine again because it is flooded. Stumped again..... [emoji848]

The 240 Z from Thursday actually came to a total of $36,850 after commission.

That may very well be what the auction market wants in these cars.... old Z car styling (1970-1976) with modern updates and bigger engines. The one in January at the Scottsdale auction that sold for big money was also a resto-mod.

Ugh...! Don't get me started on California! Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!

The green 1975 2+2 sold for $30,800 And the red 1975 resto-mod went for $37,950 ..... wow.?

So do you think 100 PSI fuel injection hose is sufficient? Or should I go for the 225 PSI hose?

Yes the hoses all appear to be in very good condition and like I stated earlier in thread, the PO's Mechanic's notes indicate that the fuel injectors, o-rings, gaskets, risers and hoses on fuel rail were all recently replaced. This is what I see upon visual inspection as well. So I concur that there is no need to take apart the fuel rail to service parts other than FPR. Really good tip.... I hadn't considered sliding the hoses further past where they are supposed to sit when clamped in place. This would make it easier to replace the FPR while fuel rail is in place. I'll pick up a couple feet of high pressure FI hose before the weekend, just to be sure I have extra on hand if needed. I think taking the old FPR off should be fairly straight forward, as I am planning on cutting off the hose on the right side of the FPR (closest to windshield) to make removal easier, and then just replace the cut hose with a new piece.

OK so I have the replacement fuel pressure regulator in hand. It appears to be suitable upon visual inspection. Regarding installation, I'm thinking I should probably take off the entire fuel rail rather than just trying to swap it out in place. Thoughts on this....? (Pros - Cons)

Thank you for the offer, but I would pass on the used one if only for the reason that it is more prone to a shorter life-span. I have other issues with the car that need my attention, the FPR / running rich issue was an unexpected diversion from my original resto game plan.

I looked up that part number, and while it is for a Datsun Z car fuel pressure regulator, I cannot match the part number with any known part numbers for the FPR on a 1976 280z. The corresponding part numbers I could find are: Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 13531260789, 22670N09800, 22670N4200, 22670N9800, 22670N9801 Does it look like this...?

Was actually just watching your video on compression test. Between your videos and Restoration For Beginners videos, there is just about everything you need to know about these cars online! I'll see if I can add to the library as I do some work on my Z, but I'm terrible at producing videos so don't hold me to that.

Yeah, right? I did some calling around this morning and found that the OEM part no longer exists. Apparently it's been out of production / not available from Nissan for about 6+ years or so. Called a few places looking for NOS or an unsold OEM part that had been sitting on a shelf, no such luck. It seems that the only way to get one of these is the 3rd party Standard Intermotor part, which is what I ordered from RockAuto, but they sent me that used, janky looking part. It's been ordered from another supplier and should be here in a day or so. (hopefully) Will let you know when it arrives. Great video above, I think I have a pretty good grasp of this part of the FI system after this crash course!

So, here's the part that RockAuto delivered after waiting for AN ENTIRE WEEK! ? The box was not sealed, torn labels on the outside. It appears to have been a used / returned product. The return fuel line looks like someone just bent it with wrench or something. J - A - N - K - Y ! Does not look legit at all and I'm not comfortable installing this thing in my car. Sending it back for a refund. Going to the local O'Reily today to order the part with the lifetime warranty, hopefully it will only take 2-3 days to get the part. Arrrrrrgh!!!!! Damn Rock Auto!