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hls30.com

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Everything posted by hls30.com

  1. Are you talking about the ZX nuts? They do not have to be staked, but I would replace them with new ones at each removal. Cheep insurance and priceless peace of mind! Will PS still available from the dealer...
  2. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    A beautiful Rally car, an "upscale" neighborhood at a recent big $$$$ car show, major Magazine coverage of your success...You're livin' Large Carl! The IRS just wants their share of your lifestyle! I'd say take it as a complement, but complements are only supposed to bring tears of joy, not mushroomed spindle pin thoughts! Will
  3. I would take the dash...or print the pics from Z home... Will
  4. There were two different dashes in 240Z, early and late-check here: http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/dash.htm A few early 260s had late 240 dashes(or at least I have run across a few), but most had 280Z dashes. Will
  5. 240Z and 280Zs are hls30s 260Zs are Rls30s. Look at your manufacture date to see if you have an early or late car-DS door post. Will
  6. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    For that Price, I would think you could be in the waiting list for a gold medallion winner. Will
  7. Did you put in two Pilot bushings? Will
  8. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Sounds familiar...a beautiful and valuable car with a seller dictating terms of a sale, and limiting buyers to those he approves of, worse yet, hosting a short sale requiring one single form of payment and not accepting one form of payment that is legal for all debts, public and private-yet wanting a 2K deposit via paypal. Turning the car seems to be important until you consider his limitations on the sale. Evidently He doesn't realize Nissan did not actually restore a single car in the program, they modified all of them, No Z came from Japan, or was unloaded off a transport in the 60s or 70s with any Vintage Z program stickers, console plaque, or updates...Unfortunately, these cars don't belong on the Stock Class in a ZCCA show because they are not..."configured exactly as shipped from factory." I think he is soaking a lure... Will
  9. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Outstanding! 20 hours straight...talk about commitment! Will
  10. This is still the easiest way to properly turbo a car. The F*****y did all of the engineering, all you have to do is move all of the components. Because the Engine bay is so similar, there is very little in the way of supplemental engineering to do(basicly you have a few brackets to relocate and/or fabricate). Buying a running donor car and putting them side by side is the easiest way. Buying pieces a part at a time from multiple sources means any part could be suspect if you get it all together and it doesn't work-unless you are really familiar with the systems you are moving, it can be a seriously fast way to frustration. If you have a running car to test and verify parts with, it really helps. A side by side conversion is absolutely the easiest way to do a first time swap-and it is pretty basicly a drop in-but involves everything that is needed to support the running of the engine as well. If I had to do one piece meal, I would get it running on a stand where everything could be r/r easily to make the job as easy as possible, and probably get two of everything supporting the engine-nothing is worse than continually having momentum stopped cold by having to wait to find a good part on a used part project... Will
  11. Personally I have always wanted a whole bunch of different year lugnuts, and here you guys are! Wow, one is even wrapped in aluminium! Seriously, I fell in love with the 240Z when I was a youngster on a school bus, and knew I had to have one of those "devilfish cars". Will
  12. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    SAWEET! Can't wait to see it under power!!! Will
  13. Not me, I've been pulling all of the good stuf I find in good shape. Will
  14. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I have always used one of the feeler gage blades that I don't need. I use a stepped feeler gage, and only need the 8/10 and the 10/12, so the rest are protection for those two, I figure, might as well use the rest for something! insert behind the emblem(cover the edges of the blade with a layer of painters tape to protect the paint, and pull her off! WIll
  15. While not what I would want in the same hemisphere, not the worst I have seen-there is a Catepillar yellow one with a bulldozer front end for a snowplo-air dam. I think it is Australia.... Will
  16. I resemble that remark profusely! Will
  17. Stephen, I'm not sure if your Q was at me, but the dealer has never charged me shipping... Will
  18. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Wow, I swear I haven't been drinking! Looks like the wobbly fingers have struck again! Maybe I would be better off turning on the voice recognition software... Will
  19. Be sure to ask about a discount, I can get them for around $48 at my local dealer(the parts manager is a member of out local Z club, and gives members a healthy discount). Will
  20. They are showing still available from the dealer retailing at $68.35 and coming with the pin. Will
  21. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    You need to look at the engine block-right where it meets the head on the spark plug side, the sive and type of enfine will be stamped into machined flats in this area. Will
  22. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    All 240Zs came with dual carbs-licensed Sus. If yours are in good shape, a tuneup will answer your question with a smile, if not, send the carbs to Ztherapy for either a body exchange or full rebuild, and the smile will be forthcoming! Will PS no noo nooo single carbs bad. dual carbs good, tripples with cam upgrades and more better(no tripples without changing a cam or more internals)!
  23. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Nos versions go for around $500 plus s&H Will
  24. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Sounds like an aftermarket ignition was added and either the tach wiring was not modified for it, or it was not replaced with a later tach. There is a tech article around here from Bambikiller240Z on this... Will
  25. The third one is an factory resistor I believe it is part of the flasher circuit-if you take it out and the blinkers don't flash...put it back Will PS, I would replace the cut up wiring with oem parts so that the factory troubleshooting guides work and are followable. Most of the cut up parts are available at the pick and pull, if you have trouble finding them in your area, I am sure some members(myself included ) would help you find the appropriate pieces as we visit the yards...I probably have most of that in my collection of 280Z parts... Will
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