Jump to content
Remove Ads

hls30.com

Free Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hls30.com

  1. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Carl, I have been using Fiberglast for years-shortly after the owner died,and the wife took over- what a difference she made! They are not the cheepest, but they are the most knowledgeable, and the most willing to share info. Their videos and printed materials are excellent, as are their composit materials. Will.
  2. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    NO! it should be stamped ito the firewall near the Master Vac. The vin should be on the tag one the fenderwell, the ds door post, the dash tag, and the firewall, and all should match! Will
  3. Welcome, enjoy the ride! Will
  4. Or check my gallery-for pictures of the hardware. Will
  5. What he said-to keep the toes of shoes off the door trim panel. Will
  6. Lower front corner of the door trim panel. Will
  7. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    msa and vb and many others cary them. Will
  8. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    You need to swap the tracks. Will
  9. Unfortunately, it is up to you, the DMV in every state your car has been registered in, and how closely you check out the car before you buy it. Will
  10. MY SC Z SC Z KLINA Z SAYBYZ WTZ ZEEOOW ZGOBYE ZGOBYBY ZCAT ZUL8R LONGONZ ZCREAMER P D Q Z WTFWTZ RARE Z FEELUCKY INCREDIZ Will
  11. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    We need to see more to answer that properly. The more pictures, the better your answer will be. Will
  12. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Here is a full cap-looks good to me!
  13. With out the bumper strips, painted looks good, put them on, and I think the black is still better. Will
  14. I have seen info on both leaving rough and polishing, but never the difference between only those two options. From a purely aerodynamic standpoint I can see a benefit in non-polished runners in not allowing a laminar flow to form(as well as keeping the fuel suspended), but from another angle, I can see a benefit in smoothing the rough casting/core edges to lower drag. Any real numbers out there? One of the things I want to try is smoothing(not polishing) the interior of the intake(and giving all of the runners a uniform cross-sectional size and volume) and installing a variable vane vortex generator just ahead of the mouth of each runner . This would generate a uniform turbulance to break up the laminar flow, and allow(from the "tornado" web page) a greater volume of air to pass through the runner. It sounds good anyway! Will
  15. Leave the spoiler black against the silverpaint, chrome bumper and rubber strips, it looks perfectly at home!!! Will
  16. John, There is a processes called "Extrude Honing" that is used inside the intake manifold to smooth the air path-as I recal it is a couple-three hundred dollars to have done, and it essentially biols down to forcing a high viscosity liquid loaded with abraisives through the intake at very high pressure. Will
  17. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Welcome! I hate to be the one to tell you this, but a Z is not by nature a "no fooling around zone-two seater or not"! Will
  18. I used the Rustoelum gray 2 part epoxy-I did not use the sprinkels-, and it scratches too easily-no floor jack use, but I do scoot heavy boxes around-hence the scratches. Rubber wheeled dollies do no damage. The floor is not slippery when wet with anything buy oil, and it is impervious to solvents. Will
  19. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Welcome back! Glad you went, glad you returned, glad the lack of Vegamite didn't soil the trip! Will
  20. Enrique, That is exactly where I am! Por15 on-and where to go from there! I asked the question to get some help with what to use next. Herculiner was the product I had in mind-for the exact same reasons Ed outlined. I had a spray in liner put in the truck the day after I bought it. I will research a little more before I coat the underside. I have also bought a sound/thermal insulation paint/sealer for the inside of the floors, and made an application if metal ready to be certian that every area been addressed. Will
  21. I am soon to be at the stage where I turn the Z upside down and coat the underside of the floor with Bedliner, rubberized undercoating, or something similar. What areas did those of you who have been here before leave uncoated-what areas need to be left clear mounting-if any? My wondering is due to this synergy: when conventionally undercoarting, the mounting surface are protected from buildup by what ever is mounted to them/undercoating with no suspension (or protection of the mounting areas thereof) will add 1/16"-1/4" to the suspension tollerances. It may be no issue, but I would rather ask and look stupid, than apply it and have to spend a day removing permanent material. Will
  22. hls30.com posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Pictures would help us help you-which we will be glad to do! Will
  23. What can I say that others haven't... More Pictutes! Welcome to the club! Congratulations on you newly found Z! Enjoy the ride! Will
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.